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Archive through August 27, 2004
- Thread starter wcompton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
N
ncshelton
Guest
My 1250 Cub Cadet hydraulic has developed a leak that has progressively gotten worse. It began with a small amount of oil leaking from the two small holes in the top of the assembly just above the oil filter. Now, it spurts out. It appears there must be a check valve, or something similar, under the holes to keep the oil in under pressure, and then opens for venting when there is no pressure. Or, what? Any suggestions as to the cause? The fix? The 1250 does a real good job other than this problem, so I don't want to replace it.
thanks,
Norwood Shelton
Monroe, LA
YM-2000, 1450 Cub Cadet
1964 F100, 1955 Customline
thanks,
Norwood Shelton
Monroe, LA
YM-2000, 1450 Cub Cadet
1964 F100, 1955 Customline
P
pshepard
Guest
I've got an 1100 series Cub Cadet (serial number 2050590U628187*, from tag on chassis). I blew the engine 2 years ago and intended to replace it that winter but got tied up in other projects.
I want to replace the original 10.5 HP engine with a larger engine. I understand my tractor came originally with a 'cross over' engine. Not 100% sure what that means but I'm told it's difficult to find a replacement so my expectations are low finding a larger engine.
Saying all that, can it be done and what'll it take to do it? Also what make/model engine is the best fit?
Thanks.
I want to replace the original 10.5 HP engine with a larger engine. I understand my tractor came originally with a 'cross over' engine. Not 100% sure what that means but I'm told it's difficult to find a replacement so my expectations are low finding a larger engine.
Saying all that, can it be done and what'll it take to do it? Also what make/model engine is the best fit?
Thanks.
Bryan,
ROTFLMAO
ROTFLMAO
M
mwheeler
Guest
Hello everybody!
My name is Maxwell Wheeler and I'm fairly new to the tractor collecting and restoration hobby. I'm 18 years old and I'm in the Agricultural Engineering Program at North Carolina State University. My goal is to get at least one tractor of each brand basically to help me get a better understanding of how these machines work so I can apply it to designing machinery when I get out in 4 years. I already have a 1969 John Deere 140 H1 (looked for one for over 2 years before I got this one), I used to have a 1983 Simplicity 4211H, (it was too small to really examine for my purposes) and I've been looking for a Cub for a while as well (about 6 months, but to no avail yet). My father and I use a 1972 Farmall 140 for our little garden plot. I enjoy tinkering and fixing up these machines, and in doing so, I am able to see the advantages and drawbacks of each design, and in turn helps me to prepare for college and prepare for a career in engineering. In my opinion, all engineers need to be a mechanic before they can become an engineer to avoid making machines that are hard to work on. I hope this wasn't too long winded, but I just wanted to introduce myself.
My name is Maxwell Wheeler and I'm fairly new to the tractor collecting and restoration hobby. I'm 18 years old and I'm in the Agricultural Engineering Program at North Carolina State University. My goal is to get at least one tractor of each brand basically to help me get a better understanding of how these machines work so I can apply it to designing machinery when I get out in 4 years. I already have a 1969 John Deere 140 H1 (looked for one for over 2 years before I got this one), I used to have a 1983 Simplicity 4211H, (it was too small to really examine for my purposes) and I've been looking for a Cub for a while as well (about 6 months, but to no avail yet). My father and I use a 1972 Farmall 140 for our little garden plot. I enjoy tinkering and fixing up these machines, and in doing so, I am able to see the advantages and drawbacks of each design, and in turn helps me to prepare for college and prepare for a career in engineering. In my opinion, all engineers need to be a mechanic before they can become an engineer to avoid making machines that are hard to work on. I hope this wasn't too long winded, but I just wanted to introduce myself.
Hello everybody. The positive (+) wire has come out of the PTO clutch coil on my 1450. The end of the wire is recessed into the coil housing, so I have no way to solder onto the existing wire like I had hoped to do when I took the PTO clutch off to repair the broken wire. I was curious if anyone else has had a similar problem or if anyone knows if an electric motor repair shop could fix this, or if I am going to have to replace the clutch. Does anyone know if you can buy just the coil part of the clutch new? I am open to suggestions. Thanks!
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Norword Shelton
Sounds like your Hydro Check valves are leaking, not an uncommon occurance. Sounds like you have the later version with the self unloading if they have the hole in the top instead of the small pin.
First clean up the area around the check valves real good as you don't want to get dirt into the hydro. Take the check valves out, probably one at a time the first time you do it.
On the check valve there are two rubber o-rings and one plastic ring. The plastic one has a angle cut in it so it can be removed. Remove the two rubber O-rings and the plastic ring, remember the orientation of the plastic and the rubber O-ring. Inspect them and if damaged they need to be replaced.
Clean the check valve in a good solvent. I use a air gun to clean them, you need to get out any junk accumulated in them. I like to hold the check valve away from me and then shoot air into the bottom of the check valve. You will see the spring compress and the check ball move up. Do this several times, it is good to exercise them good and clean out any junk.
When you put them back together I like to assemble the rubber o-rings and the plastic ring and then dip them in Hytran before I put them back in the tractor.
If you haven't changed the hydro fluid and the filter it is a good time to do that and be sure and get the correct hydro filter not a car filter.
If they still leak you will need to get new ones from your Cub dealer or one of the sponsers. They are not cheap, I think the last ones I got from Madsons were around $95.00 each.
Sounds like your Hydro Check valves are leaking, not an uncommon occurance. Sounds like you have the later version with the self unloading if they have the hole in the top instead of the small pin.
First clean up the area around the check valves real good as you don't want to get dirt into the hydro. Take the check valves out, probably one at a time the first time you do it.
On the check valve there are two rubber o-rings and one plastic ring. The plastic one has a angle cut in it so it can be removed. Remove the two rubber O-rings and the plastic ring, remember the orientation of the plastic and the rubber O-ring. Inspect them and if damaged they need to be replaced.
Clean the check valve in a good solvent. I use a air gun to clean them, you need to get out any junk accumulated in them. I like to hold the check valve away from me and then shoot air into the bottom of the check valve. You will see the spring compress and the check ball move up. Do this several times, it is good to exercise them good and clean out any junk.
When you put them back together I like to assemble the rubber o-rings and the plastic ring and then dip them in Hytran before I put them back in the tractor.
If you haven't changed the hydro fluid and the filter it is a good time to do that and be sure and get the correct hydro filter not a car filter.
If they still leak you will need to get new ones from your Cub dealer or one of the sponsers. They are not cheap, I think the last ones I got from Madsons were around $95.00 each.
Bruce-
The answer to what to do with the hand-operated 30" lift 3000lb capacity ram...
Make yourself a 3-point mounted hand-operated 1500lb capacity FORKLIFT!
Several pieces of channel iron, some misc. scraps, some small roller bearings, a piece of chain, and a chainwheel... you can even use your tractor's lift to tilt the mast fore and back...
The answer to what to do with the hand-operated 30" lift 3000lb capacity ram...
Make yourself a 3-point mounted hand-operated 1500lb capacity FORKLIFT!
Several pieces of channel iron, some misc. scraps, some small roller bearings, a piece of chain, and a chainwheel... you can even use your tractor's lift to tilt the mast fore and back...
Well, I finally got the K321 apart today. It has been to many projects and not enough time lately. I think I found the noise in the engine. The cam had .013 end play which is close to spec.. The crankshaft end play was .018 which was in spec.. But those nasty balance gears were a rockin all over. Needless to say it is back together with new rings, rod, and seals, and a couple extra parts still sitting on the bench. I will give the carb one more good cleaning this week and hopefully she will get fired up this weekend. I want to put a few hours on this engine before plow day just to make sure everything is ready to go.
Bruce M-
The inner fender panels were swapped from side to side, so the fenders can sit about 1-1/2" narrower so the fenders don't sit so wide when widened; the look of being wide without actually being so wide. The inner fender panels are bent in an "L" where they meet the axle housings with the horizontal portion facing the tractor, I just faced them towards the wheel. It'll also let me add more wheel weights between the wheels and tractor with the fenders on. ALSO, if I ever want to run duals I can flip the 6-12 wheels inside out, and have duals but not be so annoyingly wide, and with just 6-12 tires Cub Cadets get REALLY wide.
The inner fender panels were swapped from side to side, so the fenders can sit about 1-1/2" narrower so the fenders don't sit so wide when widened; the look of being wide without actually being so wide. The inner fender panels are bent in an "L" where they meet the axle housings with the horizontal portion facing the tractor, I just faced them towards the wheel. It'll also let me add more wheel weights between the wheels and tractor with the fenders on. ALSO, if I ever want to run duals I can flip the 6-12 wheels inside out, and have duals but not be so annoyingly wide, and with just 6-12 tires Cub Cadets get REALLY wide.
Good evening everyone.
I have a deck question. RE: making a 50" deck work on my 782 from my 1650.
I went about changing my pulley on my 50" deck today and noticed that the previous owner welded the nut onto the pulley. You cannot even get a socket on it because of the weld bead.
Would it be possible to run the smaller pulley with the larger 5/8 belt? The belt goes in about 3/4 of the way depth wise and has maybe a 1/16 or 1/8 at the most of the belt is outside of the smaller pulley.
I'm considering just drilling the hole to move the post so it will accept the X82 mule drive and go with the smaller pulley to try it.
Has anyone done this or should I stay away for safty concerns? It looks like it might work to me.
Please advise!
I have a deck question. RE: making a 50" deck work on my 782 from my 1650.
I went about changing my pulley on my 50" deck today and noticed that the previous owner welded the nut onto the pulley. You cannot even get a socket on it because of the weld bead.
Would it be possible to run the smaller pulley with the larger 5/8 belt? The belt goes in about 3/4 of the way depth wise and has maybe a 1/16 or 1/8 at the most of the belt is outside of the smaller pulley.
I'm considering just drilling the hole to move the post so it will accept the X82 mule drive and go with the smaller pulley to try it.
Has anyone done this or should I stay away for safty concerns? It looks like it might work to me.
Please advise!
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
John S. -
Put yer glasses back on - there's 5 holes in those wheels. It's the usual trailer hub/wheel mod, not anything from Simplicity...
Shawn H. -
There's always been talk of the possibility of having an electric motor shop rewind the coils, but to date I've never heard of anyone actually having it done. Perhaps more expensive than buying a used coil from one of our sponsors.
Put yer glasses back on - there's 5 holes in those wheels. It's the usual trailer hub/wheel mod, not anything from Simplicity...
Shawn H. -
There's always been talk of the possibility of having an electric motor shop rewind the coils, but to date I've never heard of anyone actually having it done. Perhaps more expensive than buying a used coil from one of our sponsors.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Norwood,
Before you tear it down (as Richard described quite well), take it out on the driveway and shuttle shift the hydro lever back and forth about 20 times......go ahead, chirp the tires, pull (small) wheelies (be carefull), throw rocks, etc.
Sometimes you can fix/minimize leaks on those check valves with some good hard exercise.
Worth a try and FREE
Before you tear it down (as Richard described quite well), take it out on the driveway and shuttle shift the hydro lever back and forth about 20 times......go ahead, chirp the tires, pull (small) wheelies (be carefull), throw rocks, etc.
Sometimes you can fix/minimize leaks on those check valves with some good hard exercise.
Worth a try and FREE
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Ummmm...Dave...I think you mean "LEFT" hand keeping the firm grip on the steering wheel.
Kinda hard to do a true Blunieresque slam-shifts on a 1250 when your "speed control hand" (i.e. right) is on the steering wheel.
<font size="-2">Dang 1X9 drivers...........</font>
;-)
Kinda hard to do a true Blunieresque slam-shifts on a 1250 when your "speed control hand" (i.e. right) is on the steering wheel.
<font size="-2">Dang 1X9 drivers...........</font>
;-)
Hello folks! Wanted you to know that I have learned a lot from this message board. Your archives are chock full of good stuff!
I have a 682 with a QA42A snow blower. Both were bought at auction several years ago, but I never had the need for the snow blower until this year.
I'm not even sure I have all the parts to make it work.
I noticed in the archives that the QA42B was made for the 82-series. Can someone give me some ideas what will need to be modified to fit the QA42A on the 682? Even better, would someone be so kind as to post a drawing of the QA42A, the required parts for the snow blower, and the connections points on the 682 frame?
Thanx in advance for your help!
p.s. I know I don't have the belt. Anyone have the part # I need? Thanks again.
I have a 682 with a QA42A snow blower. Both were bought at auction several years ago, but I never had the need for the snow blower until this year.
I'm not even sure I have all the parts to make it work.
I noticed in the archives that the QA42B was made for the 82-series. Can someone give me some ideas what will need to be modified to fit the QA42A on the 682? Even better, would someone be so kind as to post a drawing of the QA42A, the required parts for the snow blower, and the connections points on the 682 frame?
Thanx in advance for your help!
p.s. I know I don't have the belt. Anyone have the part # I need? Thanks again.
