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Archive through July 05, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Finished my Cub tractor and engine hoist today.
When I designed it I wanted it big enough to lift a Cub and to be wide enough to be able to pull a 50 inch deck out the front, but I didn't want it so big that I would be tempted to use it on cars and trucks. I wanted to be able to easily move it around the garage by myself with an engine hanging on it.

I mounted non swival casters on the rear and swival casters on the front. I wasn't sure if I would need swival casters all around until I tried it and found out that it works good with only the front swival casters. Since it is only about 6 feet tall you can grab it in the center and guide it wherever you want.

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I picked up the electric hoist at Harbor Freight, made some brackets and attached it to a Power Strut rail with some Unistrut hangers with bearings. It has plenty of power with the single cable pull but comes with an extra pulley you can mount and then hook the cable in the hole in the orange frame. With the extra pulley you slow down the speed considerable so it should help when you are lifting or installing an engine.

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I have a boom type engine hoist but it was always in my way, with this one I can park it over the roll around work table I set my spare engines on and free up the work area.

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I did make it wide enough so I could lift something up and set it on the tailgate of my pickup. It is very stable, even with something heavy lifted to the max you can not wiggle it enough to tip it over.

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Richard,nicejob. plans to follow? Could anyone tell me if it is better to plow with a hydro or a gear drive,and do you have to secially prepare a hydro for plowing,special fluid etc?
 
Hello- I just joined this forum. After years of mowing lots of grass and a home orchard with a push mower I finally found a 1970 Hydrostatic Cub Cadet that I could afford and I have been slowly figuring out how to run it. I just replaced the head gasket, first time for me. I am a woodworker, not a mechanic. anyway, I was struck by the fact that the head itself seemed to be aluminum, and the rest of the block was iron.this is the 10HP Kohler. I still have to get a maunal and parts book from one of the sponsors, but is this normal? thanks in advance.
 
Shawn L.
Plow with what ever you got. Makes no dif if it's a hydro or a gear drive. Course we all know Hydros are better all around tractors, snicker
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Tobias D.-

Yup, that's the right head.

Charlie-

But certainly not better to work on, or start up in the winter, etc.
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All-

I finally had a steering wheel too stuck even for the FAQ method. Had to get out the flaming wrench. After the steering wheel hub starts glowing then it comes off easy.
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You do have to be careful though, we managed to set the steering wheel on fire, and that plastic/rubber coating REALLY, REALLY smells bad when it burns.
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Richard:

That is one nice hoist, looks like you thought of everything. My boom type hoist might end up in storage yet!
 
Matt G,
That's the little green one, I was thinkin I remembered seein a big green one once in one of Richards pic post.

BTW Richard, that's pretty danged slick.
 
hello guys im in the process of restoreing a model 100 i took the engine down to a local shop to be rebuilt got a call back tonight the guy says that its been bored 30 thousands and cant be redone again its a k301 12 horse is there any other engine that will fit in the narrow frame and keep the stock apperance ive looked in the archives and didnt find anything about putting different model number engines in any help would be appreciated he said he thinks he can get a new replacement engine for 8 hundred bucks is that high or a good deal
 
Anyone ever see a piston come apart like this? What would cause it to break off on the oil scraper ring? I have a feeling that some carbon flaked off the head and got in between the two and the piston gave out.

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Jared-
Looks like a case where carbon built up behind the compression rings and jacked the rings out, not a teribly uncommon thing to happen on larger engines, sometimes it'll happen to a diesel and there will be a neat little doughnut left at the top of the cylinder with some neat marks left by the valves.

piston failures are the best!
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Hi Mark!

The original engine for your Cub Cadet 100 would be a K241 10hp, but as you can tell, a 12hp (K301) small flywheel will fit fine.

Your mechanic guy is correct when he says 0.030 is the farthest recommended overbore. Standard oversize pistons on OEM and aftermarket are listed as 0.003, .010, .020, and .030.

Question is... HOW tight do you need it to be, and how bad is the cylinder? IF the bore's only out by a tad, and you're not lookin' for a serious plowing-load-type motor, it might be alright to just hone a new pattern into the walls, install new rings, and put it back together and putt around shows just fine...

But if you're looking for a replacement motor, it's not too hard to find a K241 (which would be most correct) or a K301 (like what you've got) in rebuildable condition for much less that a new motor. Check the For-Sale forum branch as well as the sponsors (pictures above). Rebuild parts are readily available from Kohler, as well as aftermarket through sponsors, etc... you'll find some fine references and rebuild comments in the other forum branches (especially the performance-pulling branch). Also note that the engine manual set for most every Kohler engine is available (free!) for download (free!) from their website (free!)... and it's absolutely free!
 
Hi guys,
This is my first post.
It may be my last when my wife finds out I spent $300.00 on parts for my mower deck today.
I don't know if the prices were good or bad but,
after another $150.00 in work on the deck itself, I'll have a great mower again.
I think I have found a good supplier for new-old parts.
I would appreciate any help or advice.
Thanks, Mike


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(Message edited by mkjohnson on July 06, 2004)

(Message edited by mkjohnson on July 06, 2004)
 
Michael Johnson. Hate to say it, but I think that you should sell it to me right now so that your wife won't kill you... Don't worry about me, cause my wife has been conditioned.
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Seriously, looks like you got a real nice Original. What type of info or suggestions are you looking for?

Mark Jones, hey as far as the engine goes, you can easily convert that over-bored 10hp to a standard bore 12hp. Then pick up a crank, conrod, and piston, and a 12hp oil pan, and you have a 12hp. I am doing something like that to my Original... I'm gonna put a 12hp crank, (got one from Don Vogt), then gonna bore it out to a 12hp standard bore, buy a 12hp conrod, and cut off the dipper, drop the 10hp oil pan back on and wala, a 12hp Original.. But it will be slightly more than that... I have some plans... ;) <font size="-2">now I will show someone one a real kick, and it won't be with some panzy sandals either...</font>
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Michael Johnson, BTW you know that just about everyone here has sunk in more money than what the tractor is worth into their Cub Cadet... With that, I think it was Ted Ill who said:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

My Cub loves my wallet<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
Hi Jeff,
I guess I just need reasurance that I haven't done anything really stupid. As opposed to the really stupid stuff I normally do. Also, I got all the manuals with it and intend to rebuild the deck myself (sandblast/weld/paint/reassemble). I did replace the seat as I discovered that apparently only skinny people ride tractors.
Seriously, I can follow the instructions on how to reassemble the deck but, do need to know if there is anything lurking there. I bought both cogged pulleys, both belts and all six bearings. Are there any other wear items to worry about?
Thanks, Mike


(Message edited by mkjohnson on July 07, 2004)
 

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