• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through July 12, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Bryan M., I assumed readers of the MTD/CCC section on this website would be reading this forum too...
biggrin.gif
 
Bryan C. -

It's all one forum. It's a different topic. If the topic swings to MTD/CCC here, it will be moved to the correct topic.

We're only concerned with what goes on here at this site...
 
Bryan-

Kind of. I've always disliked that method because it's kind of inaccurate. There are also several variations of that method. Depending on how you hold the ruler you get anything from 3 3/8" to 3 5/8". This thing is foolproof. Here's a picture.
29203.jpg

It has labeled sets of holes for various popular 4- and 5-bolt wheel centers. The labels can't be seen too well, if at all, in the picture.
 
Early KT17-II motors did not have the filter blcok off plate.

Later KT-17-II motors had a filter block off plate (probably added when the M18 was introduced/engineered to make a common casting)

Replacement KT-17-II motors for the 82 series were shipped with block off plates, the filter base and/or remote filter was an option using parts from the 1810/11/12 tractors.

+/-'83, '84, '85 Red IH Cub cadets were shipped with KT-17-II motors from the factory, many of these did not have the filter base.

It is my assumption that most of the tractors with KT-17-II engines WITH block off plates for the filter were tractors that originally had Series I engines and were repowered/shortblocked........OR possibly very late production MTD red 82 series that came out right befor the switch to the 1810/11/12 with the "new" Mag 18 right side casting.
 
Bryan C., the lower bracket for the IH rear 3 point is mounted to behind the drawbar and has 3 mounting holes and will only fit the cast rear ends. I suppose you could fab something up to mount one there but I don't know that the aluminum rear end would hold up to the stress. The CAT-0 3 point mounts to the frame and thus doesn't directly stress the cast aluminum rear end. Also I'm not sure if the frame on the above SN:719,000 1711/782 has the mounting holes in the proper location to mount the upper cast part of the IH 3 point. To sum it up you'll have to go to CAT-0 rear hitch on your above SN:719,000 CC1711 unless you fab something. But then I could be wrong it wouldn't be the first time. :eek:)

Now if we could get Ken U. to post on this........
 
Kraig, thanks for the QA 36 info, I need to work on that before winter sets in. Ed G.
 
Shanned H.
If you have a lot of backfiring it might be a good idea to remove the head and do a decarbon.

If it was mine I would replace the points, install one of David Kirks ignition modules and a new Autolite 216 plug before I started on the carb.

I've had several walbro carbs and have never been happy with any of them. I picked up some new Carter Carbs on Ebay and replaced all of the Walbro ones and was finally happy.
 
I thought that the bolt circle was the diameter of the circle the bolts would make, except that with a four bolt pattern you could measure the center to center distance of two opposite bolts, and not the distancce of one bolt to another as shown in a five bolt pattern.
 
Kraig, thanks for the info. I didn't know how the CAT-0 rear hitch mounted to the frame.

Look out wallet... $$ cha-ching $$ cha-ching $$
 
Frank M:

The KT-17 Series II motors and the M-18 are basically the same, except for the Oil Filter and Solid State Ignition.

The KT-17 had two series of Motors, being Series I and Series II. Series I had a partial pressurized lubrication system in them. Kohler had a lot of problems with this series of motor if they were used on non-level applications (ie: mowing a ditch bank, etc.) If the motor was tilted just right, one could starve the Oil Pickup Tube. I have a friend of mine that has a KT-17 Series I in a 682 and he has not had a single issue since the tractor was new in 1982. His lawn is flat. LOL
Attached, is a diagram from the Kohler Service Manual that shows the type of lubrication system in the KT-17's:

29229.jpg


Attached is the Lubrication system from the M-18 Service Manual:

29230.jpg


As you can see, the lubrication system of the KT-17 Series II and the M-18 are the same.

As stated before, some of the KT-17 Series II motors had the option of installing a Oil Filter, on the block or remote. Those motors had a block off/ByPass plate attached to the block. Although, not all KT-17 Series II motors had this option, of which mine was one of those.

I hope this sheds some light on your inquiry.
 
On my 1650 the hydraulic lift control lever has become disconnected where it is fastened to the connector link which controls the valve. Little room to work in there even after I removed the fuel tank. I can see a hole throught the control rod shaft by the connector link. Now I am lost. Can't see behind there. Is there a pin that goes through the rod connecting it to the connector link and valve or what? Please get back to me - email if you like so I can get this thing back together and mowing again. Help will be deeply appreciated.
 
More on my 1650 hydraulic lift lever. My main problem is that I cannot get at or see the area where the lever rod connects to the valve linkage. There is no way to take the dash off or see what type pin makes the connection. Does anyone have a picture of this lift rod connected to the valve linkage?
 
ROLAND - I agree 100% on the comment about not using a flat twin on steep side slopes. My 982 will stick on steep hillsides better than ANY CC I own, because it's wider and has newer wider tires, but It's also taller and heavier and may tip before sliding off the slope. And if You tilt it far enough I can imagine oil accumulating in the downhill side cylinder with catastrophic results. So I run My old Kohler K-series engines on the ditch in front of My house.... about a 40* slope 400+ ft long. They're hard to hold up on the slope with their 40 yr old hard tires but the engines don't mind the tilt. And if I use enough "Body English" they'll slide off the hill long before they roll.
 
Mine is going to be about identical to this one.
29233.jpg

I am actually buying the frame off of the guy that made that one. He now has one that is made from an 1811, or something. it is really neat.



What is everyone's opinion on a 3 cylinder Kabota gas engine. I found one and thought that it may be a good power house.

(Message edited by tturner on July 13, 2005)
 
I just posted another custom Cub Cadet "utility" in the "Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better 'n' new" forum.
 
Gene P -

If it's what I'm thinking of, the design has been replaced with a lifting arm that clamps on that control rod rather than making you try and finagle a spirol in there.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top