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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Harry B - you are correct again...
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I checked the seat pan bracket between my 126 and 1650 and while there are some slight differences, I should be able to turn the pan on my 126 and locate the battery under the seat - same as my 109 and 1650.
 
All of this Hydro Vs. Gear drive talk lately made me go buy another tractor...........
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Steve,

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

All of this Hydro Vs. Gear drive talk lately made me go buy another tractor...........
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<font size="-1">Photos or it didn't happen...</font>

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Dave,

I'll stand corrected on the Chrysler. A 300 nearly original is a rare one, indeed!

Back on topic, I had to get the old Cub Cadet 268 out this evening to blow out the mess that the city left in my driveway. The new Snapper couldn't handle it. I haven't used it in three years and I put a cup full of gasoline in it, set the choke, pulled the rope twice and it started. I blew the mess into the driveway, then used the Snapper to blow the snow away. I cannot wait for spring. The Nightmare awaits.
 
Steve, Mr. Plow - hey, bet you didn't realize you fell for one of the oldest tricks in the book. When nothing is selling all ya gotta do is start hyping up the differences and yup, somebody goes and starts buying'm again. Well, I certainly hope it was another Hydro. You need to start getting a 149 ready for a demo. AND I do agree with Kraig - we need pics.

Don T - my apologies for my message. Upon re-reading I left out the word never meaning "I just never had a unit where the points were close to 16", is what I meant to say. And I also don't think Charlie said he set his at 14. I think he said he uses a match book cover so whatever that is, 14 or 20. It's actually 20 or used to be.
You know, I'll bet your problem is really the carb. I know you used that ultrasonic cleaner and you think it works wonderful, and it may well BUT it also depends on what is stuck, lodged, blocking, what ever got into the carb. I had the carb on my 169 full of sand (yes it layed on it's side for quite some time and the sand was packed into it). There are several very tiny passages that you really can't get into. You can get part way with a good strong paint brush bristle that you can't break, and maybe you even have a stiff really thin wire. I like to start off by completely tearing it apart even the main jet if you can get it out, then soaking the carb in cleaner, and I mean drowning it for at least 30-60 minutes, and then use one of those straw tubes on the nozzle of a can of carb cleaner, and go after every hole you can see. Twist that straw around until you can get it into the holes inside the carb, then use the wire or bristle in the holes to make sure they are clean. I'm gonna go out on a limb but I think when you set your point gap to 22 or 23 and install your known good carb you're gonna find your engine will run fine, and your carb setting should be 2 to 2 1/2 turn open on the high speed needle and 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 on the idle speed.
Good luck with it.

Bill J - thank you, but was there ever any real question of me being correct
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- I do think you may have missed my closing comment tho where I said "You might have to get the tray from a wide frame to use it in that position". The edges of the 1x6/7 tray are not rolled over like the edges of the W/F or QL so the 6/7 tray may be more likely to bend, and you'll have to have some BIGGER rubber bumpers to keep it just off the fenders.
And by the way, if you're gonna get the wiring harness from a 1x8/9 to use in the 126, then make sure you study it up for color coding compared to your 126, and what connects where. I think you'll have to change the key switch connector to the correct plug and may have 1 less wire - it could get confusing but it can be done.
 
Charlie

That must be difficult to do. Set the timing while the engine is running.Just how do you do that. If the Cub had dwell points like a car it would be real easy I think.I do think I will have a great running cub when I get all the bugs out of the 125. It has been one stubborn tractor so far.
 
Don T.
Working on Cubs, you should never be without a wedge driver, especially when putting the screws in points covers, LOL
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Charlie

a wedge driver ? is that a trade name. Or ?

Never heard of one !
 
Don T.
Just Google wedge screwdriver.
I've had one or more since the late 60's, LOL
You never drop a screw and they work great for setting points on running engines, cause it grips and hangs on so you can tighten the points down.
 
Charlie - that wedge screw driver is a "Must Have" for any W/F or QL owner, and a "Better Have" for any N/F owner. And as for your bet, whose taking it? I want in line right behind you - there ain't no way you're gonna loose.
 
Don-
I know I'm changing my tune when I say this, but after reading everything you've done with the points-settings it does sound like this could in fact be a carb issue. A guy shouldn't have to chase around point settings as much as you are. You've pretty much tried it at every setting, and it's obviously not having an effect on the issue. If it doesn't run at .025, it's not going to run at .024.

I gotta agree with Harry when he said this:
You know, I'll bet your problem is really the carb. I know you used that ultrasonic cleaner and you think it works wonderful, and it may well BUT it also depends on what is stuck, lodged, blocking, what ever got into the carb.

I've always used the "soak it for 8hrs" technique and have never had a problem. Swap out that carb and let us know what happens.

Steve-
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Don-
After going back and re-reading your previous messages, I just have to check. Are you setting these points to .25....................or .025?

That ZERO at the beginning is pretty important. No Kohler is going to run with a .25 points setting.

Just checking your math..
 
ART - I don't think the points lobe on the cam is that big. But with Don you never know.
 
Home of the Plow Special

Art , I`am all most 61 years old and have done many repairs on my motorcycles and all other small engines.I have never had an engine that caused me this much grief.I`am not the most stupid stick in the pile
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. It is 32 deg here ,but I will go in my unheated storage shed and remove the Carb from my 129 loader and install it on my 125.This carb Ray weaver sold me and he sold me junk . I had hopes of a cleaning would do it but now I see that will not work. I know there are pasages in a carb that one can not clean unless you remove the welsh plugs and then replace them after the passages have been cleaned. I did not do that and I think most people do not go that far. I will pop the plug out today just to see how bad that area is.

Denny ;( But with Don you never know.)

"THANKS"

Charlie ; I trust you that the "wedge driver" is such a great tool that I will have them.

Out in the cold in 1 HR.
 
Harry - I saw the lip on the seat pan on the 1650. Without a doubt you need something to keep the reversed pan from coming down on the battery terminals. I'm not sure I'd use a rubber bumper as over time they could deflect and you could get a spark! Wonder if it's time to part out the 1650 in order to get a seat pan...
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Quick question - what is the purpose of the 3 wire springs on the clutch that attach to the 3 pins going through the clutch assy from the engine side and clamp over top of the clutch disk? Is this some kind of anti-rattle thing or does it help pull the clutch apart when disengaged?
 
Bill Jamison

I bet those three springs are to keep the clutch from rattling .
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Don T

welsh plugs are fun....

can't clean a carb properly w/o removing them...
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Don-
Trust me, we all know who the most stupid stick in the pile is, and it's certainly NOT you!
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If it helps, I've cleaned out many carbs and never pulled the welch plugs out. They're a PAIN to deal with! If it ends up being a bad carb, then try soaking it overnight in a good carb-cleaner. That should loosen up anything that's in there. Welch areas included.

Speaking of "dumbest stick in the pile", I once had a 100 that I did a carb clean-out on. The fuel line elbow going into the carb was really rusty inside and I didn't have any new ones, so I cleaned the old one out with some 0000-steel wool. It was nice and shiney, but the tractor wouldn't run for $%^* after that. It took me all afternoon to figure out, but in the end I found that about half of the steel wool had torn off and was still stuck in that fuel elbow. Cleaned it out and it ran like a champ. The moral is that in my case, I couldn't fix stupid! (In this case I was the short stick in the stupid pile)
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