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Archive through August 27, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Well-known member
Oct 17, 2008
Tristan Stewart
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Glen Erickson (Gerickson) on Friday, August 27, 2010 - 03:58 pm:

Tristan, I think the weak link in a 1000 is the ISO mounts and that flimsy clutch driver. I went thru a couple of these drivers on my 1000 plowing snow and dirt. Wasn't the spring or disc at all. I put a stock spring back in mine. Then I solid mounted the motor and used a narrow frame 3 pin driver. Works very well. Should work even better with a cast iron oil pan. Oops!
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Glen, I am not to familiar with the mechanics of the cub transmission yet, I learn as I go... does the driver really induce slippage? I assumed that would be pressure plate/disk/spring related...
I know the ISO mounts are often a problem, I dont think you mean to say its causing any my problems do you? When I got the tractor last year they were ok and I havent checked since but no obvious sings of issues yet. This has been my worker this year and its running great, except when pulling a lot of weight and the clutch issues... I did have an issue earlier this year with the clutch not engaging, it would stay disengaged. After several forum posts it turned out just a bit of a whack and it was good to go.
Richard T-

Get a long, blunt punch and simply approach the pto from the points cover side, Tap and move the pto (crank) then tap, and tap. Continue tapping and moving the crank/pto until it comes off. I emphesize (sp) the term "tap" here. There is never a need for a hard strike. Just keep tapping and rotating and it WILL come off. I've never been failed doing this.

Give it a try.....good luck!
Rich...was doing a quick search for >PTO remover< and someone 6 years ago said they found 3 setscrews in each hole! Hope your luck is better.
Pto s I have used a long punch and from the side just keep tapping to get them to move and take your time and when you put it back together use lots of never seize. works for me .
IH started makeing cub originals in 1961.

Had a BAD cub day today went and got some carb cleaner to rebuild a carb tried to take the throtel shaft out and twisted off both buterfly screws
so I thought no big deal Ill just use my other carbs shaft (since I had to drill the one in half) guess what happened yep twisted off both of its buterfly screws
so I got my 2nd parts carb and got both butterfly screws out without twisting them off.
Lucas, If the butterfly screws don't come out with reasonable force, They may have had Loctite put on the threads..To get them out you have to heat the screws to 400 Degrees to get the Loctite to break loose.
I usually file those split screws down before I remove them in mine.
Don T.,
Making it smooooooooooooth.
Once you go black top you never go back.
The back of the brass screws must be filed off; the peen them over at the factory so they can't vibrate out.
What about the "original" serial numbers 1 to 500? Were these made in 1960? Were they prototypes? What did they look like?

According to the IH Cub Cadet website at the top of this page, the O's were also made in 1960.
This is nice to know now.

Will it be all right if I let my carb sit in aectone all night.

Marty there were som prototypes in 1960 but the o went into production in 62.
I would go out to any auto parts store and pick up a gallon of carb cleaner and soak it in there.

Also I think it eats away brass parts,fuel bowls,I know paint and roller cleaner does,BTDT..
Lewis Palma

they tell me I will love it ,I should because I could buy a lot more Cubs for this deal.Won`t that 450 chuck some snow off that new drive way.

Wayne Shytle

I think that only us older guys know that just a tap will get it done!

Lucas Jones

Acetone is just a degreaser and will not hurt the Carb,It will blow rubber seals out of shape.they will swell and get soft.

Kevin Hill

great advice, brass is soft and should not need much pressure to get the screws out. A good screw driver and you see the slot moved out of shape its time to redress your procedure( you ain`t doing it right) lol. check for penning and locktite and get out the dremil tool,.

wow just spent four hrs out by a fire pit getting eat and wondering why them females like fires so much. you have to hit the shower cause you smell!
I think the O was the best tractor because.
1. they were the first made
2.they are still with us.
3. and they were the mold for the rest !

IH started all serial numbers with number 501 with the exception of some prototypes. In the Oct-Dec 1960 time frame, IH built 25 Originals to be sent to the southern Regions of the US for 50 hours of testing by commerical type users(colleges, military bases, city's ect.). These tractors were serial number's 501 thru 525, and at least 6 of those tractors are known to exist. In addition to those 25, IH also continue to build "O's" on a (quote) "limited basis to test manufacturing equipment and procedures and to establish piecework prices" (end quote) prior to the tractor being released for production. Shipment of those tractors was not to begin until after the satisfactory completion of the test on the 25 tractors. These tractors had serial numbers from 526 to 589, althought it is not known if all those numbers were used (S/N 556 and 58x are known to exist). The tractor was released for production in Jan 1961, and the Louisville plant monthly production records list serial number 590 as the first tractor off the assembly line after production offically began. I am told that 590 is now on display in the CCC/MTD headquarters building. It was once owned by a member of this forum.
My brother-in-law came to visit from Kansas and brought something with!


100's are great! Here it is joining my southwestern fleet.

TRISTAN - I've never been around a Q/L so can't really comment on the clutch more than Glen E. already has. But I have a MWSC clutch in my 72, billet pressure plates & the yellow spring I think, even with the extension on the release arm the clutch is too stiff IMHO to be used as a working tractor, and not THAT many yrs ago I could hold down the clutch pedal on semi-tractors with 14 inch dia. twin disc clutches thru some VERY long winded stop lights.

I have the OEM clutch disc in that 72 and I will say the clutch WILL NOT SLIP. But next time it's apart I will be going back to a closer-to-stock setup. Maybe shim the OEM spring a bit, stock clutch release lever, and put my driveshaft brake back on.
Looks like the engine for my 72 is toast. Is a 10 hp engine a drop in?
Thanks for the advice on the PTO removal. I shall start tap-tapping away.
I believe Acetone is one of the main ingredients in carb cleaner.
Don D. That is one neat little 100 that your brother in law brought for you. I noticed that a PO also used railroad track for weights. Notice on my Keepsake 1650 where the PO bolted a section of track.


I took it off and now use it as an anvil.

Off to work on a 147 that followed me home two weeks ago. Hopefully pics tonight of it.