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Archive through December 27, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Terry
Been there, done that, tipped a M with a loader once, luck was with me and it was in a large snow bank when it went over. I don't know the statistics but a lot of Farmers are killed with loaders and not all from tipping. Those large round hay bales get a few too.
 
Richard,
Tell you what, I will give you my personal guarantee that I will not pick up any round bales with the one armed bandit.
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Richard and Terry speak some wise words!! We had a guy killed here pusing a small tree with a skid loader. He had the cage off and the tree slid up the loader arms and hit him in the face. Not trying to get off the beaten path here, but you guys need to watch it with loaders. Even these small one can get you into trouble!!!
 
I have nearly tipped mine over. You learn to keep the load down low when moving.

Anybody that had registered for PD9, is everybody staying at the super 8 I think it was, with the link on the registration page? And is there a group rate or anything?
 
Dave,
I like the loader. Noticed one very similar for a Kubota on E B A Y today.

Dave H
 
Richard- I like the rear-loader arrangement... and was actually considering building a mast with forks for the back of Loader-Mutt, for more capacity, and the ability to pick an extra ballast slug if necessary. Don't think I'll need it, and it'd hinder my ability to get into low-overhead-clearance locations.

I agree, garden-tractors with loaders are dangerous... ANYTHING with a bucket... actually, ANY machine is dangerous... even just a bare garden-tractor, especially when the axle lets loose at 10mph. I've stuck, then extracted a Komatsu D420 articulating loader (about 40-tons empty, 10yd bucket), and I wouldn't rate it as being any more-or-less safe than Loader-Mutt. They're machines, and they're all dangerous... so is a good steak knife. Everything is best treated with care and caution.

L-M didn't become any more dangerous as a result of the presence of the loader- it got more dangerous because the axle had a flaw worn onto one of the axle's webs. Looking at my 109, and the diesel-project, they ALL have the same wear-marks- knife gashes from mule-drive sheaves contacting, and cutting through the flange, and into the webbing. I took the two pieces in, and assembled 'em on the garage bench, and under bright light, it's quite obvious that the crack STARTED at a point made weak by the sheave-gash, and it probably started as a result of driving down the street, there's a rough manhole cover about a block up the street.

In any case, I've lifted 450lbs with Loader-Mutt so far, and had no signs of breakage (even this axle!), or any conditions of instability. Crossing side-grades, and all the other conditions which draw out the greatest instabilities of any machine, Loader-Mutt wasn't any worse-off than my 109 with dozer-blade hangin' off the front.

From a safe operations standpoint, EVERY good machinery operator knows that one should never LIFT a load any higher than absolutely necessary, as lifting the load (Even an empty loader bucket) raises the machine's center of gravity substantially. Most skid-steer accidents, especially rollovers to the rear and sides, involve the bucket being up high... good operators know that when the rig becomes unstable, the best thing to do, is to lower the bucket to the ground, then stop the machine... this improves the footprint, stabilizing the machine and load.

Regardless, I built Loader-Mutt to save my back- for lifting Cub parts, and lots of other things I've always lifted and carried by hand, but shouldn't be... heavy parts, tools, gravel, sand and dirt. I calculated and built based on a 750lb capacity, 1000lbs tops, and figured it'd likely never see the high side of 500lbs. Everything else was for convenience, safety, and durability.
 
Wow, cage off on a skid steer.....not a good combo.

The JD 44 loader had a set of 2' channel uprights bolted to the main loader frame right in front of the driver.....not a bad safety device for both roll over and roll back protection...also a nice place to mount a piece of plexiglass for a winter windshield.
 
Can add to the loaders being very fun but a real pucker factor can sneak up on you. an original with loader is a bit light for what it can lift. 350 pounds is a bit much at 5 feet up Am shocked though that with a lot of rear ballest it will push gravel untill it runs over the top and sides of the bucket. Can't pick up quite a half bucket though, damn trip bucket anyway. Hate to change it over. doubt there are too many out there.
Pushing gravel is only for 1st gear though, I cannot find one of the 7-hp engines with twin turbo's.
 
<font color="ff0000"><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size="+2">HAPPY HEW YEARS TO ALL.</font></font></font>
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A bit early I know but I am out of here until the 3rd.
See you all next year.
 
Zach, if memory serves me correctly the center button on the pto is available separately. I fixed up a 109 pto earlier this year. Now that I think about it I had to buy the button separately because it didn't come in the clutch kit. The owner let the fiber button wear out and never cared to get another one. I didn't think there was anything good to be said about NYC. I've been there several times in a truck. Once to La Guardia. Once to Hunt's Point, and once to 123rd in Harlem. Ronkonkoma on Long Island wasn't too bad. Just darn tight for a truck. If that whole place fell off into the Atlantic, I'd be fine with me.
 
Zach -

Yes, PTO buttons are available. Buy two, cuz as a first timer you'll likely break the first one
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Now then, if you don't want to change a PTO button ever again, I'd suggest picking up a bronze PTO button, they're available from a few of our sponsors here. They're made by our very own Dan Hoefler and will last a lifetime.

And congrats on getting that engine started!
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Zach,
What was banging like "a file cabinet being thrown out an office window"? Was it something behind the shroud?
 
... I've been known to throw filing cabinets every so often...
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Completely forgot to say, it was a 1/2 inch socket wrench head. Its pretty banged up, but now I have an extra just in case I lose mine. I wonder how it got there.

I just drove the tractor for the first time, not bad, decent power, and the handling is surprisingly good. The brakes are ok, which leads me to my first question:

When the clutch/brake pedal is pressed all the way down and locked into place, should I be able to move (push with legs, off the tractor) the tractor? Its difficult, but it can be done. The manual doesn't refer to braking power, just when the brake engages.

Also, after about 20 minutes of driving, I noticed that neutral actually allowed me to roll down hills. I guess the trans-axle fluid warmed up. I have read that you don't need to use heavy weight oil in the trans-axle, lighter oils will free up some power. Would y'all advise switching to a lighter oil?

Thanks for all your help.
 
Zach,
I was told to only use Hy-Tran or equivalent. You might want to suck some fluid out of the axle housing. Is it brown or dark and does it smell burnt the it should be changed. However I would recommend changing it and the filter anyways. As far as the brakes go they should be tighter than that. Jack up the back end to get the wheels off the ground. Spin the wheel by hand then press n the bake peddle with your hand. The wheel should lock up about 1.5 inches before the peddle bottoms out. If you have disk brakes adjust one at a time by tightening the linkage bolt just on the inside of the wheels. If you have a transmission brake the bolt is in front of the transmission. Sort of looks like a rocker arm.
 
Oh geez!
Here we go again with that equivalent stuff again, LOL
And here I thought that crap was only brought up weekly on the yahooie board, snicker
 
Zach -

Those brake adjustments aren't really covered all that well in the operator's manual, for the same reason your vehicle's owner's manual doesn't detail how to bleed your brakes
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You shouldn't be able to push the tractor with the brakes applied - why? So it doesn't roll downhill with a trailer full of logs and run you down!

Shop manual is the way to go here. IIRC it has specific numbers for how much force it needs to withstand...
 
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