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Archive through June 18, 2010
- Thread starter bdatisman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Jimmy John,
Welcome to you and your 125 Cub!
If the cooling fins aren't plugged up with a former mouse house, a former bee's nest, mud dobber wasps, or just plain grass and gunk - then I'd be wondering if the tiny screen at the fuel tank outlet might not be getting plugged off after it runs some. If the fuel is flowing just fine when it quits, check the coil's temperature. It can get too hot and then stop working until it cools down again.
Ryan Wilke
Welcome to you and your 125 Cub!
If the cooling fins aren't plugged up with a former mouse house, a former bee's nest, mud dobber wasps, or just plain grass and gunk - then I'd be wondering if the tiny screen at the fuel tank outlet might not be getting plugged off after it runs some. If the fuel is flowing just fine when it quits, check the coil's temperature. It can get too hot and then stop working until it cools down again.
Ryan Wilke
Jerry
I have the same problem, I am wondering if it may be the starter/gen as I am getting voltage at s/g but it doesn't turn. switched to a newer style solenoid and it does the same thing, had another auto place check battery and they said it was good so this second time i have had battery checked. I have tried jumping from a charged battery straight to the positive post on s/g but it still does nothing which makes me think it is the s/g, because if you bump the s/g positive terminal with a jumper cable it should spin over.
I have the same problem, I am wondering if it may be the starter/gen as I am getting voltage at s/g but it doesn't turn. switched to a newer style solenoid and it does the same thing, had another auto place check battery and they said it was good so this second time i have had battery checked. I have tried jumping from a charged battery straight to the positive post on s/g but it still does nothing which makes me think it is the s/g, because if you bump the s/g positive terminal with a jumper cable it should spin over.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2007
- Messages
- 220
- displayname
- Aaron Schmidt - Xtreme Motorworks
Hey guys, been a while since I posted - been busy as Charlie mentioned. here are a couple of more pics to oogle and wonder about. Some new stuff coming off the assembly line.
Also Original Decks and Belt Covers, New Cat O - 3 points with multiple lift configurations, and more!
Also Original Decks and Belt Covers, New Cat O - 3 points with multiple lift configurations, and more!
Good mornin from the Great White North eh!
Guys I am going to start to put together the parts for a total rebuild on my 341 and I have a few questions. Can you all gaive me a few pointers I have rebuilt 2 strokes but thhis will be my first Kohler.
1. It looks like I could get by with a .010" overbore but should I get the .020" to be safe?
2. should I put in new valve guides and crank bearings as a matter of course.
3. the big question. are "Stens" build kits up for auction on Ebay quality parts.
4. any common rebuiding issues I need to be aware of?
lots of newby questions
Guys I am going to start to put together the parts for a total rebuild on my 341 and I have a few questions. Can you all gaive me a few pointers I have rebuilt 2 strokes but thhis will be my first Kohler.
1. It looks like I could get by with a .010" overbore but should I get the .020" to be safe?
2. should I put in new valve guides and crank bearings as a matter of course.
3. the big question. are "Stens" build kits up for auction on Ebay quality parts.
4. any common rebuiding issues I need to be aware of?
lots of newby questions
Barry -
1) If it'll bore .010 then why go .020 , that'll take away one more future rebuild.
2) Valve guides , if yours are worn past spec, crank bearings , yes.
3) Stens on ebay ... does the seller send a warranty with them ? If not our sponsors sell STENS.
4) Balance Gears are the only BIG topic on rebuilds. Many hate them and remove them.
1) If it'll bore .010 then why go .020 , that'll take away one more future rebuild.
2) Valve guides , if yours are worn past spec, crank bearings , yes.
3) Stens on ebay ... does the seller send a warranty with them ? If not our sponsors sell STENS.
4) Balance Gears are the only BIG topic on rebuilds. Many hate them and remove them.
BARRY - I agree with everything KEN says.
If you can get cyl. wear corrected, Taper & out-of-round fixed with only .010" O/S save the extra .010" for another rebuild in twenty yrs.
I've never replaced valve guides but know some people who have. They have to be installed "Correctly", reamed to size after being pressed in. And valve seats ground concentric to the new guides per the spec's too.
I've NEVER heard of one of those huge roller main bearings going bad in a Kohler. Never replaced one either.
I've used STENS parts, but for a real "Working Tractor engine" I use Kohler parts. And it's always recommended to deal with this forum's sponsors. They make this forum available, give good deals, and will be around in the future.
And not to stir up old "Discussions", those balance gears Ken refers to make nice paperweights for your desk.
It's also better to have the engine "hot-tanked" to really clean the engine inside & outside before starting to reassemble it. And to install all new seals & gaskets, points, points pushrod, condensor, spark plug, and clean & rebuild the carb. And have both the Kohler engine manual and IH service manual available for reference when assembling the engine.
Basic hand tools will suffice for most of the work. Things like a ring compressor, valve spring compressor, feeler gauges, flywheel/harmonic balancer/gear puller, maybe a caliper or mic help. I normally use two torque wrenches, a 0-75#/ft for all small fasteners like head & rod cap bolts, and a bigger 0-250#/ft for the flywheel nut.
LOTS of clean shop towels, cleaning solvent, assembly grease/lube, and mounting the engine block to an engine stand makes assembly easier too.
If you can get cyl. wear corrected, Taper & out-of-round fixed with only .010" O/S save the extra .010" for another rebuild in twenty yrs.
I've never replaced valve guides but know some people who have. They have to be installed "Correctly", reamed to size after being pressed in. And valve seats ground concentric to the new guides per the spec's too.
I've NEVER heard of one of those huge roller main bearings going bad in a Kohler. Never replaced one either.
I've used STENS parts, but for a real "Working Tractor engine" I use Kohler parts. And it's always recommended to deal with this forum's sponsors. They make this forum available, give good deals, and will be around in the future.
And not to stir up old "Discussions", those balance gears Ken refers to make nice paperweights for your desk.
It's also better to have the engine "hot-tanked" to really clean the engine inside & outside before starting to reassemble it. And to install all new seals & gaskets, points, points pushrod, condensor, spark plug, and clean & rebuild the carb. And have both the Kohler engine manual and IH service manual available for reference when assembling the engine.
Basic hand tools will suffice for most of the work. Things like a ring compressor, valve spring compressor, feeler gauges, flywheel/harmonic balancer/gear puller, maybe a caliper or mic help. I normally use two torque wrenches, a 0-75#/ft for all small fasteners like head & rod cap bolts, and a bigger 0-250#/ft for the flywheel nut.
LOTS of clean shop towels, cleaning solvent, assembly grease/lube, and mounting the engine block to an engine stand makes assembly easier too.
Dennis - No you didn't agree with everything. I say change the main crank bearing.
You never know how much it may have been ran at a bad angle starving it for oil , or what crap has been in the oil over the years with wear and l-o-n-g oil changes.
When I use to rebuild my SB Chevy's I'd replace everything that I could afford , so it still carries over to the Kohlers.
I had to give him short quick answers 'cause I was watching GEARS on tv and they had a '69 Forward Cab <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> in the shop and he's putting a 600 horse 1300 ft pound torque DuraMax and re-worked Allison in it ... I'm in luv ...
You never know how much it may have been ran at a bad angle starving it for oil , or what crap has been in the oil over the years with wear and l-o-n-g oil changes.
When I use to rebuild my SB Chevy's I'd replace everything that I could afford , so it still carries over to the Kohlers.
I had to give him short quick answers 'cause I was watching GEARS on tv and they had a '69 Forward Cab <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> in the shop and he's putting a 600 horse 1300 ft pound torque DuraMax and re-worked Allison in it ... I'm in luv ...
KEN - I saw STACY & Gearz when he first got that Binder running. I'm not a real big fan of his actually. I forget the CID but am pretty sure it had a HUGE V-8, 450-549 CID. I just heard a couple months ago that IH made a 605 cid gas V-8 for industrial purposes decades ago. If Stacy knew what he was doing he'd put a DT-466 in that Binder. I'm sure HYPERMAX could loan him an engine. That would be more like a 2500 HP transplant.
It really doesn't take much oil to keep those roller main bearings in a Kohler happy. The rod bearing or rod itself will fail L-O-N-G before those mains start to suffer. They aren't real expensive. There's other parts like camshaft & lifters I'd replace if they showed signs of wear before I'd spend the money on those ball bearings. I ALWAYS clean & inspect them before I reuse them. You know, get all the oil off them and spin them up with compressed air!
Now just so you ALL know, We discussed that a couple days ago here, and that is the QUICKEST WAY TO RUIN A BALL/ROLLER BEARING.
It really doesn't take much oil to keep those roller main bearings in a Kohler happy. The rod bearing or rod itself will fail L-O-N-G before those mains start to suffer. They aren't real expensive. There's other parts like camshaft & lifters I'd replace if they showed signs of wear before I'd spend the money on those ball bearings. I ALWAYS clean & inspect them before I reuse them. You know, get all the oil off them and spin them up with compressed air!
I'll be sure to check out what our sponcers have to be sure. I have been burnt on Ebay a few too many times.
Great tips and help here guys! I'm looking forward to getting started, I just want to make sure I have every I might need as it is a pain to get stuff across the border these days.
I'm off the open up the cottage and will be away from the PC for a few days. Please keep the suggestions coming and I will be checking in once I get back.
Barry
Great tips and help here guys! I'm looking forward to getting started, I just want to make sure I have every I might need as it is a pain to get stuff across the border these days.
I'm off the open up the cottage and will be away from the PC for a few days. Please keep the suggestions coming and I will be checking in once I get back.
Barry
Dennis - I've held off as long as I could BUT since you brought it up again ... I've been doing bearings since '72 and I've never killed a set of bearings ! Besides doing the hay wagons and other wheels on the farm (6 tractors,haybalers,rakes,corn drill...) I worked several years in a garage doing road tractors and my autos. I've always cleaned old bearings in a parts cleaner and "spun'em up" with air to get the old pieces of grease out. On bearings that I repacked , none ever came back as needing replaced.
KEN - I clean ball & roller bearings in my parts washer too, and I blow them off with compressed air but I do not let them spin up to high speeds. I keep my thumb on them and only let them spin ahead a few balls or rollers at a time. I try to be careful anymore what I say on the internet anymore. Lots of people working on this old equipment just don't have the decades of experience keeping OLD stuff running like some of Us do.
You have to get bearings clean & dry so you can inspect them properly.
Years ago an elec. motor mfg. based in Milw. but the plant located in S. Carolina, I was dealing with asked if We ever had issues with the armature shaft bearings in any elec. motors we used in our chemical processing equip. There were three motors on each machine, one large 20-40 HP motor from one mfg, and two small 2-3 HP motors from a different mfg. Evidently they had tried some other spec. or style of bearing and just the force of the armature trying to beat up & down without the shaft turning "Brinnelled" the inner & outer races which caused them to fail in a few hours. Spinning dry bearings can cause brinnelling or spalling of the surfaces the balls or rollers run on. Most tapered roller bearings are ruined by running them too tight and they over-heat. I've been guilty of that more than once.
You have to get bearings clean & dry so you can inspect them properly.
Years ago an elec. motor mfg. based in Milw. but the plant located in S. Carolina, I was dealing with asked if We ever had issues with the armature shaft bearings in any elec. motors we used in our chemical processing equip. There were three motors on each machine, one large 20-40 HP motor from one mfg, and two small 2-3 HP motors from a different mfg. Evidently they had tried some other spec. or style of bearing and just the force of the armature trying to beat up & down without the shaft turning "Brinnelled" the inner & outer races which caused them to fail in a few hours. Spinning dry bearings can cause brinnelling or spalling of the surfaces the balls or rollers run on. Most tapered roller bearings are ruined by running them too tight and they over-heat. I've been guilty of that more than once.
Dennis<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I try to be careful anymore what I say on the internet anymore.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Yeah I had to quit commenting on wearing underwear for a week then turning them inside out and wearing them for another week ... Fruit of the Loom sales were dropping ...
I try to be careful anymore what I say on the internet anymore.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Yeah I had to quit commenting on wearing underwear for a week then turning them inside out and wearing them for another week ... Fruit of the Loom sales were dropping ...
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Well I had two issues with my 70. Overheating and an electrical probelem causing the voltage regulator to smoke. I know they are unrelated so I pulled field wire to stop the contacts from burning when I pressed my start button and concentrated on the overheating.
I replaced the points and condenser and used the static timing procedure Matt had posted. Next I replaced the head and gasket and this morning I retorqued. The 70 is mowing very strong without any signs of the original overheating issue. Now to tackel the electrical problem.
I replaced the points and condenser and used the static timing procedure Matt had posted. Next I replaced the head and gasket and this morning I retorqued. The 70 is mowing very strong without any signs of the original overheating issue. Now to tackel the electrical problem.
those main bearings are about 40 bucks a piece. I had a 12 horse last year that had a noise in it, I still wonder if the guy should have ponyed up that money. Wasn't my checkbook, not my decision. I still think it has a noise in it.
(yes, I checked the cam end play). <font size="-2">stuff like that noise bugs me</font>
(yes, I checked the cam end play). <font size="-2">stuff like that noise bugs me</font>
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Don: Better to have to quit because of the heat than the cold. Won't the snow from your garage roof be a problem? Looking good! (And moveable, if necessary).
Loaders make good temporary attachment points. Had to replace a pulley on JEANNE's clothesline and stretch the sucker back into place:
And... I've got a line on a nearby 169 w/54" mower deck that's for sale.
(Not the one in Mapleton under the 5th wheel camper)
Loaders make good temporary attachment points. Had to replace a pulley on JEANNE's clothesline and stretch the sucker back into place:
And... I've got a line on a nearby 169 w/54" mower deck that's for sale.
(Not the one in Mapleton under the 5th wheel camper)
