Mick M, I did have the wires disconnected. When it would not start I grabbed the wiring diagram and began looking at the connections. They are all connected to the correct locations. Thanks for the thought
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Archive through February 10, 2012
- Thread starter mfrade
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
New information, I tested my dads 1450 with a multimeter at the coil. Red connector clamped onto the positive terminal of the coil, black connector clamped onto the negative of the battery.
Turn the key to on/run and get 12+ volts
Turn the key to start mode and get a reading of 9-13 volts bouncing
Tested my 1450 connected the same way again
Turn the key to on/run and get 12+ voltage
Turn the key to start mode and get a reading of 0 volts
I already tried a different key switch I had on the shelf. I don’t know the history of that stitch though.
I guess I will have to start tracing the wiring unless someone has a different idea.
Thank, Rich
Turn the key to on/run and get 12+ volts
Turn the key to start mode and get a reading of 9-13 volts bouncing
Tested my 1450 connected the same way again
Turn the key to on/run and get 12+ voltage
Turn the key to start mode and get a reading of 0 volts
I already tried a different key switch I had on the shelf. I don’t know the history of that stitch though.
I guess I will have to start tracing the wiring unless someone has a different idea.
Thank, Rich
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Richard, I hope you can benefit from the 2 years I spent trouble-shooting starting issues on my 782. When the key is turned to the momentary "Start" position, the battery terminal must be connected to the starter terminal and the ignition terminal --period.
If the switch is making the right connections OFF the tractor, it must also make the right connections ON the tractor.
So check to verify that the "Battery" terminal is connected to the battery, and that the "Starter" terminal is connected to the starter, and that the "Ignition" terminal is connected to the (+) side of the coil.
Finally, verify that the terminals at the "plug" are matching up the the terminals on the key switch.
This last step tripped me up for two years.
The copper terminals can be moved in the plug by using a small screw driver to depress the locking tab and pulling the wire out. This is sometimes done to allow a non-original key to work in an existing wire harness.
Good luck. I think that either you have an issue at the switch, or there is a problem from the key switch to the coil.
Edit: By-the-way, I think you're doing an excellent job of trouble-shooting the problem so far.
If the switch is making the right connections OFF the tractor, it must also make the right connections ON the tractor.
So check to verify that the "Battery" terminal is connected to the battery, and that the "Starter" terminal is connected to the starter, and that the "Ignition" terminal is connected to the (+) side of the coil.
Finally, verify that the terminals at the "plug" are matching up the the terminals on the key switch.
This last step tripped me up for two years.
The copper terminals can be moved in the plug by using a small screw driver to depress the locking tab and pulling the wire out. This is sometimes done to allow a non-original key to work in an existing wire harness.
Good luck. I think that either you have an issue at the switch, or there is a problem from the key switch to the coil.
Edit: By-the-way, I think you're doing an excellent job of trouble-shooting the problem so far.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Richard-
You have two bad ignition switches. If it was the wiring, you'd never have 12V at the coil, regardless of the switch position. Because you have 12V in the 'run' position, the switch isn't making contact in the start position.
You have two bad ignition switches. If it was the wiring, you'd never have 12V at the coil, regardless of the switch position. Because you have 12V in the 'run' position, the switch isn't making contact in the start position.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Richard - I'm right there with Matt and Jeremiah, and be aware there are some key switches out there that look exactly the same - they have terminals in the same positions so the plug fits right on - but the Start, Ignition and Battery terminals are not the same locations as the original switch. I believe the back of the switch has the terminals marked with an S, and I, and other letter indicators. Good luck with this one.
Charlie - that new QL muffler sure looks nice. Looks like a life-time set up to me. As Tom mentions, I do wonder how they sound compared to the original mufflers.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but occassionally get their wires crossed and start singing a different tune)
Charlie - that new QL muffler sure looks nice. Looks like a life-time set up to me. As Tom mentions, I do wonder how they sound compared to the original mufflers.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but occassionally get their wires crossed and start singing a different tune)
mgerecke
Well-known member
That new QL muffler looks great! Does it fit behind the grill? My 1250 is a later one with no hole for the exhaust outlet.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Mark - I guess Charlie will have to measure and or check somehow and let you know but if I recall your the pipe coming out of your muffler will only be about 1" long and the new one looks like it's around 3". Seems like you could just cut it off to fit behind your grill (I wouldn't cut a hole in the grill). I'd leave it a little longer than the original one to help from getting all the blackening.
Tom - ooh, those were the days. Bryan seems to have his pics blocked now or something, so I could only get one of his 169 and if you look close you can see the double stack set-up (one stack is partial blocked from view by the M59 Chipper).
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Tom - ooh, those were the days. Bryan seems to have his pics blocked now or something, so I could only get one of his 169 and if you look close you can see the double stack set-up (one stack is partial blocked from view by the M59 Chipper).
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
TOM - Back about 1965/1966 I got a pair of VW Beetle muffler resonators for Christmas. Dad brazed together a "Tee" and put twin stacks on the K161 in the #70 for me. There was a loose fitting baffle in them that rattled loose after a short time..... But that little K161 just didn't have enought bark to make the twin's really work.
I remember you running "Mein Kub" down the pulling track on the way to the GT plowing demo @ PRPU in Penfield years ago. THAT tractor sounded nice!
Good idea about Aaron making hollow mufflers, think they'd be nice out of some shiny stainless steel.
I remember you running "Mein Kub" down the pulling track on the way to the GT plowing demo @ PRPU in Penfield years ago. THAT tractor sounded nice!
Good idea about Aaron making hollow mufflers, think they'd be nice out of some shiny stainless steel.
