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Archive through December 05, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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aaytay

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Home of the Plow Special
Ken-
You need to go back to the kitchen and put some more ice in your fruit punch. It's too strong....
LOL!
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go help the guy in the Lawn Tractor section --- he's lost x2
 
Kentuck,
I've taken no pics this year at all.
I kinda figure if it's white and I blow it, it's the same as last year.
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You just don't want to get out of the CAB to snap a pic ! Sounds like you're hard on cubs if it took 3 to do the job. I see you got your ladder ready for when it gets deep
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Don T.

You have the wrong lift bar attach fitting. The one you have is for a narrow frame Cub Cadet. You need one made for wide frame models. The welded stud on the attach fitting for wide frame models is bigger diameter and will fit the hole on your lift bar without the use of a spacer. The stud is also located nearer the top of the fitting so it will clear the swing pivot arm attached to your cylinder. The spacer Charlie referred to goes in at the aft end of the lift arm common to the bolt that screws into the hitch arm. It is possible to lock the swing pivot arm to the lift arm with another pin if you need downward pressure for some reason, but I have never had need to do so. Contact the person you bought the hitch from to get the correct attach fitting.
 
Brian,

Gas in tank is only a month old mixed with stabil and MMO.
Champion plugs are in all of my cubs, I have very few problems with them, they are the only plug my cub dealer carries for the older cubs.

Luther,

Could have been a clogged jet and when I held my hand over the throat of the carb it created enough vacuume to suck it out.
I had run some stabil in the gas befor parking it for a month prior to saturday.
 
I think Brian Watson's post pretty well summed up all the possibilities of why a Kohler exh. would run cherry red....MANY years ago when I was working summers for the neighbor doing field work ALL His diesel tractors were busy one night so I ended up on a worn-out 4020 gas plowing one night....Not only did I have to drop a gear from what the diesel's would pull the 5-14" semi-mounted plow (the 4020-D & 4320 would easily run in 5th and I was stuck in 4th!) but every four hours I had to visit the fuel barrel, 16 rounds in a half mile long 80 acre field every four hours on a tank of gas, ran from about 8 PM till 4 AM and ran most of the night without headlights so I could see beyond the headlight's glow....the exh. manifold on that tractor was cherry red ALL night long, and it ran like the timing was about 5-6 degrees retarded....But then anyone that's spent any time on a 4020-gas knows it's kinda a retarded tractor to begin with to do heavy tillage with!
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KEN - Buddy of Mine used 345 cid 6-cyl Deutz air cooled engines to run His irrigation pumps... One night one of them broke a cooling fan belt which proptly broke ALL the belts so the engine ran unattended for 5-6 hours at load with no cooling except for the breeze blowing by the engine....Next morning the engine was still running the pump but the heads & cyl. barrels were ALL orange hot when they found it. They shut the pump off and cooled the engine, replaced the belts and the engine still ran but burned a bit more oil afterwards. There was no accumulated oil & grease left on the engine....it had all been burned off! They're actually a decent engine!
 
Lonny, can you get the carb bowl off without dumping whats inside? I'm thinking you may have some water in there. How much MMO are mixing with your fuel? You've verified you have no vacuum leaks right? If everything is ok, fuel delivery and ignition, you're looking at mechanical. I still say toss those Champion plugs. Between having a box of 10 CJ8's come back a few years ago and in my Chrysler dealer experience, Champion plugs are just not good IMHO. Chrysler will replace plugs under warranty causing misfires. GM and Ford won't. I've also never seen Delco or Motorcraft plugs fail under warranty. When I got my 125 it was so tired it would barely run. When I did manage to get it started it didn't smoke at all. It didn't have much "suck" on my hand over the carb. You can do a cylinder leakage test with compressed air with your piston on TDC to see where you're loosing any compression.
Hope this helps.
Brian aka "Mr Goodwrench"
 
well were can i get the right lift bracket?this is for a narrow frame ..later Don

Picture moved up the page a little. ;-P

Charlie
 
Don T.-

If you're handy with a hacksaw, drill press, grinder, and welder, you could probably make one. It's just a 1/4" thick steel plate with two tapped holes and a 3/4" hole to insert a short piece of 3/4" round stock into.
 
Don, yep, that's a narrow frame bracket. CC Specialties has both versions. Click on the CC Specialties link above then click on the "3 Points and Sleeve Hitches" button, then scroll down and you can see what it looks like.
 
Last night when I got home from work as I walked past my #2 125 this caught my eye and for a fraction of a second I thought that the front wheel broke.
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Matt, Have to disagree with you. That lift bracket is 1/2 inch thick, and the placement of the 3/4 inch hole is kind of important.
 
Hi Guy's, I got a question... maybe a no brainer to most but here we go... I have a model 72, unrestored and I love it. At the end of the summer season I started to have a problem with it bogging down... like it was choking out but the choke is off... but then it gets worse, when I shut it off the engine starts smoking out the top of the head???? its always go oil, I let it cool down and it fires up... I was planning on getting a plow for my small drive way but have held off... is it time for a rebuild of what?
Thanks JAson
 
Jason, when you say it's smoking out the top of the head, do you mean from between the head and the block? Sounds like you may have a blown head gasket..... Check around the head for signs of oil leakage.
 
o.k., I'll check that... would that create the bogging?? or should I rebuild the carb too?
thanks for the tip.
Jason
 
Jason, yes a blown head gasket would cause bogging due to loss of compression.
 

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