Archive through February 21, 2011

[mhale]

Hi all,

I bought a nice 72 today. It's set up as a garden tractor and has factory hydro lift plus sleeve hitch. I finally got my first Cub with a hydro lift!! Rear wheels have me stumped. They are bolted to plates that bolt to the hub. Never seen that before. Is this for duel rear wheels? I'll post pictures when I pick it up. It's close to where I live but my truck wouldn't run so I used the car to see it. Paint is good just dirty. I'll wash it and leave it as is. Needs a round gastank which I have. Driveshaft looked good as well as the clutch disk. Clutch pedal return spring is broke. I may have one of those somewhere. All and all a nice tractor. Now my brother and I also have all the 7hp Cubs. Haven't seen many 72s. It'd built in 1969 like my 105. Same age as me.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Okay... I'm going to take the hit on Norm B.'s accident. This is why I try and avoid helping via the internet since I can't be there in person with someone. I can't watch over them and nor can I always remember every detail when typing instructions. So... Norm B., I've already sent out an e:mail to you. I've noticed that you put an ad asking to purchase a complete ported pump. That is up to you however you don't necessarily need one from a 782 or 1811. One from a 149 or 169, 1450 or 1650 will also work.

NOW a lesson for ALL on trying to re-use that damaged part and whether or not it will work. TRUST ME on this one because the same thing has been done at work before. That charge pump won't put out anywhere near the pressure necessary due to the damaged area. Burrs or no burrs the oil will escape and you will end up damaging other areas of the pump trying to prove a point. Again... I've seen this happen firsthand and am NOT trying to raise anyone's ire here. The best bet is to scrap it and simply use it as a reference point and learning experience. Donald T. posted a really nice older style 15U Manual than the one that I have. Use that manual and now everyone knows why I can never really see trying to convert a non ported to a ported either by drilling holes or changing housing parts. ANYTIME when doing a project for the first time please don't rush into things. Study evrything about what you want to do and then proceed with caution and ask ten million questions. It may be the same question asked over and over however it has been asked in a different way each time and it was asked until someone explained the answer so that the individual understands the process completely.

 

[tpennell]

Michael,

Congrats on the 72. Sounds like a nice machine overall.

 

[rtunison]

Marlin, you don't have to take hit on ANYTHING. Your posts are most informative and I've learned a lot from them. Thank You.

I just have to say that if you READ and FOLLOW the steps in the manual that you can work on the hydros with confidence.

Did I mention to keep everything VERY CLEAN from start to finish!

 

[tlanderson]

I'm trying to decide whether the Walbro on my 1650 / K341 is in need of replacement / rebuild.

The main jet over the bowl is not centered - seems pushed to one side. Can't figure out how to get it out, although there is a punch hole on the top of the carb body.

Has anyone seen this?

After 3 carb cleanings, I strongly suspect this to be the cause of my VERY hard starting problems (squeaky clean carb, new magneto, very rich / black puff if it does start).

Before replacement, does anyone suggest a new gasket to the block, or...?

Thanks,

Terry

 

[dfrisk]

TERRY A. - Yes, you have to have a tight seal between the carb and block, I recommend a new gasket and also use the 1/4" thk plastic heat insolator because heat an carb's don't mix. You should use some sort of gasket sealant on the gaskets but NO NOT USE RTV. RTV & gasoline do not mix.

If you do decide to replace the carb I'd look for a used Carter #30 carb. They are more adjustable than most Walbros snce both idle & main fuel adjustments are possible.

I've often wondered how a Kohler would run with a MUKUNI carb, something around 24-26, maybe 28 MM. Instead of only two areas of tuning a Mukuni has FOUR.

 

[sblunier]

Marlin, Norm, Donald,

Let me reiterate my point concerning the damage to the pump.

1) Common non-ported hydros are a dime-a-dozen.
2) There is no difference between a ported and non-ported pump EXCEPT the front plate (that has become damaged).
3) The cost to rebuild a hydro to get it to stop leaking is all in seals and gaskets.
4) There are provisions to check for adequate charge pump pressure.

Those statements made, I will again say, what is Nrom out for trying to use the damaged ported front plate?

Worst case is that he is out his time for the rebuild and partial tractor split and 2 gaskets (cork and front cover). Say the pump makes no pressure and scores every plate and slipper in the main hydro pump......the seals in the case are still OK, and the guts from one of those dime-a-dozen non-ported pumps will replace the bad guts......and when he finds a new front plate the old case with it's new seals is right there. (For that matter, how expensive are the seals anyway???).

Best Case: The pump loses a small portion of it's ability to move oil, but is still within all of the pressure tollerances and therefore serving it's purpose. The gauge will tell you where you are at...good or bad.

In the end, what do you have to lose????? A few $$$ in seals vs. a whole new/used pump????

Is it "right"???? No, we all agree the damaged pump face isn't 100%...but is it completely junk either?????? This is one place where I'd roll the dice, there's not much at stake....

And, while we all preach super cleanliness with hydros, we all know of HORRIBLY abused hydros that never miss a beat.....they are really pretty tough little units.

Don't take any of this personally, it is not intended that way.....just a counter-point to the "standard" answer.

Norm,

Machining the face would be fine, provided the extra depth of the charge pump didn't cause the drive pin to ride on the front face of the charge pump housing.

 

[nbartee]

First of all, thanks to everyone who has helped me in the past and on this problem, and hopefully will help me in the future. I certainly will NOT let Marlin take the rap, it was my fault entirely. All he tried to do was help me and some of you tried to help me salvage my error. Several of you told me to read the manual, including Marlin, but I was in too much of a hurry, didn't use common sense, so it's on me!

This is just a small glitch in my quest and I'll get past it. Besides, a person learns from failure and let me tell ya, in my lifetime, I've learned a lot! I still want to help Marlin with the write-up that Charlie signed us up for. I think it will be a good thing for others and it will help me contribute something to this forum, of which I owe a lot.

Thanks Everyone

 

[ccarney]

Michael Hale

Show us your 72, I've got one too, with hydraulic lift, that I added. Like to see how your wheels are mounted too.

 

[dhess]

I'm now a collector, just got number 2!!!

 

[lpalma]

Daniel,
What a fine looking 107!! I like the seat...you are hooked!!

 

[dtanner]

Norm Bartee

this has given us all something that we can build on. There is a need and we have the answers for others so they don`t have to fail.There is no need for this. I think we can add to the faq a lot more info than what we have now. Its not anyone`s fault not knowing and wanting to move forward as we all do blindly.So now we can move forward and add something to the Faq so others can get all the info they need to do this with out the heart aches .I for one will give what little I know and have learned so far and share that with anyone, If I can help put something together for the FAQ I would be glade to, then we will have a better site to share.since we are so far apart we will need help to assemble the info and put it together so that info will help someone that has to know how to replace seals or what ever . A work instruction is what was used by the company I worked for to explain what was needed to achieve the results needed for the task. We need to open up a place in the sand box and give the pictures and info so some one can put it in an order to enter that info in the FAQ.I have a ported pump here( a spare) that I will take apart and take pictures if that will help.Marlin H has info he can share and I hope he will help put this together also.hopefully Kraig with his confusher skills can put the final post to the FAQ when we have got all we think is needed for info.We can do this !

 

[dtanner]

Daniel Hess

That 107 is a sweet looking tractor.

I can see you having to build a Cub storage area soon lol.

 

[mschutz]

Daniel, that is one nice looking tractor. The deck looks to be in good shape. Good Luck with it. I like them zigzags,

 

[nbartee]

Don & Marlin,

Sounds good to me, I'll be happy to help in any way. I can show you what NOT to do!
I would like to finish my task and will take plenty of pics along the way. Marlin has an excellent write-up that I'll be following & will make notes also. If someone will let me know where to put the pics I think we'll be up & runnin'!

 

[jdiederichs]

Terry, The emulsion tube is meant to be offset in that carb. Do NOT attempt to remove or center it, performance will head south in a hurry.
Look very closely at the float position, check the manual to readjust it. These carbs are very sensitive to float height. Good idea to replace the gasket as you mentioned.

 

[dtanner]

Norm B
I started something in the sand box https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22744/221577.html?1298343076 Cub Cadet hydro information. Please post your pictures and when we get this all collected and in order then the information can be added to the FAQ. Later Don T

 

[mschutz]

Good Morning Don T, I see you fellas have kept things stirred up around here, with Hydros and such. Keep up the good work.

 

[dtanner]

Melody Schutz

Nice to hear from you. how is the trucking going? I think its great that we can help to add more information into the FAQ , so everybody will have what they need to have a great tractor.Charlie sent me an email about decals that he has added to CCS,I know I will get to a refurbish on my 1512 Diesel and now he stocks the new decals

. Today I have to find the points for my 125 engine rebuild so I can finish putting the 12 K back together.since I have my Original and the 125 apart ,I have lots of sanding to do and painting soon. I want to have them both ready to spray at the same time. Well that`s my plan. Later Don T

Denny ,,,,,, you still with us ???

 

[dfrisk]

DONALD - Yep, still here.

MELODY - Yes, KRAIG & I are partial to zig-zag tractors too. Plus a few other's here... (except Art, but He's O-K anyhow ;-))

I'm just reading all the discussion on Norm's hydro. Seeing that I'm so CHEAP, I agree with Steve B., build it up and see how good it works. That nick isn't very big but with warm Hy-Tran under pressure could cause PSI issues for hyd lift but I don't think it would cause enough flow decrease to trash the rest of the hydro.

MARLIN would be the expert here, but I almost wonder if someone GOOD couldn't braze that nick up and resurface the plate. I understand exactly where Marlin is coming from about Sauer-Danfoss reworking those plates in production. I wouldn't do it either, but for a personal tractor it might be cost effective. Looks to me a small surface grinder would be required to resurface it. Not somebody with an angle grinder.