Archive through July 12, 2005

[lherrmann]

Kraig - That rod is loose enough for me to slide it back and forth. It does have a cotter pin on either end so it won't fall out and it doesn't slop around by itself. I have that diagram and it looks like those are individual mounts on either side. I assumed that the PO had replaced those with a single rod.
Does it need to be relatively tight or is it sufficient that it just keep the frame from moving up and down?

Matt - I have a diagram of a lift frame that Digger posted on June 22 that shows what appears to be two threaded tensioners and no spring on the mule drive pulleys. I haven't seen any others like that but could it be true?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve H., I believe you have to drive out the spirol pin(s) on the rockshaft then the rockshaft will slide out. Hopefully Richard C. will post on this as I bet he's had a few wide frame Cubs apart.

 

[tturner]

Here is another.

Kraig- I really like that red one too. I didn't realize that there were so many out there.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lisa, that should be a single rod that goes all the way through but it shouldn't be extra long, only long enough to protrude about 3/8" or so on each side.

Matt,

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tyler, yep there are quite a few out there. Thanks for the picture.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lisa, the rod is for the mower deck subframe "scissors" to be able to rotate at the rod when the deck is raised and lowered. It should not be tight. I'd cut it off and redrill it for a new pin so it doesn't catch on anything, like your ankle. OUCH!!!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lisa, the two threaded tensioners that you mention from Digger's post would be for using the mower deck "mule drive" for a tiller. With the long belt used on the tiller a spring would allow belt slippage. For a mower deck you would want the spring tensioner, though if adjusted correctly the dual threaded tensioners should work.

 

[shargrove]

Thanks for the reply. Maybe I don't need to take the entire deck lever off. I have a 128 that my dad used before he died. However, it started burning a lot of oil, a mechanic told me it had already been rebuilt and needed to have the engine replaced. For the last 4 or 5 years it has been sitting in a barn. Over the weekend I happened to run across a 108 for sale. Runs great, but mower deck was totally shot. I was able to get it really cheap (I think). I took the mower deck from the 128 and put on it. Mows good although I need to do some leveling I think. The deck lever on the 108 is missing the spring and push button or whatever else is at the top of the lever and I wanted to take the one from the 128 and put on it. I just haven't figured out how to do it or how much of it I even need to switch. After looking at the drawing that was posted, I think maybe I can just swap part of the lever, or maybe I should take the whole thing off and clean it and lube it anyway. So, any more thoughts on this would be very much appreciated.

 

[tturner]

I think that I found my hydraulics...
The dimisions are length is "21", the width is "8", The height is "10"

What do you think?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve H., is the rod (part # 5 in the drawing I posted) still in the lift lever on the 108? If so then the button might have been broken off, or it's possible that the button is rusted in the depressed position. The button (part # 9 in the drawing I posted) should just (assuming it isn't rusted on) unscrew. Before trying to unscrew the button spray a good quality penetrating oil in there like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench and let it set for a day or so.

 

[shargrove]

Part #5 is there but it is down and rusted and not catching at all in the splines. I can move the lever back and forth no problem. I could probably take some pliers and try to move it and see how bad it is. It looks like Parts 7, 8, and 9, are all missing.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tyler, is that an electric powered unit? If so, what is the current draw? Keep in mind that CCs only have about 15amps available..

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve H., if parts 7,8 & 9 are all missing I believe that on a 1x8 series CC the rod, part 5, would slide all the way out. More likely the button, part 9 is broken off. Does the lift handle have a small button (float button) on the front of the grip? This button is for locking the top button in the "down" position to allow for attachments to float. It could be that the float button is stuck in.

 

[tturner]

I don't know Kraig, it came off of a leyman liftgate. It is ebay # 7530194667

What would you do if you were me? Thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tyler, if I were you I'd haul all your Cubs to my place. )

 

[shargrove]

Button on the front of handle appeared to be completely gone, just a hole in the handle. I will look closer tonight when I get home now that I have an idea of what I am looking at.

 

[lherrmann]

Haven't banged my ankle yet, not to say that I won't though, since I am pretty accident prone. This might be one of those things that if it ain't broke don't fix it, yet. Seems to work fine the way it is. The tensioners work too (though there isn't any way to adjust them because they are so rusted up) as long as I keep the deck bearings well lubed. I ordered replacements from Digger's diagram so I think I'll stay with the two threaded ones.

That'll give me a couple of things to do while I'm sweating to the oldies in this weekend's 95 degree heat.

Stay cool and drink lots of clear liquids

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve H., OK, let us know what you find.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lisa, OK.

<font size="-2">However ten minutes or so with a hacksaw, a 1/8" drill bit and a power drill could fix that too-long rod up good as new.</font> )

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Stay cool and drink lots of clear liquids<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>


<font size="-1">Good idea!</font>

 

[lherrmann]

Sure - ten minutes for you. Two hours and lotsa' cuss words for me. Probably several bloody knuckles as well. Remember, I'm accident prone.