I am aware of at least one K341 13 fin that has been bored to 4", and it is not in a "puller". It's in a "toy" or custom built show type tractor, and there are probably more around that have been bored to the max. How reliable are they you ask.......don't know, could probably depend on your definition of reliable and how the engine was used.
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Archive through February 10, 2012
- Thread starter mfrade
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
While you guys were busy talking about fins I drug this home.
I'm thnking about making a loader tractor out of it unless I can find a good 149. (I'm a bigger fan of that series)
It's a late 1650 ser.no. 654139(no I have not counted fins). I also picked up a 1000 that is just as nice. Been a long time since I've found any nice keeper quality Cubs.
I have a question on steering wheels on these. The 1650 has an 82 series style plastic center cap while all my other QL's have had the 108/149 style with the aluminum "strip".
Is it an owner swap or did some of the late quiet lines get the newer style steering wheels? The tractor seems totally unmolested overall.
It's a late 1650 ser.no. 654139(no I have not counted fins). I also picked up a 1000 that is just as nice. Been a long time since I've found any nice keeper quality Cubs.
I have a question on steering wheels on these. The 1650 has an 82 series style plastic center cap while all my other QL's have had the 108/149 style with the aluminum "strip".
Is it an owner swap or did some of the late quiet lines get the newer style steering wheels? The tractor seems totally unmolested overall.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Rick-
The later QLs had the 82 series wheel. I'd also bet the front spindles are 1" and the rearend is internal brake.
The later QLs had the 82 series wheel. I'd also bet the front spindles are 1" and the rearend is internal brake.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Hey Rick - on the steering wheel, as Matt notes the style used on the 82 series was 1st used mid-way thru the QL production. It wasn't mentioned however, that the center cap should have a silver "IH" on it. I suppose that was also on the 82 series, at least while IH made them.
In the category of FWIW, that is a nice looking 1650 for it's age. Can you tell if it was re-painted at some point? I see some blackening from smoke around the front lower grill housing, and I also noticed the right front headlight is rotated 90degrees. Other than that, where are the pics of you "dancing and singing" on your way home?????
Tom H - ok, ok, ok - we all know you're a gearhead and because IH never put a K341A 16hp engine in a geardrive tractor you have no interest in the number of fins on the blocks. I will try to shorten my inquiries and posts, or maybe even include a comment that you don't need to review it
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and 12hp is enough for at least one gearhead nut in the Chicago area)
In the category of FWIW, that is a nice looking 1650 for it's age. Can you tell if it was re-painted at some point? I see some blackening from smoke around the front lower grill housing, and I also noticed the right front headlight is rotated 90degrees. Other than that, where are the pics of you "dancing and singing" on your way home?????
Tom H - ok, ok, ok - we all know you're a gearhead and because IH never put a K341A 16hp engine in a geardrive tractor you have no interest in the number of fins on the blocks. I will try to shorten my inquiries and posts, or maybe even include a comment that you don't need to review it
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and 12hp is enough for at least one gearhead nut in the Chicago area)
1450 with No Spark Problem, I need help please
History: last Spring the tractor stopped running because of a blown head gasket. Last Month I started working on the repair. Replaced head gasket, replaced the compression relief spring, re-adjusted the exhaust valve to correct gap, intake valve was ok. Nothing else was touched. I also, took the engineless tractor to the car wash for a good hosing.
Installed the engine back into the tractor, connected everything, turn key and it will not start.
Here is what I know / have done:
1. I have an inline (light) tool to see when the spark plug receives a signal from the coil. When turning the key to the start mode, I see one spark as the key is being turned to the start mode and one spark when the key is returning back to run mode. I also tried without the tool inline.
2. Tested the coil with a multimeter across the + / - terminals and have continuity
3. Replaced the spark plug wire with another one I had
4. Turn the key to on/run mode: I have 12+ volts at the coil
5. During the start mode I have 0 volts at the coil
6. Replaced the key switch with a different one, same voltages at the coil
7. I took the cover off the points, they are fairly new and gapped correctly, when trying to start there is no spark at the points.
I have been using an AC battery charger with jump start mode when trying to start the tractor to make sure there is enough voltage.
Right now I am lost.
Rich
History: last Spring the tractor stopped running because of a blown head gasket. Last Month I started working on the repair. Replaced head gasket, replaced the compression relief spring, re-adjusted the exhaust valve to correct gap, intake valve was ok. Nothing else was touched. I also, took the engineless tractor to the car wash for a good hosing.
Installed the engine back into the tractor, connected everything, turn key and it will not start.
Here is what I know / have done:
1. I have an inline (light) tool to see when the spark plug receives a signal from the coil. When turning the key to the start mode, I see one spark as the key is being turned to the start mode and one spark when the key is returning back to run mode. I also tried without the tool inline.
2. Tested the coil with a multimeter across the + / - terminals and have continuity
3. Replaced the spark plug wire with another one I had
4. Turn the key to on/run mode: I have 12+ volts at the coil
5. During the start mode I have 0 volts at the coil
6. Replaced the key switch with a different one, same voltages at the coil
7. I took the cover off the points, they are fairly new and gapped correctly, when trying to start there is no spark at the points.
I have been using an AC battery charger with jump start mode when trying to start the tractor to make sure there is enough voltage.
Right now I am lost.
Rich
Harry,
The 1650 is definately not a repaint but it's in bad need of a tune-up, runs very rich. I'll pulling the motor and doing a decarbon and a full-on tune up. It's in need of some hydro-therapy also....I think the cork gasket is Kaput.
I thought it was odd the the muffler tip exits behind the grill with no cut-out, is this another late change?
All my other QL's exhausts have gone through the grill.
Pictures of me dancing....I try to keep them off the Net.
The 1650 is definately not a repaint but it's in bad need of a tune-up, runs very rich. I'll pulling the motor and doing a decarbon and a full-on tune up. It's in need of some hydro-therapy also....I think the cork gasket is Kaput.
I thought it was odd the the muffler tip exits behind the grill with no cut-out, is this another late change?
All my other QL's exhausts have gone through the grill.
Pictures of me dancing....I try to keep them off the Net.
jbaker
Well-known member
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- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Rick on your exhaust my cub book shows that at serial number 606613 (1977) they switched to a new muffler it was heavier and did not protrude thru the grill.
It also says at serial number 632502 they switched to 1 inch spindles.
and as far as the steering wheel it says the early units used the old 1x8,9 steering wheel, and that the steering gearboxs changed at serial 530858
All this info is from a book on cub cadets
It also says at serial number 632502 they switched to 1 inch spindles.
and as far as the steering wheel it says the early units used the old 1x8,9 steering wheel, and that the steering gearboxs changed at serial 530858
All this info is from a book on cub cadets
Melody, check for a short to ground, will do.
Brian, I hope I don’t have to rewire the tractor, I did look under the dash, took different connectors off/on, wiggle and put them back on thinking there might be a bad connection, nothing there helped.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Brian, I hope I don’t have to rewire the tractor, I did look under the dash, took different connectors off/on, wiggle and put them back on thinking there might be a bad connection, nothing there helped.
Thanks for the suggestions.
hydroharry
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- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Tom H - I know you were just joking, and I was too. How many fins are on your K341A in that 1600? And by the way, with an e-mail like tomslick Id'a sure figured you for a slush-box guy.
Jeff B - what book is that you're refering to. I'm actually aware of 3 mufflers for the QL series but never knew which was which in the production line.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Jeff B - what book is that you're refering to. I'm actually aware of 3 mufflers for the QL series but never knew which was which in the production line.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Jeff B,
Thanks for looking that up. I've never had a later model QL before or they have all been so destroyed that I did not bother to question the little details.
I appreciate more and more that things are only Original- Once. I'm heavy into customizing and tweaking, but finding a clean original condition -anything- is a real relief and joy.
Now I have decisions. I have this 1650,1000,108 (plow tractor),and an Original. I have a Johnson Workhorse loader that I want to mount on something......and NO More room for another tractor (actually one should go). To make the 1650 a keeper, it almost has to be my loader canidate.
If I only had that 50 x 100 machine shed I could have it all!
Thanks for looking that up. I've never had a later model QL before or they have all been so destroyed that I did not bother to question the little details.
I appreciate more and more that things are only Original- Once. I'm heavy into customizing and tweaking, but finding a clean original condition -anything- is a real relief and joy.
Now I have decisions. I have this 1650,1000,108 (plow tractor),and an Original. I have a Johnson Workhorse loader that I want to mount on something......and NO More room for another tractor (actually one should go). To make the 1650 a keeper, it almost has to be my loader canidate.
If I only had that 50 x 100 machine shed I could have it all!
Speaking of QL mufflers, has everyone seen the new HEAVY DUTY welded ones that Cub Cadet sells now?
It's almost twice heavy with welded seams.
It's almost twice heavy with welded seams.
I learned something new looking through some boxes the other day.
Rich Walker,
If replacing your head gasket and the rest of your repair work, If by chance you removed your coil assembly from the motor, make sure you have your 12 volt wire on the positive side of your coil, I've switched them up before
If replacing your head gasket and the rest of your repair work, If by chance you removed your coil assembly from the motor, make sure you have your 12 volt wire on the positive side of your coil, I've switched them up before
