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Archive through January 14, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Marlin, Original clutches are easy to work on. Just have to use caution when dealing with the compressed springs. Provided the lining isn't all worn away all it should need would be a good cleaning, new roll pins, truing up the clutch surfaces like you would with a PTO, and perhaps a new throw out bearing. The SERVICE MANUAL should cover it. Clutch info starts on page 15.

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So I did my usual 6 case monthly order for low ash oil from Cub and got these dang things,WTH! LOL
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Charlie ,I just bought 2 qts of this from a local dealer and got the same thing. I guess they found a way to recycle or less waste ? Was kinda neat though and seemed easy enough to pour without a funnel.
 
Ok...for all of you who have installed a creeper before I have a couple of questions. Do you need to separate the tractor in two parts ? Also will you have to remove the motor from the frame or dislodge it like in the instructions ? I may not be understanding what ive read and when I look at the CC 104 . It seems to me one could use a lift and install it from underneath without separating the tractor ? Im going to be installing this in the next month or so so looking to be educated in easier ways possibly ? Also is it better to use 30 weight oil or use a hydro fluid ? Thanks in advance for any info given...
 
What's this? 149 Engine. Mounted on engine stud. Not serving a purpose when purchased. TOMCAT jewelry? Locomotiveman Tom

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Just got back from the three month doctor checkup. THANK YOU Gentlemen for the quick replies and for the picture and Service Manual link, Kraig. I'm going to be picking it up in the next two weekends. Now I need to somehow make room to work on it in an already crowded garage. Even Fancy thinks the garage should be bigger.
 
Tom, what Charlie said, however, it also comes in handy for a spot to zip tie an overly long, after market spark plug wire.
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Ok im scrolling around the net and find a IH CC original for sale. Hes asking $ 200 fir it with a couple of issues. Major problem is front right spindle is froze and won't turn. The rear universal joint needs replaced. Frame is cracked in front of rear end. The frame could be easily welded back together.Think hes asking too much for this ? Ive always wanted an O just never seen one for sale.
 
Amy - I didn't look back at Creeper installation instructions but they are very likely what you need to do. Thinking thru this - you know that in order to install a Creeper you have to shorten the driveshaft, and in order to shorten the drive shaft you have to remove the clutch, and in order to remove the clutch you have to remove/dislodge the engine - So I would just remove the engine and get it out of the way.

Now, I just removed a Creeper from a 102 which is nearly the same as a 104. First I removed the engine and then the clutch assembly. (This is an old 102 in rough shape but it did run and drive, the hydraulic lift worked and the Creeper shifted ok). Next I removed the Creeper breather and the knob on the shifter handle. I tried to remove the drain plug but couldn't get it to budge so I got a pan to catch the fluid. Then I unbolted the Creeper thinking I could just slide it forward twist it around and drop it down - but unfortunately it was a no go. I had to unbolt the foot treads and drop the rock shaft down out of the way, and I had a hard time getting at the front bolt (thru the frame) holding the left foot tread because it's so close to the steering box. If I hadn't completely removed the engine and set it aside out of the way I know it would have been even harder to get at the front bolt for the left foot tread.

So - to install the Creeper I believe you need to completely removed the engine and set it aside, then remove the clutch assembly, then remove the rock shaft.

Now - on this Original you just found, well off hand it sounds like a little to much to me but you really haven't given us enough info. Is it complete and does it come with anything else or attachments? Does it run? Does it have a sleeve hitch? Good original seat pan? Good tires and steering wheel? Is it a low digit build unit? There are so many questions here it's hard to say if $200 is to much. Is it really only worth $100? Unless we know more I think it's really hard to say but I would think you could haggle a little between $100 and $200.

Charlie - couple things.
With regard to the Low Ash Engine Oil - are you sure you don't mean WTF instead of WTH?

Now, about those instructions in the PTO overhaul kit, are you sure you "really don't care" or is it more an issue that I may have been right twice? I have to think you really don't want people getting the wrong instructions and you end up getting PTO's returned to you with brand new broken springs.
 
Amy-

Simply state to him how expensive it will be to get everything fixed/welded etc. and flash one Ben. I bet he goes for it without blinking an eye.

Someone asked about lube for a creeper in the last page or so and Charlie made a good recommendation of which I can't remember.

.
 
Harry, ty for the info on the creeper install.

As far as the "O" cc ive messaged the guy selling it to find out info. This is what I got back. Ser # is 58049 and has no attachments with it.
 
Wayne I agree, I think im going to take a look at it and offer a Benjamin and see what he says...id go as high as $150 but rather get it cheaper .
 
Harry,

Taking the creeper out that way is good,I have done that,but Amy wants to put one in,so splitting the tractor is the way to go.Besides,the gasket for the creeper,it is important that you get it on correctly.
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Lew - been awhile since I installed a Creeper but I don't remember ever splitting the tractor. I never liked trying to man-handle moving the rearend around even with that BIG Crescent Wrench on the draw bar, as they show in the Service Manual.

Amy - one additional thing that could help is once the engine, clutch assembly and rockshaft are removed, then tilt the tractor up on it's tail, make sure it's well stabilized, and then install the Creeper. Much easier than laying on your back, and it will help the gasket and Creeper fall down into place, rather than fall on the floor.

On that "O", seeing it is going to be worth a lot but I like your pricing idea. If this unit does not run, been sitting a long long time, and has the problems you mention, it will likely have other problems as well. I'd go with what Wayne said - offer a Benjamin to haul it away.

Uncle Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - in that pic you posted of the underside of an Original, how come everything is painted up nicely except that return spring and 2 bolts on the drive shaft?
 
Amy-

I'd also recommend splitting the tractor to install the creeper. All it takes once the clutch is out is the removal of 6 bolts and one piece of brake linkage. It is very easy to do with a small floor jack under the trans and a jackstand under each footrest.

Harry-

You'd rather stand the tractor on end and try to keep it that way than "manhandle the transmission with a crescent wrench"?
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That's one way to turn a 1-person job into a 3-person job, I guess...
 

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Matt and Lew - well, I should have also said if you have a chain hoist or similar it isn't to hard to stabilize the tractor.
 
A Trans split is pretty simple by the book......I agree, don't know why you'd want to hang it like a side of beef when you could just roll out the rear end........to each their own though!
 

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