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Archive through July 12, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Dollars to donuts Kelly Birkey made that one......
 
Steve, that's what I was thinking! That might be him in the red shirt.
 
Thanks for all the information on the bolt pattern, I now understand how to go about measuring the pattern(I think), anyhow, I will hit the salvage yards this weekend armed with this information and hopefully I will find me a match set of rims for my project tractor.
 
Lonny -

Why not take an axle with ya? Just a thought...
 
Bryan,
You know I would have not thought of that, I have to drain the oil out of the rear end anyhow, might just as well pull an axle while I got the cover off.
Such a simple way to do something and I did not think of it, either I am getting CRS or my brain cells have taken a vacation and left me behind to fend for myself.
I should have rembered the accronim K.I.S.S.
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Bryan,
You know what would be even simpler, take along one of my dual wheel spacers.


Man-o-man was I haveing a brain fart yesterday.
Try to do a simple thing, but try to do it the hard way
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Lonny,

I am emailing you a text file that lists a lot of cars that have 4 1/2 5-bolt wheels. Mostly Ford, Chrysler, and AMC. For instance, the wheels from my 92 Explorer fit. If it doesn't come through I can post it directly here.

JimE
 
Lonny -

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I have two 1" thick steel disks that Dan made for me to space out my duals a bit more when I used chains. Those would be perfect, too (if not HEAVY)...
 
Jim E.
The file came through fine.
It should help narrow down the search for the salvage person. ( I hope )
 
Kelly Birky is who made it.

Boy Kraig, I really like the last one you posted. Who built it? Thanks Tyler
 
hi guys,
I picked up a 2b tiller for my 782 today. It looks pretty slick although I will have to change the pully back to 5/8" from 1/2" I guess someone used it on an older tractor?
I have seen photos on this forum in of studs used to mount the angle drive to the rearend. this seemed like a great idea for a clean and quick R.and R. Would anyone have the particulars on stud length,hardness, ect.I would imagine I would use nuts to secure the rearend cover,and then more nuts to secure the angle drive? Whould there be a loss of strength having the drive not up tight to the rear plate? anything to worry about?
Thanks for all your help.
P.s. with all this talk about the kt-17 I guess I better start a transplant fund for a my series 1
although she is still purring like a kitten after 25 summer and winter seasons
I really enjoy the forum
thanks again
John
 
Tyler T., that was made by James Bowen. I'll post another custom that James B. made, an Original with a "sidecar like" side by side seating. Watch the "Cool IH Cub Cadets......." forum for it today.
 
Tyler, Kelly B's new utility Cub is made from an 1872. Remember you took photos of it and sent it to me. My memory is starting to work today, I must not have had enough coffee yesterday. :eek:)
 
OK - Since it's too hot and the grass isn't growing it's time for some more "What and Why" questions about the 106 (which is running beautifully thanks to everyone's help.)

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1) What is this Quick Attach lever and how would I use it with what implements?

2) I assume this is related to 1) is it supposed to be this long?

3) Why do I have 2 threaded bolts here and no tension spring?
 
I have a Cub 128 that I am trying to remove the deck lift lever (or whatever it is called) on the right side of the mower. Could someone tell me how it is held on?
 
Lisa H.-

1. That locks QA implements such as the deck carriage into place. I can't visualize in my head wether up or down locks them in, but if you move it and look closely you'll get it.

2. No.

3. Number 3 on the left is supposed to be a spring, but it looks like a PO lost the spring and replaced it with another threaded tensioner.
 
The one thing I have noticed about all these tractors with dump boxes is that most of them have a long wheelbase and appear to be difficult to steer. Here's an idea I have:
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I've left out some cosmetic stuff for clarity, and the seat is way too big, but you get the idea anyway. You'd probably need a weight in the back and a really strong axle, but it would be a bit more maneuverable than most of these designs.
 
Lisa, make sure that the rod sticking out the side is not slid out of place that should just stick out each side about 3/8" or so and have a hairpin clip, one on each side, holding it in place.

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(Message edited by kmcconaughey on July 14, 2005)
 
Matt, one potential problem with your design is that the load would be over the wheels doing the steering and would be very hard on the spindles much like a loader is on a tractor. Also unless you add power steering it'd be very hard to turn. On the "conventional" utility vehicles it isn't the long wheelbase that makes them hard to steer it's the versions with dual drive axles that want to push the vehicle. Now if the dual drive axles had "skid steer" type steering like this one that was posted on the Yahoo Cub Cadet forum......... :eek:)

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