The 124s finally got a chance to meet. I can't believe how tight the engine is on the newly aquired 124 with the 59M. I have seen no signs of smoke and the timing seems perfect. I went through the carb but that's all (except the standard oil change). I took the plug out of the rearend and clean, red hytran just flowed. I really got a good deal on this one. The po was happy just to see it going down the drive.
Are we on strike here on the forum? Is there a reason for the lapse in postings?
WAYNE - Nice looking pair of 124's, as you know several of us here really like the zig-zag grill NF gear drives.
Only one comment..... Hy-Tran is actually brown. ;-)
JAMES K. - re: K241 (10hp) into a 72. I did that swap in 1985, as long as the K241 is a CC-spec engine everything should bolt up fine. The only difference between a K161/181 starter-generator bracket and a K241 bracket is they are mounted upside-down, and the holes are just slightly different spacing. Seems like I had to drill a new hole in my 72's S/G bracket and elongate the other one.
Ohhh and the gas tank bracket is different and the gas tank itself on the K161/181 is only five quarts while the K241 is eight.
But the PTO clutch, engine clutch, choke & throttle cable, fuel line, wiring, mounting bolts thru the frame all hook right up.
TODD M. - Years ago I used to buy ACETONE by the gallon. Be very careful with acetone, it can be kinda hard on stuff! It works great at dissolving CA, (crazy-glue) which is what we used to attach the tires to the wheels on our R/C cars. New wheels with every set of new tires cost a L-O-T of money when your racing 2-3 cars so we'd soak the old tires off with acetone. I have some "UNIQUE" screwdriver handles because of Acetone.
Saga of the 149 refurb. Initially I thought this machine was unmolested save for P.O. shade tree repairs but I've found that the rear end serial tag has a # 42---- designation meaning a swap had been made as the 149's are much higher serial numbers. I can also see traces of a CAT like yellow sprayed here and there even on the back fins of the hydro pump where a little over spray got to them. Anyhow, with the tap-tap advice the PTO did come off as well as everything else (with a puller) so I could get to the leaky crank seal which has since been removed with the two metal screw trick.
I am puzzled with the concentric locking collar as it does not "bite" to the shaft in any position. I was able to remove it easily after the locking nut and allen screw were loosened without using a drift to unlock it. It will spin around the shaft without locking. Hummmm. Any ideas on that? It does not appear that it has "spun" in any fashion to wear itself out and the crankshaft/front shaft shows no wear whatsoever.
Things are getting cleaned and I have a list of parts to order. I previously noted that the engine started without smoke and ran strong, sounding good as well,so I imagine some engine work has been done. Now that it's degreased I'll pull the head and see what's up.
On a side note, I met up recently with Rick Albert from the forum's and from around my parts and we did a little "trading". He's a great guy and it's always nice to meet other Cubbers in Fl.
I did want to say that I put down a tarp to capture all of the gunk and it's aftermath to be disposed of properly as will the rest of the residue from the tractor.
Now that you mention it....I think you're right. Maybe I should look into a rearend oil change as well. For all I know it could be atf. Anyway, it almost gushed out when I pulled the plug to check. I feel confident it is well lubed for the time being. This engine doesn't even vibrate that much and has the dipstick up top so I don't think I even have to think about grenade gears.
Your time will come. I remember when I could have jerked one of these engines out and had it on the bench. Now, after two back surgeries I am grateful for my "big" tractor with the lift pole.
I would like to add for you to be careful with your back. Engines aren't getting any lighter but our backs are getting older by the day. It don't take but one screw up and pain pills can become a good friend. Long story short....Get a lift system and be proud to have it.
Yes,no,maybe,so, everything else but the block that mounts to the lift arm,also the lift arm also has a bend in it,the lift lever is different,so it will not work unless you have one from a narrow frame,or get the correct measurement from one of our kindly members,or just get one for a narrow frame,or....yada yada yada