Archive through January 21, 2013

[sblunier]

MMO - Precisely measured at 3-4 "glugs" from the bottle per 5 gallon gas can....

Carb Adjustment: FWIW at 3-1/2 to 4 turns out you basically have a fixed jet carb and the needle isn't doing much if anything to control fuel any more......

 

[bjamison]

Quick question - I mentioned a 126 in an earlier post, but I think the seller has sold it. This got me thinking. I'd like to try a gear drive CC, but my 109 & 1650 are wide frames - so I gather there is some commonality between them as far as attachments go - so what about me looking for a 128.

Any advantage to a 128 vs a 126?

I kind of like the style of the zig-zag front end and rear fender/pan of the 1x6/7 tractors though.

 

[hydroharry]

Bill J - it might be a quick question, but the answers lead to Hydro vs. Gear wars. Please tell us "why" you want to try a gear drive, and then we can tell you why you should or shouldn't. And for starters, Gear drives require more maintenance due to the clutch assembly parts (although not terribly often), the clutch parts make rattle noises (at least some times), top speed is slow compared to a hydro and you don't have infinitely variable speed. You can add a Creeper and give yourself 3 slower speeds (4 with reverse). And as far as which Gear drive to go with - 126 is nice all around unit but you already noted some attachments will be different, or at least require different sub-frames to switch between narrow and wife frames. If you want to get a Gear drive, and keep your kids really happy I'd shoot to get a late series 1200. It would have 1" front spindles and the lower grill housing would be aluminum (instead of cast iron), and you can actually pop wheelies - Let's Be Careful Out There.

 

[rbeem]

Bill,

With two wide frames already in the herd, I would go with the 128.The attachments and parts will interchange.
That said, don't get rid of your hydro's...not every day is a gear drive day.

My plow tractor is a 108 with a 14hp dropped in. It is my favorite tractor ever...and I've had everything from a 2072 to an Original.
I enjoy having gear drive and manual lift on this one. I have no headlights,and no PTO. Just me, tractor, and the plow.

I won't second Harry's vote for a 1200. The clutch drivers and bearings are not common with the older non Quietlines and are quite expensive when you can find them.

And....zig-zags...pooey.

 

[fcurrier]

Pooey right back atcha:

 

[thoffman]

I'm with Rick,
Staying with the 86-128 "soild mount" in the is best. Once you get into the Quiet Lines you have the flex disc drive (pricy to replace), rag joints and Iso-mounts. I also like the narrow frame for the "Old time" feeling, but the wide frame are easier to work on. Drop a 14 or 16 in there and you have something. Bolt 'em in SOILD and be happy.

 

[wshytle]

I'm with you Frank.

Anything 1981 and before is welcome in my collection. I'd consider a few 81, 82 red models but that's about as far as it goes...but that's just me.

 

[bjamison]

Harry - I had to scold my brother for mentioning popping the front wheels in front of my Boys - I could see the "gears" starting to move in their head with the possibility of having more fun when I ain't looking!

The thing that most appeals to me about gear drives is constant speed. I like that more than infinite speed because where I work my tractors, nothing is level for more than 10 yards, then it's up or down and I get infinite speeds out of the hydros regardless of what speed I'd like to be cruising (this is why I like foot control hydros - which I have converted two of my other color tractors). The other thing I like about gear drives is I've only got two hands. One for the steering and the other for the lift. It's a pain in the arse sometimes with any hydro to work a front blade or blower and make everything work at the same time. I would say that I've observed one of my Boys using my 109 hydro like a gear drive. He sets the ground speed and then uses the neutral/brake pedal to slow/stop the tractor. I kind of like this approach for him in that he is at least learning where the emergency stop button is on the tractor - under his left foot. It's not a bad way to work these CC hydro tractors - set the speed and push-in the "clutch" to return the hydro to neutral to stop and I think the CC manual may suggest that too?

But I like both and I've got both in other color tractors. The older I get, the more I like hydro lift, but I gather that - at least with these CC's is you can add an electric lift if necessary.

My biggest problem is where to store all these tractors. I've got a feeling that I may be thinning the fleet this Spring based on which tractors have been nice to me and which have been a pain in the buttox over the years.

 

[dtanner]

Bill Jamison

I agree the hydro working I run out of hands to run everything. I need to get a foot controll hydro and then they would be great. My loader needs foot controll ;because with the loader contolls and steering the Cub you need an extra arm lol to handel the hydro lever. I`am thinking of a gear drive tractor I just got ;pulling the 12 K and putting in the 14 K spare I have and see if I like a gear drive . I`am thinking a creeper in this Cub !

The cover has been cut out for a creeper handle.

 

[jbaker]

Don, all the covers come cut out for the creeper

 

[wshytle]

Don-

That color is just "peachy"!

 

[tbdavis]

Bill, not sure where you live but there's a 126 on Craigslist in northern Indiana with an electric lift and sounds pretty nice. Good luck with whatever choice you make.

 

[rmcshane]

Bill- A 126 is also a great all around tractor for mowing, plowing and pulling. I love mine, but the PO didn't. Got mine for $75 with rear PTO...the owner was about ready to scrap it. It is in great shape. It had a blown rod so I dropped a reman 12hp Kohler in it. This fall I plowed three gardens with a 10 inch moldboard plow. I ended up putting a 3pt, ag tires, weights, creeper, and lights on it and still looking to put a hydro lift on it.

A 128 is also a really good tractor. Obviously the same design only a wider frame, but they are easier to work on vs a 126. I've had two 128's in my collection and they have both been good pullers. One I used to pull 300lb cement blocks up a grade for a gentleman in Colo (ask Marlin H) and my nicer one at home I use to pull racks with around the farm. (IDK if pulling things was what you were worried about, but, just so you know

 

[fcurrier]

So Don: What is it? (What HP?) Wonderful mismatch of colors! If it was mine I'd do the mechanics and leave the paint alone. It will always be a reminder of the guy you got it from.

 

[aaytay]

Don-
I agree with the others, that looks like a nice haul of cub-stuff.

Was this a Craigslist find, or some other connection?

 

[hydroharry]

Bill J - ya see, I knew if ya gave us just a little more info then the Gear Heads would come out of the wood work. Did ya notice nearly everyone of them wants more HP than came standard. Although I somewhat jokingly suggested a 1200 I also agree with what Tom mentioned about the clutch differences and being more costly to repair (although I think maybe Tom has a 1000 or 1200 that he dropped a 16hp in and he calls it a 1600). A 128 actually makes a nice original unit, somewhat easier to work on than narrow frames, but a 126 is a nice unit, and so is a 124, and for that matter a 122 is a nice old unit. As for working on them - I never wanted one to be breaking down, so I always went thru everything (except the rearend). That way you should be good for several years. As for thinning your heard - geez, it's to early. Until you've had one for 10 years and it's really a part of you, you shouldn't get rid of any.

 

[mhealy]

I had quite a lot of fun getting my steering wheel off. I tried the method from post #570 of 890 but I couldn't make it work. Here's what I cobbled together in the end...

 

[bjamison]

Quick update: Seller got back to me (I was sure it had sold) and I wound-up bringing home the 126. That's the good news. The bad news is the engine may have a thrown rod, so a goodly bit of work is in order. Doesn't have a creeper or rear lift. Nice tool box area under the seat, I was expecting a battery under there, but found a box full of cast iron window weights. Tractor has headlights and came with a deck. Not sure if the deck is a 42 or 48 inch deck yet.

I loaded the tractor in my two wheel drive Nissan truck and it felt like it had a load. This 126 seem more compact of a tractor than my 109 and 1650, but maybe not.

I'll try to post some pics over the next few days.

 

[wshytle]

Bill-

You will like the 126 just fine. Since you know the engine has issues now would be the time to go ahead and get everything right. Chances are the steering needs attention, clutch components will probably have some wear, and of course the engine will need to be pulled so you can refurb the driveshaft. That way, like Harry mentioned, it will be good to go for several years trouble free. The headlights are a nice plus too. If the wiring is badly worn a new harness is about $50. A rear lift will not be that hard to come by if you want to add that. It's also a good time to put some new skin on it if need be.

Looking forward to some pics!

 

[thoffman]

Marty,
How well did the steering wheel remover work out for you??