Archive through December 01, 2006

rrschmitt · Dec 1, 2006

Robert F,

Generally when your pushing good snow, the skids won't leave any scratches or marks on your concrete. Set the skids so there is a .125-.25 inch gap between the blade edge and the concrete. This will prevent wearing down your blade edge so fast and it will allow a small amount of snow under the blade. This thin layer of snow will also act as a lubricant barrier for the skid and prevent it from leaving scratches. The only time I've had the blade skids scratch the sidewalk is when you run out of snow, like between drifts. Then I lift the blade up until I get back in snow. Hope this helps.

mgonitzke · Dec 1, 2006

Looks like the total here in Rockford IL is about 13-14". Drove about 1/2 mile with the 128 to plow a friend's driveway, and managed to somehow knock one of the fluid-filled rear tires off the rim.

So then I had to walk a half mile back home in the wind and bring back another tire and some tools. I probably looked really stupid pulling a sled down the road with a tire in it. Oh well. At least the all that windshield washer fluid melted the snow.

Not a good day, but could have been worse.

bbowman · Dec 1, 2006

Steve T., not familiar with the 782,but my 1650 did the same thing.Spring,nut and spacer vaporized,then the gear would "float",ergo;whine,but no start!My 2 cents worth.

rfowler · Dec 1, 2006

Thanks Ron. That sounds like a good idea. I guess as long as Im not plowing directly on dry concrete I should be ok. Oh by the way, should any hardware store carry a spring to put inside the lever that raises and lowers the plow. The springunder the button compressed and has left me with a floating plow.

cellis · Dec 1, 2006

After I wrote that "barrel" thing I thought I should have said "muzzle".

Anyway, glad it got a laugh.

My wife found a t-shirt for me that says:

"I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do."

Provided I obey, all is well at the Ellis house...

cellis · Dec 1, 2006

Ryan: Being both of us in Michigan, maybe we'll get that beer one day!!

Snow? Bring it on. I'm ready.

dandre · Dec 1, 2006

Robert F. The button on my lift handle stayed down once also. The spring just stuck in the handle. Try flushing the handle with wd-40 or something simular to see if it frees up the spring. Maybe it froze.

The 1/4" of snow and sleet we got yesterday melted before noon.

mbounds · Dec 1, 2006

Robert F: I agree with Don A. While it's possible you do have a spring problem, its more likely rust-up of the rod, not the spring. PB Blaster will make you smile at how good your spring suddenly works...Dont forget to let it soak for a while. The rod protrudes from the bottom where it engages in the rack.. Easy to tell when you are "flushing". After The PB Blaster dries...use dry teflon spray down the hole to keep it lubed without oil gum up. PB Blaster makes a good dry Teflon lube also....

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

cellis · Dec 1, 2006

OK. I have a serious question here. I own about ten strings of Christmas lights where only half the string lights up.

I know there has to be some way to fix these but I confess they have me beat. And what really frosts me is that these strings are getting up to $7 or $8 per 100 lights sometimes.

So, I wondering if anybody knows how to troubleshoot and fix these stupid things. I know it has nothing to do with Cubs but it's sure got alot to do with my Cub budget.

wheinsohn · Dec 1, 2006

The weatherman said the local Rock County Airport reported 15" of snow. This is only about 3 miles from my house as the crow flies. I got stuck in the driveway when I got home. The old Monte just couldn't quite get throught that almost waist high drift. Shovelled it out and got the 1650 going. I worked it for about 2 hours to get the driveway clean. I am going to have to get the Farmall M out in the morning to get the one driveway clean. I think that 3' deep by 10' long drift going across it is just too much. I tried with the snowthrower but I would just sit there and spin trying to push into it. I do have some nice piles here. Tomorrow morning will be the 106 and blade to clean everything up nice. I think I got more snow in one day than I have had for the past 2 years total.

rwilke · Dec 1, 2006

Kraig McC.,
Yep, that's it alright!

Craig E.,
You're right; and I've come to learn that ya just never know what the future may bring....or when you decide YOU NEED to sell ME your 782!

Ryan W

P.S.
Only recieved ~5" of the wet/heavy sloppy snow here.

kide · Dec 1, 2006

Kraig:
(Little late answering, broadband out all day - tree fell on the cable someplace). I usually start with the blade and move to the QA 42 after we get frost in the ground. There's a long explanation of why I run with the thrower skids set up with very little cutting edge clearance, even on gravel (we'll skip it because it sounded screwy when I actually wrote it out..), but suffice it to say that with a less than totally flat drive, I find a few rocks that float up over the winter.

Didn't get what was predicted, just sloppy, freezing rain and a little snow this afternoon in our part of MI. 129's in the barn, staying dry.

Has anyone ever built a dolly to store the blower on, positioning it so that you can roll it up to the front of the tractor and truly "quick attach"? It's usually a one man show for me, blocking the thrower up to just the right height, inching the Cub ahead, knocking it off the blocks, starting over, etc, etc.. Yup, I have RTFM, still find it less than "quick" May hit the shop and see what I can whip up.

mfisher · Dec 2, 2006

Matt - How did you manage that? A lot of us are envious of your snow totals. Did you manage any seat time? We had an inch or two that really didn't put the equipment to the test.

stanner · Dec 2, 2006

Kendell...
I made a wooden support that goes under the QA42 where the blower frame attaches to the housing... That levels the QA42 up to the right height. I then made a rod out of 1/2" steel with 90 degree bends at the ends, that tie the blower housing to the QA frame. This will position it so the ears will slide right on to the frankenstien bolts... works OK, I'm sure there is a better way...

bmcmeen · Dec 2, 2006

QA42A - leaving the right side top link in the storage position works just fine for me. Drive the tractor in and CLICK...

charrin · Dec 2, 2006

Craig Ellis: Try going to "howstuffworks.com" and typing in the words christmas lights. Those strings are just a simple series/parallel combination, and all it takes is 1 loose bulb. BTW, the loose bulb will ALWAYS be the LAST one in the string that you check!

digger · Dec 2, 2006

I'd lots rather hook up a thrower over a blade anyday!
That's another good reason to have a tractor for every attachment! That way you only have to do it ONCE!

prightmyer · Dec 2, 2006

Hey Kendell, I use a movers platform for my QA42 to store in the off-season. When the time comes, I just roll it up to the front of the tractor and no problem. I got mine at Harbor Freight. Cost about $15. A lot easier than hefting around 200+ pounds of thrower.

dphelps · Dec 2, 2006

Craig E. Craig H has a point that more than likely its a loose bulb, or one with a broken copper lead. The mini Christmas lights now have both a filiment and a shunt for when the filiment goes.

tcbusch · Dec 2, 2006

I made a quick disconnect for the blade I use on the loader. I cant use the loader with the blade mounted. Now I can just lift 2 swivels and pull one pin and off I go. I need to paint that thing!