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Archive through January 08, 2010
- Thread starter klejeune
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
DEAN - re. 129 engine, K301 bored .030" O/S already.... If I remember correctly there are "SOME" K321 blocks that were used to make K301's, On the "PTO end" of the block, towards the grill behind the starter/generator pulley will be the numbers 321 etched into the cast surface. Those blocks can be bored to 3.500" bore. I may be confusing this with K241's(3-1/4" bore) made with K301 castings.
ANYHOW, most any good automotive machine shop should be able to machine & install a liner or sleeve into your block to allow you to use a standard sized (3.375") piston in your K301.
The problem with boring a K301 oversize to 3-1/2" bore is there isn't enough wall thickness between the cyl. bore and the bottom of the cooling fins on the outside of the block. It would run for a while, but eventally heat and stress could crack the block and the cyl. head and top of the block would crack off. If it was a parade tractor which would never work hard it would be O-K, but not a "Working" tractor. Once it cracks & fails the whole block is junk. Thinks like the crankshaft, cam, etc would be O-K however.
ANYHOW, most any good automotive machine shop should be able to machine & install a liner or sleeve into your block to allow you to use a standard sized (3.375") piston in your K301.
The problem with boring a K301 oversize to 3-1/2" bore is there isn't enough wall thickness between the cyl. bore and the bottom of the cooling fins on the outside of the block. It would run for a while, but eventally heat and stress could crack the block and the cyl. head and top of the block would crack off. If it was a parade tractor which would never work hard it would be O-K, but not a "Working" tractor. Once it cracks & fails the whole block is junk. Thinks like the crankshaft, cam, etc would be O-K however.
I know I have seen it in the forum before and remember half of what to do but can anyone provide me with the instructions of removing the steering wheel of a 100 with a (second?) nut threaded half way, hit it with a blunt object, then pull like an bandit?
Thanks in advance and I know I have read the procedure close to 8 times but I am going to remove tonight. Degreaser has been applied last night.
Thanks in advance and I know I have read the procedure close to 8 times but I am going to remove tonight. Degreaser has been applied last night.
Dennis
I didn't think of that. I just noticed the head bolts had some distance from the bore. I read the bore on the 14 hp was 3.50 and the heads are all the same. However I didnt begin to think about how thick the casting was on the base end of the cylinder. I'm not familiar with cub cadets at all, but learning fast. Thanks for the info I will check for those numbers.
Dean
I didn't think of that. I just noticed the head bolts had some distance from the bore. I read the bore on the 14 hp was 3.50 and the heads are all the same. However I didnt begin to think about how thick the casting was on the base end of the cylinder. I'm not familiar with cub cadets at all, but learning fast. Thanks for the info I will check for those numbers.
Dean
Brian M., in the FAQ are a couple of write ups on how to best remove the steering wheels.
FAQ Entry 13
CUB FAQ entry 18b
FAQ Entry 13
CUB FAQ entry 18b
We got hit with about 8" of snow last night, just got 3hrs of seat time with the "O" plowing, sorry no pics, I still can't get my crapy camera to work. Maybe I should haul the laptop out side and use the web cam?
Dean, Last Sept I measured 3 blocks at a machine shop a 10, one block with 301 cast into the block bored to 241 spec. and a 14. I measured the bore at thinnest area I could find externally. Base of the cylindeer inbetween the fins. The 10 without 301 cast into the block was thinner (to thin) but of the other 2 One was 3.96 and the 321 3.97. It would be worth finding out what you have.
We got about 3-5 inches of dry snow. Piece of cake. I made a pile to see what the 104 was gonna do. It's handling everything. Bar tread with chains on a sidewalk... no problem. Bar tread on the front mounted the same direction as the rears.. no problems. And I tried to create some just to see. I *love* my Cub Cadet!!!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wound up plowing our 5" with the 580/582, as the pulley somehow worked loose on the QA36A on the 782 and walked backwards on the shaft, causing the belt to roll over.
That's the 5th belt that thing has destroyed. I'm going to add a second setscrew and a locking collar before next winter, as well as make sure there isn't a bunch of wear in the sliding portion of the thrower...the gearbox seems to tilt a bit when I tighten the belt. Looks like I'll just keep the 580 since no one seems to want it, and turn it into a 682 and put the loader on it. I have all the pieces, but who knows when I'll have time to work on it. I'm at the time in my education where I need to find an internship for the summer, so unless I wind up close to home...this is gonna be on the back burner for awhile, just like the hydraulic lift and Cat-0 for my 582, the Cat-0 sod cutter, cab for the 782, and finding that $%#! oil into antifreeze leak on the head of the diesel...
Oh well, maybe I'll have more time when I get out of college and get a job
Oh well, maybe I'll have more time when I get out of college and get a job
My son bought a 50 inch deck from a wide frame cadet. He is very adement that he wants to put it on a 122. The center pulley does not line up when you slide it underneath. Has anyone tried this? He bought the deck without my looking at it first, so this is a BIG learning experience for him (and me as well). If anyone has any suggestions you can send me an email directly by looking at my profile.
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks,
Tom
mfrade
Well-known member
Hey, Don T. - Thanks for the P.N.'s and I am curious if you've installed 'em yet? If so, how do you like them? I think we all agree that it's a PITA to remount the deal, and, when their weighted it's even worse! I was thinking of doing two studs like my Kubotas have. It really helps to align the wheel.
lkortkamp
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Larry
Well, NE Ohio got our 6+ inches last night. Fired up the 149 and took to the drive. Man, I can't say enough about the POWER and ability for this old girl to push that 54" blade full of snow without even 1/3 throttle. Being the third snow in a week the piles were getting tall so I had to power it up to move them back. I even went over to the neighbors and did their drive since they are out of town. Only bad news was slipping the front end off the pavement(into the gully) and getting it stuck, sorta. Wouldn't pull itself back out so I had to remove the blade so it would be light enough to pull up. Put the blade back on and continued, but was very careful how far I pushed the snow off the drive.
Hearing talk on here the other day about POWER ANGLE I got my Northern Tool catalog out and was poking around the cylinder selection. I know it needs to be short to fit up and their shortest closed was 16". I went out to the tractor and started to measure it up. I even looked at the factory hydraulic lift cylinder to see it's open/closed lengths(17" and 12" approx). Still way too long to fit. It needs something in the range of 9-10" closed to fit where I'm assuming it goes. The short length would then make the open length even shorter, but you can adjust the leverage angle placement(I think). It should have plenty of power to move it even with a very short leverage point.
I also looked at electric soleniod to actuate it. A simple toggle switch(spring center) would make a neat way to operate it. A big manual spool valve is kinda clumsy and not needed. The two parts would be around $200 (on special right now). Then just tap off hydro lines for fluid, some 1/2 steel line run to the front, two quick connects and it would be a clean set up, almost looking factory if done right.
I'm still trying to locate a cylinder that would fit the dimensions. I wonder what IH used to tilt the blade? What were the dimensions of the cylinder.
YES....I love my CUB!!
Hearing talk on here the other day about POWER ANGLE I got my Northern Tool catalog out and was poking around the cylinder selection. I know it needs to be short to fit up and their shortest closed was 16". I went out to the tractor and started to measure it up. I even looked at the factory hydraulic lift cylinder to see it's open/closed lengths(17" and 12" approx). Still way too long to fit. It needs something in the range of 9-10" closed to fit where I'm assuming it goes. The short length would then make the open length even shorter, but you can adjust the leverage angle placement(I think). It should have plenty of power to move it even with a very short leverage point.
I also looked at electric soleniod to actuate it. A simple toggle switch(spring center) would make a neat way to operate it. A big manual spool valve is kinda clumsy and not needed. The two parts would be around $200 (on special right now). Then just tap off hydro lines for fluid, some 1/2 steel line run to the front, two quick connects and it would be a clean set up, almost looking factory if done right.
I'm still trying to locate a cylinder that would fit the dimensions. I wonder what IH used to tilt the blade? What were the dimensions of the cylinder.
YES....I love my CUB!!
Larry Kortkam
I have a tractor here that will have power angle by next winter. you might have been able to get a stuck tractor out with the power angle. I will make it strong so it will push the tractor,,lol . stronger must be better
Later Don T
I have a tractor here that will have power angle by next winter. you might have been able to get a stuck tractor out with the power angle. I will make it strong so it will push the tractor,,lol . stronger must be better
Later Don T
Mike Frade
I just might do that also ,two per wheel should help a lot. I don`t know why IH didn`t use pins in the flat face on the axle. That would work great also. I guess it was all $$$ and the competition lol
Later Don T
I just might do that also ,two per wheel should help a lot. I don`t know why IH didn`t use pins in the flat face on the axle. That would work great also. I guess it was all $$$ and the competition lol
Later Don T
lkortkamp
Well-known member
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- Apr 7, 2009
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- 280
- displayname
- Larry
Well, the "lift" arm wouldn't have been strong enough to lift the nose without kinking in the middle!! I was just glad I was able to get it free as it was in the middle of the street LOL!!
I looked at electric acutator units, but same problem PLUS they are very, very slow. We're talking 30 seconds full sweep................zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz........is it there yet?? LOL!!
You could use a longer cylinder, but I want to mount it to the center frame, not the blade as it is spring loaded. Any time it would kick from hitting something it would move the angle. Not a major deal, but I don't think I want it set up that way.
I looked at electric acutator units, but same problem PLUS they are very, very slow. We're talking 30 seconds full sweep................zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz........is it there yet?? LOL!!
You could use a longer cylinder, but I want to mount it to the center frame, not the blade as it is spring loaded. Any time it would kick from hitting something it would move the angle. Not a major deal, but I don't think I want it set up that way.
bbrigham
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- Sep 4, 2006
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- Brendan Brigham
I've thought about using liner actuators too for angle. The slow angle speed I think I could live with but I'm not so sure they could stand up to the abuse. A constant push may be alright but the shock of hitting something like a chunk of ice frozen to the ground may strip the gears pretty fast.
