jchamberlin
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Archive through December 30, 2012
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Welcome, Brian F..
The QA-42 won't bolt to 149, it's a narrow frame only piece. You could buy a QA-42A subframe to adapt it, tho... Make sure you don't already hve the adjustable sub, but I doubt it. The NF QA's will hit the nose of the 149 grill when lifted. I Run one on my 149, but I modified the sub frame with a welder and bar stock, and it still hits the nose. more of a PITA than anything else. Look in the manual section for the info on the adjustable subframe
The QA-42 won't bolt to 149, it's a narrow frame only piece. You could buy a QA-42A subframe to adapt it, tho... Make sure you don't already hve the adjustable sub, but I doubt it. The NF QA's will hit the nose of the 149 grill when lifted. I Run one on my 149, but I modified the sub frame with a welder and bar stock, and it still hits the nose. more of a PITA than anything else. Look in the manual section for the info on the adjustable subframe
jchamberlin
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Sean Corder, your picture reminds me of the one Mike Murphy posted back on March 24, 2007 --you guys scare me riding with young kids on the tractor, but I realize it is hard to resist especially because they love it so. Mike and his daughter, then 3 months old (I trust she has survived):
lpalma
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So Charlie,
What # is the one in the middle?
Looks like an early one even, has the small spaces on the rear rims.
What # is the one in the middle?
Looks like an early one even, has the small spaces on the rear rims.
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- Home of the Plow Special
You guys are funny with your comments about the large bearing in the back of my 169 photo. That came from the front wheel of a belly-scraper, and makes a neat door-stop. I notice it's starting to rust, so maybe I should hit it with the wire-wheel and clear coat it to keep it shiney. I can't imagine what that would cost to replace!
Don-
You are correct, that is a ported hydro-pump and a later fine-spline rear end from a yellow and white 782 on that wheeled cart in the background. Also on the cart is the frame from a 147, the sheet-metal from a 123, a hyd-steering valve, and a super-steer front axle. "Someday" I'll be combining all of that and a low-hour 14hp Kohler that's sitting on the shelf into the coolest loader tractor you ever did see!
Charlie-
OK, I give up. Since we know where #518 is at, then what is this one?
Don-
You are correct, that is a ported hydro-pump and a later fine-spline rear end from a yellow and white 782 on that wheeled cart in the background. Also on the cart is the frame from a 147, the sheet-metal from a 123, a hyd-steering valve, and a super-steer front axle. "Someday" I'll be combining all of that and a low-hour 14hp Kohler that's sitting on the shelf into the coolest loader tractor you ever did see!
Charlie-
OK, I give up. Since we know where #518 is at, then what is this one?
Steve Miller, yes you can push start that Model 100 since it's a gear drive. Of course it will then be running off the battery so it has to have a good charge. That knock can be the front pulley or the front PTO. Either way, that pulley would be a good place to start. Good luck.
jchamberlin
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Paul, Lewis, Charlie: I would go with a "4" for the middle number, making it S/N 548 or do we know where that one is too?
Steve M., WELCOME!
You'll want to fix that loose starter pulley ASAP! It WILL trash the crank key slot.
Charlie, that looks like 548 to me.
You'll want to fix that loose starter pulley ASAP! It WILL trash the crank key slot.
Charlie, that looks like 548 to me.
jchamberlin,
Man I hope it dont have to come down. The part that dosnt make any sense is that when the arm is off it spins fine. Put the arm back on it will not turn the shaft. It will spin on the shaft a very lil bit then the shaft moves like it should. when the arm is off the shaft will only turn about a 1/8th inch.In all my manuals it says to hold the arm back turn shaft counterclock wise till it stops then tighten bolt.Is that right? sorry to keep asking for help Thanks Jim
Man I hope it dont have to come down. The part that dosnt make any sense is that when the arm is off it spins fine. Put the arm back on it will not turn the shaft. It will spin on the shaft a very lil bit then the shaft moves like it should. when the arm is off the shaft will only turn about a 1/8th inch.In all my manuals it says to hold the arm back turn shaft counterclock wise till it stops then tighten bolt.Is that right? sorry to keep asking for help Thanks Jim
Tom, I know what you're referring to, but, no, I haven't had that much of a problem. With the Cub Cadet in 3rd and popping the clutch, I've had really good luck. And, you have to find that "sweet spot" between the clutch releasing and the brake engaging. I've also started several by letting them get up speed rolling down hill. Of course, it helps if you live on a hill. LOL
AND NOW FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT!
I have a line on a 129. I believe that the price is reasonable, and my feet were pretty cold when I saw it, so I couldn't/didn't look at it in detail. I do know that the tractor is complete. I did not notice whether, or not, it had a deck, or if it had other accessories. I thought I saw a blade around it, but cannot be sure.
Because I was completely clueless when I bought my 1250 Nightmare; I wonder what I should be looking for in a 129, and what are the things that I should check? At what point should I just walk or run away?
I know, I said that my 1250 would be my first and my last. But....ya' know.
I have a line on a 129. I believe that the price is reasonable, and my feet were pretty cold when I saw it, so I couldn't/didn't look at it in detail. I do know that the tractor is complete. I did not notice whether, or not, it had a deck, or if it had other accessories. I thought I saw a blade around it, but cannot be sure.
Because I was completely clueless when I bought my 1250 Nightmare; I wonder what I should be looking for in a 129, and what are the things that I should check? At what point should I just walk or run away?
I know, I said that my 1250 would be my first and my last. But....ya' know.
Brian: Yellow fever relapse maybe???!!!
hydroharry
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Brian - I sense a mild case of Yellar and White FEVER. But that' ok. It will get worse.
It's hard to say what to look for on the 129 without seeing it, and even then it depends on how it runs. Maybe you should be running for it rather than away. Have to see how it runs, whether there is any hydro creep, does the PTO engage/disengage, how well does it start, does it smoke, but at the right price even with all these issues it could be worth getting. Oh, and it could have a hydraulic lift which would be really nice (instead of that manual lift with a bent/welded tip that doesn't matter).
Tom H - (under edit)
It's hard to say what to look for on the 129 without seeing it, and even then it depends on how it runs. Maybe you should be running for it rather than away. Have to see how it runs, whether there is any hydro creep, does the PTO engage/disengage, how well does it start, does it smoke, but at the right price even with all these issues it could be worth getting. Oh, and it could have a hydraulic lift which would be really nice (instead of that manual lift with a bent/welded tip that doesn't matter).
Tom H - (under edit)
jchamberlin
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Jim Harder: I'll answer you one more time on the Main Forum, but after this, I think we had better adjourn to the MTD section. I believe you have the instructions correct; you turn the shaft in the same direction the spring would pull it in operation, because once the engine starts the governor weights fight against the spring. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me.
Also, reviewing Jim Diederichs' response to your original query, he wrote,
<<Begin Quote>>
By Jim Diederichs (Jdiederichs) on Thursday, December 27, 2012 - 11:46 am:
It sounds like the governor adjustment is off which would cause the wild rpm swings. To adjust in a brief message:
>loosen gov. arm thru bolt where arm is attached to gov. shaft. Rotate the shaft counter-clockwise.
While doing that hold the throttle to the wide open position and tighten the gov. arm thru bolt.
<<End Quote>>
Jim is VERY knowledgeable about all things Cub Cadet, but particularly the engines. Please note that you're supposed to hold the arm "full on" (that is, in the direction the spring would pull it) while you turn the shaft in the same direction, BEFORE you tighten it down. When the arm is tight on the shaft, then you should have a full range of movement in the arm. As noted, the action should be smooth, without "hiccups." If the governor is not moving smoothly throughout its range, then I would suspect that there is a problem with the weights working against the pin (see pic below and refer to the accompanying text my previous post in the "Double Trouble?" thread in the MTD section).
In any case, don't run the engine until you're satisfied with the action of the governor, because what has happened to many of them is that they have come apart INSIDE the engine, with the engine running. The end result has been a damaged block, as can be seen in my thread M18 Starting Problems. You might want to click on the link to see what might be getting ready to happen to your engine.
Governor from Kohler K-Series in working condition (below):
Governor from a non-operating Kohler M18 (below):
View of the damage to the engine block that results when an in-compressible governor weight gets wedged between the big end of a rotating connecting rod and the block casting (hint, the block is more expandable than the either the weight or the rod cap is compressible [although the weight did leave a good-sized dent in the cap]) below:
Edit: <font size="+2">Brian Wittman:</font> I knew you couldn't stay away! I'll confirm what the others said, check the action of the hydro and the PTO, see if it has external or internal brakes, and check the gas line and/or fuel bowl for rust from the tank. Try removing and replacing the plug, just to see what shape the threads are in, check for oil stains from the breather, how the coil is wired, and the condition of the points and condenser. If it has lights, check the operation of the switch, and make sure the start safety switch is there. I wouldn't be worried if you find problems in all these areas, but it will help you with the price and estimating what it will take to bring it up to your high standards.
Also, reviewing Jim Diederichs' response to your original query, he wrote,
<<Begin Quote>>
By Jim Diederichs (Jdiederichs) on Thursday, December 27, 2012 - 11:46 am:
It sounds like the governor adjustment is off which would cause the wild rpm swings. To adjust in a brief message:
>loosen gov. arm thru bolt where arm is attached to gov. shaft. Rotate the shaft counter-clockwise.
While doing that hold the throttle to the wide open position and tighten the gov. arm thru bolt.
<<End Quote>>
Jim is VERY knowledgeable about all things Cub Cadet, but particularly the engines. Please note that you're supposed to hold the arm "full on" (that is, in the direction the spring would pull it) while you turn the shaft in the same direction, BEFORE you tighten it down. When the arm is tight on the shaft, then you should have a full range of movement in the arm. As noted, the action should be smooth, without "hiccups." If the governor is not moving smoothly throughout its range, then I would suspect that there is a problem with the weights working against the pin (see pic below and refer to the accompanying text my previous post in the "Double Trouble?" thread in the MTD section).
In any case, don't run the engine until you're satisfied with the action of the governor, because what has happened to many of them is that they have come apart INSIDE the engine, with the engine running. The end result has been a damaged block, as can be seen in my thread M18 Starting Problems. You might want to click on the link to see what might be getting ready to happen to your engine.
Governor from Kohler K-Series in working condition (below):
Governor from a non-operating Kohler M18 (below):
View of the damage to the engine block that results when an in-compressible governor weight gets wedged between the big end of a rotating connecting rod and the block casting (hint, the block is more expandable than the either the weight or the rod cap is compressible [although the weight did leave a good-sized dent in the cap]) below:
Edit: <font size="+2">Brian Wittman:</font> I knew you couldn't stay away! I'll confirm what the others said, check the action of the hydro and the PTO, see if it has external or internal brakes, and check the gas line and/or fuel bowl for rust from the tank. Try removing and replacing the plug, just to see what shape the threads are in, check for oil stains from the breather, how the coil is wired, and the condition of the points and condenser. If it has lights, check the operation of the switch, and make sure the start safety switch is there. I wouldn't be worried if you find problems in all these areas, but it will help you with the price and estimating what it will take to bring it up to your high standards.
akleyla
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- Amy J. Kleyla
More snow is falling again....Guess what I get to do later...go on ya know you wanna guess....yup you are wrong,I dont get to play on my cub removing snow...im getting all dressed up tonight to go out an watch friends of ours in their band. Gonna be fun,new blue sequin dress an new black heels to wear tonight. Hopefully tomorrow ill get to clean the snow up
I wanted to wish you all a happy new year and most of all be very careful tonight if you go out ! I look forward to seeing you all post again next year...
Hydro, <blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Kraig - in my post I said slightly "less" than 90* so "ya got me". I really meant what you're showing marked as ~100*, and since we're talking about it, just how do you do this stuff? Do you do drawings and pics all day long at work and just do this stuff on a whim?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">In answer to your query, I do use a couple different CAD programs as part of my work but I just used simple old MS Paint to sketch that up.</font>
Kraig - in my post I said slightly "less" than 90* so "ya got me". I really meant what you're showing marked as ~100*, and since we're talking about it, just how do you do this stuff? Do you do drawings and pics all day long at work and just do this stuff on a whim?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">In answer to your query, I do use a couple different CAD programs as part of my work but I just used simple old MS Paint to sketch that up.</font>
Harry,
I think you are right as I have been thinking about the shear pin in the 128.He didn't have a trouble light and I think I saw the shaft and coupler moving.When I forced the shaft rearward it was catching on the broken pin.Bringing it home tomorrow so will pound on the rear pin.
I think you are right as I have been thinking about the shear pin in the 128.He didn't have a trouble light and I think I saw the shaft and coupler moving.When I forced the shaft rearward it was catching on the broken pin.Bringing it home tomorrow so will pound on the rear pin.
