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belliott

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I am rebuilding the clutch on my 1000 and have a question about the throw out bearing.

I am looking at a couple of sources for parts. I see two different throw out bearings. The first is shorter bearing P/N IH-391237-R91 or 941-3056:

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k194/Bob95065/1000%20Trans%20Maintenance/Short%20TO%20Bearing_zpsevvrsdfv.png

The second is longer and has a grease zerk. It is PN/ IH-106386-C91 or 703-0600:

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k194/Bob95065/1000%20Trans%20Maintenance/Long%20TO%20Bearing_zpsluvbtaz0.png

My tractor has a short round section that has a grease zerk on it.

Which throw out bearing should I get? I would think that it would be the short one since my clutch already has a zerk on it. I thought I would ask here before I bought parts.
 

dchapel

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I have ac48 sweepster for barrow frame.I am trying to get info on.thank you.
 

digger

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You never know what you'll find on the web, LOL
Look real close, it's a pretty cool setup.
302296.jpg
 

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jbaker

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that 1650 is sweet loader and grader blade
 

mgonitzke

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Bob E.-

You want the shorter one. I have never actually seen the one with the steel sleeve, grease fitting, and ball bearing pressed onto it in a tractor. I bought one once for my 582 and changed back to the older style (941-3056). The 703-0600 is a pretty terrible design in my opinion; the edge of the outer bearing race will wear into the throwout arm badly, and as I recall, mine didn't even fit right.
 

dlbarnett

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I like the cross brace that ties the uprights together on that loader.
As far as the clutch arm mount for narrow frames, I welded a piece of angle iron right to the frame of the 106 sgt. It doesn't show from up top. But I'm not real concerned about it being original, just strong.
 

sblunier

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Just don't high center that loader tractor on the center blade when working in rough ground!

I always thought a Gannon on the back of a loader would be the cats butt! Front/rear box blade, scarifier, and the loader!!!!
 

belliott

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Thanks for the info on the T/O bearing. Now I have another question:

m I better off with a carbon steel or stainless steel drive shaft? What are the benefits of a SS shaft (besides no rust)?
 

rbeem

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Anybody know the torque specs for a Sunstrand 15 hydro. case?
I'm just not finding it and I'm stuck using my itty bitty phone.
 

mgwin

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Bob E.

I would go with the carbon steel. Stainless is softer and will break/wear quicker.
Also, stainless will rust, depending on the grade.
The higher the grade of stainless, the softer it is.
Stainless is not 100% stainless. There is a blend of stainless and steel/alloy mixture. The lower the grade, the more steel it has. I have seen stainless rust like crazy!
thumbsup_old.gif
 

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belliott

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I took the clutch out today and tore it down. I need a full rebuild. The clutch was slipping and I found out why. The shaft had steps in it from wear and the teaser spring cup was getting hung up when I let it out.

My lubricating bushing (part 28 on Partstree) is worn. Both ends show wear. When I click that part it is $52.84 and comes up throwout bearing.

I think the long bearing with the zerk is supposed to be a replacement for the bushing and bearing. Is this correct?

I could turn this one down to get rid of the ridges. That would also mean less holding force for the clutch because I am decreasing the length of the bushing.

I also could make a new one. It looks like a slug or round bar stock with a hole down the length and a zerk. Is there anything special about the material the bushing was made of?
 

digger

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Bob E.
That's not to bad for the throw out bearing, LOL
Only $8.00 over suggested retail, go for it.

Houtz and I better raise our prices to keep up with the big boys.
 

belliott

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Thanks for the reply Charlie but I may not have been clear with what I was asking.

My tractor has a short T/O bearing and a lubricating bushing. The bushing looks like a short length of pipe with a hole drilled in it and a zerk. My bushing is worn.

When I checked the listing for the bushing it came up with the part # of the T/O bearing with the grease zerk. Is this T/O bearing a replacement for the short bearing and lube bushing?
 

digger

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The 703-0600 replaces that small bushing #28 on tractors Serial No. 612808 & above.

It's actually both according to the Parts Lookup at Cub Cadet,
703-0600 Bushing, Lubricating | (Serial No. 612808 & above)
711-3039 USE 703-0600 BEARING-THROWOUT
711-3114 USE 703-0600 BEARING-THROWOUT
IH-106386-C91 USE 703-0600 BEARING-THROWOUT
IH-126445-C1 USE 703-0600 BEARING-THROWOUT
 

mgonitzke

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So is the 941-3056 NLA? I am still not convinced that 703-0600 actually works as a replacement for it, regardless of what Cub Cadet says, based on my experience with one.

Bob E.-

I would get the 941-3056 bearing if you can, repair your existing bushing, and then use a split lock collar behind the spring instead of the roll pin to compress it. That way, you can compress the spring the same amount as before you had to shorten the bushing.

By the way, the bushing is in the wrong place in the parts diagram...
 

belliott

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I have S/N 613972 so it makes sense that I would have it.

Matt, if the IPL is wrong where does the bushing go?
 

digger

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Having never had a 1000 or even seen the underside of one.
I'm thinking they replaced parts 3 and 28 with the 703-0600.
Surely someone out there has one with the spacer and bearing in the 2 piece version.
 

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