Archive through February 21, 2013

[rrschmitt]

Bill J,

I'd just by a new or a good used wire harness and set of battery cables for a 1X8/9 series Cub Cadet if you want to move the battery and and voltage reg under the seat. Be a lot easier and cheaper than making your own when you consider your time. The sponsors above can fix you right up. You will have to drill some holes in the tool box pan under the seat for wires to pass through, mount the reg and secure the battery.

 

[kharvey]

Bill J I made a wiring harness for a 127 a few years ago. By the time I bought the wire and terminals and some wire loom I would have been much better to buy one. I spent all of a Saturday getting it right. When I replaced the one in my 147 all I had to do was loosen the engine a little to thread it along the frame. The whole job was maybe an hour or so. And it all fit perfectly.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - I was burning out the contact points in the V/R of my 72 about every two years when it was located on the top back side of the grill. Voltage regulators do not like heat & vibration! I moved the V/R back under the plate the seat spring bolts to just about twnety yrs ago and I've not had a single problem with the V/R since, cool, no vibration!
And I didn't modify the OEM wire harness one bit. It was long enough to reach all the way back. In fact I can't remember even disconnecting it, just unhooking the battery. So the OEM harness works for relocating the V/R.

On moving the battery, you'll have to try that yourself. I know the small "L" terminal L&G batterys barely fit under the seat the way it is. I use a small L&G battery in my 982, but use a Grp 26 car battery in my two NF's. NO way would a grp 26 fit under the seat.

By the time you add up the costs of all the short lengths of various size & colors of wire to make your own harness, and the various terminal ends, it makes the cost of a new harness pretty cheap. Plus co's that make harnesses have the right equipment to crimp terminals properly. If you solder and heat-shrink every connection you could make a decent harness but it still disqualifies your from a "100-point Restoration". If you think you'd use the same color & gauge of wire for everything, then you should just stop thinking about making your own harness right now. How would anyone else ever track down wiring problems? I bought a new harness for my 70 I'm working on right now. Money well spent IMO.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis - thanks for the info on the hydraulics. So it sounds and looks like that 149 probably would handle that bucket and hoe quite well.

Bill J - on your harness, getting a new one is probably money well spent as Dennis really noted. And to clarify one other point, if you want the 100 point restoration then you'll have to retain the sheathing from your current harness so you have the correct style and have the correct yellow paint over spray. The new replacement harnesses don't come "oversprayed" that I know of. (This probably falls into the area of a 110 point restoration on a 100 point scale)

.

 

[bwittman]

Dave,

The last I heard, Rexall is out of the retail business and are on-line only. Perhaps they have something. I think the old Chrysler, or Desoto, or whatever product of Walter's is sitting there needs to be moved outside. No Cub cadet should have to endure weather.

 

[bjamison]

Thanks everyone for the info on the wiring harness!

Harry B - I'm not going for a 100% restore on this tractor - yet, but for now, going for a 100% refurb - such that it starts and gets the dat-gum job done 100% of the time...

 

[lcarter]

For Harry's 110 point, if I remember correctly the pictures of the Cub Cadet chassis paint area showed the chassis's nose up so the runs would have to be from front to rear and angled somewhat.

 

[thoffman]

I'd rather have me happy about the "100% Working Tractor" that I'm geting something done with than the "100-point Restoration" tractor sitting in the line up or on the trailer.

 

[dschwandt]

OK....Anyone have a reccomendation for a machine shop in the Cedar Rapids-Dubuque-Manchester IA area to do a tank-hone-valve& rod/piston/ring job on a K321??

I checked w/MidwestSuperCub in Welton, IA this morning and they really didn't want to mess with a run of the mill stock rebuild as they don't carry the parts for one. Besides this is their busiest time of year for the hot rod set I guess.

Brian: The Chrysler going out in the weather???!!!??? THAT ain't gonna happen!! Matter of fact, it is what I should have been working on this past year! Dern Yellow/white fever any how!! It's a '57 Chrysler 300C powered by a 392 CID Hemi. Mostly original and about 90% of the way ready for paint.

Dave S.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian W - hey thanks for the point on Rexall. I wondered why I hadn't seen one in a long time. Back in the day we only had 2 drug stores in my home town, one Rexall and one no brand name, and my folks stuck with the brand name. For me, well I always went there and bought my cinammon flavored toothpicks. The good ole days.

Larry C - hey good point on the paint runs. When I do a 110 pointer inspection I really only ever looked to make sure the harness had some overspray. I'll be looking little closer in the furture.

Bill J - ya I knew you weren't. If you do still want to put the battery and V/R in the tool box under the seat you're gonna have to look at flipping the tray covering it - which the seat springs are bolted to. The original positioning of the tray won't give enough clearance for the battery terminals. I always thought it a little odd that for the 1x6/7 series IH had that tray in that position, and then basically turned it over for the wide frame and other series after that. You might have to get the tray from a wide frame to use it in that position.

Tom - I know what you mean - but I also believe you have a few "worker" tractors, and at least one or more that are pretty good looking tractors, that I think mostly sit and do show work. Seems I recall a red one with BIG INTERNATIONAL lettering on the hood.

Ah, David S - I think you left a muffler clamp from your 300 laying on the seat of that new CCC unit.

 

[dtanner]

OK you wanted an up date on my 125 engine.I took the engine out of the 125 yesterday and remove the breather and base pan.This told me that the cam to crank timming was is correct. I then turned the engine over to TDC and rolled it just a bit more so the valve would fall off the arc and checked the valve settings. they are good also.I put the base pan back on and breather cover and put the engine back into my 125. Now here is were I`am baffled

Using a meeter attached to the - side of the coil and to the point base I turn the engine over with spark plug removed The tomming comes way off. I set the points at 16 and I get no close to the mark I made on the pto pulley basket. I made a red line accost the PTO basket pulley and use a pointer to the red mark so I can see these align to tell me when the "S" mark is showing in the fan shroud. So I`am about an 1" away from the "S" mark when I rotate the engine toward the T mark.At that point the meter tells me the points have opened and my meeter beeps.I`am set at 16 ?? what setting would get this to line up closer to the "S" mark .. Sould I try 12 ???

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - you're getting closer. I'm gonna say your points need to be "open" more, to 20 or 22.
I've just had a unit where the points were even close to 16. I know it does seem to conflict with the method you're using - meaning it would seem you should close them some to get the timing closer to the S mark - but for some reason I think it's gonna be the other way around, and opening the points is gonna fix it.

 

[kostendorf]

Donald, I just set my points using this method and came up with .026 gap. I don't have the engine back in yet. Still waiting for oil pan.

 

[kostendorf]

They should be .020-.025

 

[thoffman]

The 120 w/rear flat belt has been running the feed grinder for the last few years, done a few local plow days, has had the #40 box scraper and rear blade on doing some backfilling and grading here at the homestead. It only sits in the winter.

 

[lpalma]

Don T

Whilest you were looking at the innerds of your motor..
Did you see if the cam lobe for the points had any wear?

Go bigger on the setting like Mr Harry says.

 

[dtanner]

Ok I tried 23 and it did start with choke and idle ; but will stumble and stall when I try to rev it up.I think I will try 25 . I is annoying is it did this days ago before I took it apart to check everything. So close but yet so far or

(1 step forward 2 steps back ) now you all know why I say that !

 

[jharvey]

Don
I really liked your idea the other day about moving the carb from your 129 to the 125. Did you do that and what were the results? What one one part on a Kohler engine has high speed and low speed passages? I think maybe you're letting this get to you too much.

 

[dtanner]

LOL Set at 25 it will go off idle and rev up but not want to idle. So here goes 24 and see what happens. This could be all carb issue from here on . I will pull the carb of my 129 loader in the am and see what happens. I did have to turn the hight speed screw way in from the 3 1/4 turs my chart says to start with

 

[dtanner]

Lewis Do-Da Palma

I bought this 125 from over your way . It had new valves and valve guides and a .20 over bore . The crank had been turned down .10 under and a new rod. there was a scratch in the bore . So when I bought it I re-bored it from .20 to .30 and another new piston and rings. I had to find a head and all the tin for the head,gas tank and brackets. I never did check to see what the point push rod area was like on the cam .
I sure don`t see how Charlie can get them to run at 14 . I set these points up so many times and know I know I`am closer to correct. I will put the battery in my loader and start it and let it run some in the Cub shed before I pull it to install on the 125. If my 129 runs good then I can go from there with this carb.This carb I got from PA ( Ray Weaver)and it had rust in the bowl and I thought I had it cleaned but I can`t be sure.

I will report back in the am . Later Don T