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Archive through June 09, 2011
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Wayne - I caught that message about checking my profile.
Jeff - thanks for the info narrowing down about when IH changed the location of the serial number tag to the side of the frame from the rearend housing (between Feb and May 1974).
Just in case others would like to check I thought I'd post the pic from my profile but it seems to big so I have to post a reduced size. I'll also post a pic of the serial tag itself and what the tractor looked like when I first picked it up. FWIW, I picked up the basic 169 frame with the engine at a junk yard in CT. The pic of it without the engine is when it was sitting under my deck (and did for about 10 years) until I finally got all the correct parts which was hard before the internet came along. Anyone that wants to see what the tractor looks like now can see a larger pic in my profile.
While I'm at it, does anyone out there do retoration of the info on the serial number tags? The stamped numbers are ok, but the paint on my is terrible and I just don't know what to do. It's almost a shame when you look at the tractor now, and then look at the tag.
And one other thing, there used to be a chart on here so you could verify your tag was for the correct model, or you could verify your tractor was the correct model for the frame you have. It only works for the serial number tags that have a U in the middle, and 7 digits to the left, and 6 digits to the right. I sent one to Charlie not long ago hoping he would add it someplace in his FAQs. It's nice to be able to verify this for your restoration. You obviously don't want to completely restore a 169 and then find out the serial number on the tag, or the frame ID is a model 149 or something else.
Jeff - thanks for the info narrowing down about when IH changed the location of the serial number tag to the side of the frame from the rearend housing (between Feb and May 1974).
Just in case others would like to check I thought I'd post the pic from my profile but it seems to big so I have to post a reduced size. I'll also post a pic of the serial tag itself and what the tractor looked like when I first picked it up. FWIW, I picked up the basic 169 frame with the engine at a junk yard in CT. The pic of it without the engine is when it was sitting under my deck (and did for about 10 years) until I finally got all the correct parts which was hard before the internet came along. Anyone that wants to see what the tractor looks like now can see a larger pic in my profile.
While I'm at it, does anyone out there do retoration of the info on the serial number tags? The stamped numbers are ok, but the paint on my is terrible and I just don't know what to do. It's almost a shame when you look at the tractor now, and then look at the tag.
And one other thing, there used to be a chart on here so you could verify your tag was for the correct model, or you could verify your tractor was the correct model for the frame you have. It only works for the serial number tags that have a U in the middle, and 7 digits to the left, and 6 digits to the right. I sent one to Charlie not long ago hoping he would add it someplace in his FAQs. It's nice to be able to verify this for your restoration. You obviously don't want to completely restore a 169 and then find out the serial number on the tag, or the frame ID is a model 149 or something else.
I finally got the stalling/bucking issue sorted on my 1650. Unbelievable gunk and garbage in the fuel tank and carb bowl, luckily one of the techs where I work does small engine repair and was very helpful with this. Sadly now there is another issue, the charging system is only working at 25%! I fear that it is an alternator issue meaning the motor would have to come out and so ends the tractor. However my tech told me that this could also be the voltage regulator. What is the voltage output from the alternator supposed to be? I know 15 amps but what voltage, he says if he knows this he can diagnose the issue, any help would be appriecated greatly.
Fred
Fred
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
~28VAC across the 2 outside terminals on the VR, ~14-15VDC center terminal to chassis ground. All taken at 3/4-full throttle.
Stator wires should show continuity (unplugged from VR) wire to wire, but not wire to chassis ground.
90+% of the time it's a bad VR....an easy fix.
Stator wires should show continuity (unplugged from VR) wire to wire, but not wire to chassis ground.
90+% of the time it's a bad VR....an easy fix.
Dennis- Dave here with the 122 clutch issue. Well I went out last night prepared to do battle with the old girl. First started with a putty knife and a small hammer. I tapped gently between the clutch disc and the front pressure plate in several places as I rotated it. Finally, “pop!” the disc broke free! That was it- We’re driving again with a functional clutch. Think I’ll park with the flip down brake lever from now on. Now what do you know about balancing air cooled BMW motorcycle carbs?? Thanks again! Dave
DAVE - That's great news! Do you park your CC outside? Normally I park all my stuff inside but the old CC 70 sat out for a few days while SON & I worked on his pickup and it got rained on once. First time I've EVER had a clutch stick. Just haven't had time to mess with it.
Sorry, I've never been around a BMW motorcycle. Played with a couple Honda's, a 125 CC Harley-Davidson made by Amerachi, a '73 RD-350 Yamaha, and a '73 250 CC OSSA Six Day Replica enduro bike. Of them all I wish I had the OSSA back. It is rare enough to be worth about TRIPLE what it sold for new. And I paid $100 for it in 1983.
Sorry, I've never been around a BMW motorcycle. Played with a couple Honda's, a 125 CC Harley-Davidson made by Amerachi, a '73 RD-350 Yamaha, and a '73 250 CC OSSA Six Day Replica enduro bike. Of them all I wish I had the OSSA back. It is rare enough to be worth about TRIPLE what it sold for new. And I paid $100 for it in 1983.
Dennis- No 122 doesnt park outside normally, she has been caught out in the rain earlier in the season. She's a worker, not a looker. I just don't like the ripped seat getting wet cause then my pants get wet! Sounds like a nice collection of past bikes. I've had the Beemer since 1994- 1986 R80RT 105k miles, but since children, havent done that much riding in the last few years... Dave
Eric Thomas - Carbs are not my favorite either - But the Carbs on our Cub Cadets are rather simple !!! Plus the info from this website is outstanding!
I can tell you I'd rather tear most any other part before I have to mess with a Carb but from what I've learned here on thie website has helped me rebuilt 5 or so different carbs. What I'm saying is I thing you can do it.
Check the FAQs, search for carb things, find Matt Gonitske's info on carbs, there lotsa info to find.
I can tell you I'd rather tear most any other part before I have to mess with a Carb but from what I've learned here on thie website has helped me rebuilt 5 or so different carbs. What I'm saying is I thing you can do it.
Check the FAQs, search for carb things, find Matt Gonitske's info on carbs, there lotsa info to find.
-where exactly is the serial number located on an IH cub cadet 86? I haven't yet found one while looking over the whole tractor??
-Also how do you tighten the brakes on an 86 mine are very loose and it doesn't stop on a dime like it should.
Thanks
-Also how do you tighten the brakes on an 86 mine are very loose and it doesn't stop on a dime like it should.
Thanks
mgwin
Well-known member
Jeff Upton,
Super Job on that cub! Can't wait to see it with the decals.
Super Job on that cub! Can't wait to see it with the decals.
Jeff U.-
I like that white gearbox. I think I might copy that with the 147 I have but haven't gotten around to yet (accept the electris lift Charlie rebuilt). I haven't even heard it run. I was thinking of dedicating the 147 to the #1 tiller I have here. It'll be part of the garden brigade.
Nice job...be sure to let is see the decal work as well.
I like that white gearbox. I think I might copy that with the 147 I have but haven't gotten around to yet (accept the electris lift Charlie rebuilt). I haven't even heard it run. I was thinking of dedicating the 147 to the #1 tiller I have here. It'll be part of the garden brigade.
Nice job...be sure to let is see the decal work as well.
Wayne & Jeff,
147's make great tiller tractors!
147's make great tiller tractors!
Of course they make great thrower tractors too!
