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Archive through January 21, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Nice find Bill! Welcome to the 126 club...turns out you have #3 rarest Cub built.
 
It worked, it was my first attempt to remove a steering wheel period, and having done some background reading I was prepared for some effort. Honestly it degenerated into directed violence. I've yet to take out the steering column so I could still find that I've caused myself a problem but I'm feeling good about it right now as pulling the front wheels still causes the shaft to spin
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Martin H - I suspose you saw my name on that post BGC Post recommending #570. Been along time since I looked at that and saw it's dated 1998. Geez, has it been that long? Only thing I can figure is maybe your legs are a little short and you might still have some growing to do? I've never had one yet to give me a real problem. Most pop off with the first blow, worst case 3 hits. Anyway, your cobbled method looks like it should work as well, and probably is less violent.
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Bill J - well, so ya got the 126. Since you already have a 14hp or 16hp engine without a tractor I'm thinking you could take the 10hp out of your 109 and drop either the 14 or 16 into that. I'd probably do that so you could get a feel for the 126 transposed into a 106.
 
Tom H, Martin H,

I had a 123 once where the steering wheel was just not coming off. I had a good steering wheel on the shelf that wasn't cracked, and a good hacksaw...
Martin I admire your perseverance!

The ones on the originals and 70's I like better because there is less plastic/bakelite to crack/bust off!
 
Bill,

Looks like you saved a good one. Zig-Zag or not lol.
One less for the pullers to cut up and the scrap guys to melt.
 
Art ; I got all the Cub stuff from a guy who is having health issues and he said I needed to but them. We have been talking about me buying his Cubs for over a year. I thought someone might notice the wheel weights he made in a frying pan. He heated car wheel weights (melted) them down . I think I have 4 or 5 pair of those at 26 lbs plus 2 IH weights.My cargo trailer still needs to be empted ; I need to get the torches in my shop . They are going to come in handy on rusted Cub bolts and nuts. I need to email Frank to see if he has a spare 12 hp Crank for the hydro tractor . I bet to get that crank key way re-cut will cost the price of a used tractor around here .I`am cleaning carbs today while it is snowing here. I plan on a little drive around the yard later. This was the best deal I ever made for Cub parts and tractors.


Morning Denny
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I did some working at the 108 ;added gas and connected the battery and it runs
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. the chart says April 72 . had a look at the 102 and see it was made May 67 . The 108 started with some smoke but that cleared up quickly. runs nice and sound great.Now to see if the 102 will start. I thought I would post a picture of the lead wheel weights on the 102 . I like the fact that they don`t stick out like my plastic one does.

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The 108 was only turning 3200 at wot so I adjusted that to 3580 and set the idle at 1000 rpm`s. had to adjust the carb to get it where it would run smooth at idle. My photo tack came in handy for that. I see it does charge and run nice now.Going though some of the boxes I got with buying these cubs ; I see a few carb rebuild kits and condenser's . I feel sad that the PO had to sell all his Cub`s because of his health ! I guess my day is comming also.
 
On the QL models with the flex clutch driver, that has always seemed like an idea in search of a problem to me. I used to use my 1200 with a REGULAR driver for years as my primary tractor. Zero issues! Once the flex driver busted (common)and needed repairs I simply replaced it with one from a 128. The minimal movement of the engine on the iso-mounts had not affected proper clutch function over the years.

CAUTION; the following may cause great distress for the perfectionist restorers:

To summarize: I was never a believer in the need for the flexible clutch driver and my personal use has proven that to be true. (Need duck and cover imoticon here)
 
Rick Beem,

As a puller, I resent that comment. I have never once used a cub that was whole enough to warrant a refurb (I know, that is subject to opinion.)

All of my pullers have been hacked up by PO's or put together with leftovers from a refurbish... Not all of us are cutting up original sheet metal. In fact the last 2 I bought were not even IH made.
 
Jim D

I too have heard of others substituting the solid driver in a QL with no issues. Did you stick with the solid center pilot bushing on the clutch driver on your 1200?
 
None of my business - but in my neck of the woods, the weather channel is saying that for this Friday the following:

"Snow - Potential for significant snow accumulation"

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One never knows what you will find when you take a carb off a Cub . This fuel bowl has rust in it and other crud.

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so into the Ultrasonic cleaner it goes.

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And a new carb kit after a 25 minute cooking at 165 deg . Then just some compressed air and it is ready for another kit and new bowl.
 
YA!! Rick, What Nic said....LOL
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Actually My three pullers AND my plow tractor were junk piles brought back from going to the scrap yard,I know everytime I look at my tractors, I remember what they looked like when I brought them home and then what they look like after Caleb and I got finished referbin them, We,ve kick the idea around about sellin them, can't , to much time and love in them!!!
 
I have a never fail strg. wheel puller.It is a 1" oak board 4"wide with a slingshot like opening in one end wide enough to go around column.I drilled a small hole in the other end.I put a pad on the dash,engage the board and hook a bungie cord in the little hole and hook it down in front.Next I loosen the nut and loosen it until flush with shaft.I have a 1.25"dia x 6"long, I call it a ram and hit it 2or3 times and has always popped loose.When I learn how to post pics I will send some photas.
Dan
 
Don T - so he made those lead wheel weights in a frying pan? I hate given away secrets but I made some in a pot using my BBQ grill (in middle of the winter). but mine were made to attach to the inside of a cast iron weight. Basically 2 bolt holes were to hold the lead weight to the cast weight, and the other 2 bolt holes were for holding the weight to the wheel. Worked really nice adding 50#lead to a 26# weight. Gave me the valve stem cutout, kept the weights inside the rim area. Problem I had was drilling the holes in the lead after I made the weight. Anyone ever tried drilling thru 3" of lead with a 1/2" drill bit - gets hot and the lead melts onto the bit - I think it might'a took me an hour to drill each hole. I also had to use a piece of flat stock steel on the back of the lead so the bolt didn't continually loosen up or pull thru the lead. The ones in your pic look like they are mounted for life. I used to take mine on and off ever season.
Hey lets see that fuel bowl when it's done. I hate to see the carb itself tho.

Jim D - hey no problem on that clutch from me. it's covered by the side panels, you still use Cub parts, and it's a gear drive besides
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The 102 runs but not well,I think I will check the valve clearance because it sure makes a lot of valve rattle . done for today !
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