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Archive through January 25, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Paul B.
Your not gonna tell me you ain't done what we've all done at least once.
Set in the seat, both hands on the steering wheel and gone Vrooom Vrooom!
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roflol.gif

Under Edit,
And then looked around to see if anyone was watching, LOL
 
No parts book in front of me. Is the diameter of the spindle on a original the same the later models? Would a floatation tire/rim w/bearing fit??
 
Tom, here's a few photos of the box that Art has. These were taken in the basement of the dealership that had it.

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Tom, if your are referring to the wheel axle, I believe the Original is 7/8" and the later models are 3/4".

220246.jpg
 
Matt,

If you are going to take some material off the top of the axle at the spindle, take enough to use a needle thrust bearing sandwiched between two thin .020 stainless steel washers, and the sandwich between the plate on the spindle and the bottom of the axle.

I did that to an um, green tractor along with the needle thrust bearing on the steering box and got a noticeable improvement in syteering effort. The axle setup is similar and the steering box is identical to your CC.

The big deal with the steering box is to clean out the old grease, put in a new follower, and adjust the thing before you put it back on the tractor. You can do a minor adjustment after the box is back in the tractor but the gross setup adjustment is a whole lot easier before you put the box in the tractor.

Steve
 
Kraig-
Thanks for posting those pics. I looked for them earlier, but couldn't put my finger on them.

Tom-
It looks just like this one, minus the box-ends:
220250.jpg


The only other <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> factory shipping box I've heard of is this one. <font size="-2">(Owned by someone who wishes to remain private)</font>
220251.jpg
 
Digger,
Didn't say I hadn't done that,
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(<font size="-2">where's the Vroom Vroom emoticon thingys?)</font> just saying thats about all he could do iffin he put a 'lectric PTO clutch on a S/G Kohler
 
Paul P,
It is possible...

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It needed a shaft extension, and the clutch "cup" removed, but it can be done. The larger pulley helps with a thrower and a B section belt, I run an A section to the mower. It just rides down in the groove a little. I had to get creative with the wiring to properly interlock it with the starter, and operated off of the original PTO handle.

As Charlie said, the original design will last a long time if installed right... I got this clutch for free, so on it went...
 
Steve S.-

I'm not taking ANY material off of my axles, nor am I going to put thrust bearings in them. My tractors steer easily enough, and I don't have enough confidence in those needle bearings. The plain bearing that is already there is far more tolerant of the dirt, loads, and only partial rotations of the spindles. It isn't broken, so I'm not fixing it.
 
Art,
Thanks for posting those pix. The "other" box looks to be a 71-123 series, as opposed to the Original version posted.
 
Tom-
Yeah, that box is actually from an "Electric Start" 102 with the "High Flote" tire option. LOL!

220267.jpg


By the way, I was trying to think of a caption for that "railroad tracks" picture when I saw it awhile back, but couldn't come up with anything. YOU NAILED IT!!! LOL!
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Can someone give me the dimensions of the oval hole in the clutch release lever for a wide frame 128?
Mine is worn round and I need to try to weld fill it before I buy a new one with the money I do not have.... thanks
 
This may have been mentioned already--I'm skimming tonight--but if you follow that earlier link to the thrust bearing thread on the green forum, there are pictures of a set with some use on them. The hardened races were nearly gone.

Although it's not the entire problem in this case, rolling element bearings in general are meant to be rotating while loaded and are not meant for high static loads or slow/small angular rotation. For this application you want surface area and grease.

Jerry
 
I got the 1250 running, ended up pulling the head, pulling both valves, clean lap, clean again and close up. Runs very good now. Now the whole rest of the machine needs some time.

The person I bought the 1250 from also had a 1200 with a creeper, so that ended up in my truck. The 1200 with creeper is a bit rough. Has a 14HP kohler sitting in it but not bolted in, The whole clutch/drive shaft is missing (yuck). He also tossed in 3 Kohler 12 HP one is NOT from a cub and the others are missing a few parts. He also wants me to take a frame with a full hydrodrive with ported pump and I think what you all call 3 point hitch. No motor or hood. Lots of "stuff" so I am sure my next trip will be the frame/hydro. looks like once I get some things fixed/sorted I will need to decided who goes and who stays. I also have a 582, 1200, 1000

All this started from a "free" plow on craigslist. I needed something to push it.
 
If I wanted to build my own attachment can I run a hydro cylinder with a ported hydro drive? Well I want to build something, just wondering of limits of the hydrodrive pump.
 
Wayne Makowicki

I think you got between 500 and 800 lbs pressure with the ported pump. Depends on the cylinder you use and what you want to do.
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