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Archive through January 25, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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mgonitzke

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Aug 4, 2006
Messages
4,740
Location
Wichita, KS
displayname
Matt Gonitzke
Bernie-

This keeps coming up everywhere. I honestly don't think it'll make enough difference to be worth the trouble. If you go through the steering box, add the nice605 bearing to the steering box, replace the tie rod ends, set the toe-in properly, and disassemble, clean, and re-grease the spindles and keep them greased, the tractor will steer very easily. It looks like the JD guys had some issues with the washers wearing out quickly. The needle bearing will have far less bearing area than what the axle/spindle interface already has. I would worry about how long that lasts, long term.
 
Jeremiah,

Thanks.

I would fix the king pins with new bolts and trick #2. I would reuse the spacers.

I would replace the pivot bolt as you describe, but would not mess with the cast axle....they have been known to break every now and then, and weakening the center with an oversize hole is ill-advised (IMHO). Just tighten everything up good and tight (the fore and aft play in a loose joint here can cause a lot of steering slop). The axle pivot bolt should be tight enough that it takes some real effort to move the axle when off the ground (in operation 3-400# of tractor will ride on it).

After that, replace the rod ends and if necessary adjust the steering box and you will have steerinng that is better than 90% of the Cubs out there!!!
 
Bernie Idid the thurst bearings on a 154 with a loader on it . It took 2 hands to turn it with no load in the bucket before. After thurst bearings you could turn it with one hand with a bucket full of snow. I did this 2 years ago and still working fine. Did have to remove some material from top of axle
 
Mr. Plow --If I need to get the joint that tight, I'll definitely have to locate a grade 5 pivot bolt 3/4"-10 x 7" long.

The axle was quite "lively" when it was attached to the tractor. I expect you're correct, when I get through the performance will be better than average, and that's what I'm after.

Thanks again, I'm feeling much better about the whole situation.
 
Just getting caught up reading here, and saw Art suggesting that Charlie may have installed his axle backwards. I'm rather surprised that I didn't see a re-posting of a photo showing something Art installed backwards once upon a time...
 
Greg, <font size="-2">was that tires with a tread going forward and the other going backward</font>, causing the tractor to constantly circle?
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PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT: I stopped into the local <font color="ff0000">Case/IH</font> dealer today and asked the guy behind the counter for a 5-gallon pail of Hytran. When he hoisted the bucket over the counter, I must have winced when he said the price, ($65/bucket) because he then goes:

"Hey don't complain, word from Case is that there's going to be a price increase coming soon. As much as 15% in the near future!"

I don't know how true that info is, but if you're "in the mood" for some Hytran, you may want to pick it up soon.

Lip-
I don't know WHAT you're talking about...
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Allen-
No, not quite...but we do tend to go in circles around here a lot!
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Thanks for the heads-up on Hy-Tran prices, Art. I have three empty one-gallon Hy-Tran jugs here and I think this might be the right time to get them refilled.

(Oh, yeah - mum's the word on tires!)
 
Art,
You of all people should know by now, NEVER go in and buy one of THEIR buckets.
Take you own and buy bulk, it's almost half the price.
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Charlie-
Yeah, I already asked what they get for the "bulk" Hytran, but for some reason they don't sell "bulk". Prepackaged only... Heck, I even have a nice empty 5 gallon bucket from my last Hytran here they could'a filled up!

At 20 miles away, it's by far the closest dealer to my house, but it's also the same dealer that I refuse to buy parts from anymore after they didn't have a rear diff cover gasket for a 122....4 weeks after I ordered it!

Either way (bulk or prepackaged) the moral of the story is "the price may be rising".

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Lucas J

Can`t help you on the parts exchange between those two models. I just wanted to know what you were asking, from what model .
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Hi Everyone,

Might be a dumb question...but, is it possible or worth the effort to change the mechanical front pto with one of the newer electric ones ?

It seems to me that when I rebuild mine, using the tiller and snow blower really wears them out quickly that they begin to slip.
 
PAUL - I agree that it seems like running a snow blower takes it's tole on a PTO clutch. Back then I used my QA-36 a lot MTD/CCC tried a different material or formulation for the disc material and the PTO friction discs were harder, and brittle, I broke a couple. But the PTO clutch on my #72 ran flawlessly for many years, something like 8-10 yrs with the 10 HP engine and has survived 150 operating hours with the 14 HP engine and I haven't touched it.

My Dad ran a tiller on a dedicate 129 for many years (15-/+ yrs) and used the tiller to cultivate weeds in his large garden all summer, till gardens in the spring for several friends. And as far as I know he never had much problem with the PTO.

I actually prefer the mechanical PTO, it lets you ease the attachment into operation. I haven't had any problems with the elec clutch on my 982 in ten yrs & 300+ hrs but I'm sure that day is coming.

Depending on the style of your engine block, there may not be mounting holes for the elec. clutch. Plus you won't be able to run your starter/generator with the basket pulley to start your engine & run the generator.

If the friction disc wears thinner, but the disc is still in one piece and the drive lugs aren't beat up too bad, you can re-adjust the the clutch to spec again. Also some of the later tractors had two triangle shaped springs to increase clutch pressure, You might be able to add a second spring so your clutch doesn't slip. The all flat springs without the bent tips would be easy to do this to.
 
Paul Pimentel

I think it could be done , but the electric pto has a bigger pulley I think and all your attachments would run faster.
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Paul P.
If your blowing PTO's, that means that your not doing something right on the rebuild.
A rebuilt PTO should last another 30 years if it's done the right way and you have all your bases covered. Like making sure that the disc surfaces are trued up on a lathe and new parts are used as replacements.
 
Lucas
Yes the 126 3 point will fit the 122, but the "hat" bracket the upper casting is in on the 126 is not needed on the 122.
 
Thanks Dennis, Charlie, & Donald,

You know.... after 40+ years with the old cub I just never thought about re-adjusting or adding a second spring. To the eye the disc surfaces usually look okay to me, never put a straight edge on it though.

Thanks for all your info.

p.s. I have 2 100's, a 123, and another that I can't think of right now.

Paul
 
Paul P,
The electric PTO clutch cannot be used on a K series Kohler that uses a starter generator.........unless you just want to sit in the seat and make motor noises and not start the engine.
 

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