tschweizer
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- Travis Schweizer
My feet will go where they normally would. I have 3" spacers coming from Wisconsin.
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Archive through December 27, 2004
- Thread starter dkirk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Terry- I use the 109 and 108 for pushing snow- 109 has 23-10.5-12 ags and hydraulic lift, chains are on the 108. I've got a gravel driveway, so ice really doesn't cause me much trouble, so the 109 does most of the pushing.
Haven't run into problems with the Loader having traction problems, but if I do, there's a high likelyhood it'll get custom-made 25" rubber-treaded steel wheels with bolted-on chain-links. Look for the fender clearance to improve, however- next step is to insert 1" a riser block between frame and fenders to improve clearance, and at the same time, I'll remove the riser block from under the seat.
The bucket will eventually be pulled off, and the arms will be fitted with a quick-attach mechanism. I'll rehab the bucket, and fit it with a mating face, as well as make a set of forks for lifting materials.
I built Loader-Mutt from gathered parts, most were from machines that'd been parted-out, and were destined for the scrap recycler.
I built it up specifically for use with the loader... many of the 'features' which factory decks required for mounting don't exist on Loader-Mutt- there's no PTO sheave, no engagement mechanism, the front quick-attach hooks are gone (to allow additional swing for the steering rams), the rockshaft and center lift don't exist... didn't have 'em, didn't need 'em. In contrast, it has features that Cub Cadets otherwise DON'T have, like power-steering, treadle S/R operation, etc, and LOTS of ground-clearance. It's very at-home growling through sand and dirt to get a bucketful, and does it with very minimum effort from the operator. Once the steering-brakes are in place, it'll REALLY be a mule.
The other reason I didn't worry about mowing- I have a Dixon Zero-Turn for mowing. If I really needed to mow with one of the tractors, I'd probably fit a deck to the 109... but what I'd really like to do, is fit up a tow-behind self-powered sickle-bar to the 108 to cut the 8' weeds that grow on the back side of the railroad track.
Haven't run into problems with the Loader having traction problems, but if I do, there's a high likelyhood it'll get custom-made 25" rubber-treaded steel wheels with bolted-on chain-links. Look for the fender clearance to improve, however- next step is to insert 1" a riser block between frame and fenders to improve clearance, and at the same time, I'll remove the riser block from under the seat.
The bucket will eventually be pulled off, and the arms will be fitted with a quick-attach mechanism. I'll rehab the bucket, and fit it with a mating face, as well as make a set of forks for lifting materials.
I built Loader-Mutt from gathered parts, most were from machines that'd been parted-out, and were destined for the scrap recycler.
I built it up specifically for use with the loader... many of the 'features' which factory decks required for mounting don't exist on Loader-Mutt- there's no PTO sheave, no engagement mechanism, the front quick-attach hooks are gone (to allow additional swing for the steering rams), the rockshaft and center lift don't exist... didn't have 'em, didn't need 'em. In contrast, it has features that Cub Cadets otherwise DON'T have, like power-steering, treadle S/R operation, etc, and LOTS of ground-clearance. It's very at-home growling through sand and dirt to get a bucketful, and does it with very minimum effort from the operator. Once the steering-brakes are in place, it'll REALLY be a mule.
The other reason I didn't worry about mowing- I have a Dixon Zero-Turn for mowing. If I really needed to mow with one of the tractors, I'd probably fit a deck to the 109... but what I'd really like to do, is fit up a tow-behind self-powered sickle-bar to the 108 to cut the 8' weeds that grow on the back side of the railroad track.
tschweizer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2000
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- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Kraig, that's Scott Croonquist.
Travis, thanks! I'll make a note of that. Now where are the additional photos of your 4x4? 
)
)
Ok, so how do those 4X4's syncronize the 2 sets of drive wheels or does one set just go along for the ride? Allis-Chalmers experimented with hydro front wheel assist on the D-21. 10 were built, 9 were converted back to the original 2 wheel drive. What they found was it was impractical for the operator to vary the flow to the front wheels. Too much and the fronts spun. Too little and the back wheels pushed the fronts negating the FWA benefits.
For anyone that has struggled with putting snowchains on,here is a link to mounting instructions that I found on the net.Works real well and got both chains on in less than 5 minutes without raising the tractor or driving on to the chains.
http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_200_1690_00_SK_SMA.pdf
http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_200_1690_00_SK_SMA.pdf
Tyler T., I have a BUNCH of photos of Kelly B's articulated along with some video I took of it in action at PDV4. Very nice design. He also made a front loader version with a rear mounted engine. I have a couple photos of that one too.
Brian D., there are 2 hydros with one drive shaft and one control linkage, from what I understand and have observed in the case of Kelly's design, they do fight each other slightly but not enough to cause problems. Scott Croonquist's design is all gear drive, it was still in the design stage when at PD6 and he was having some issues with the steering but the drive system appeared to work great.
Brian D., there are 2 hydros with one drive shaft and one control linkage, from what I understand and have observed in the case of Kelly's design, they do fight each other slightly but not enough to cause problems. Scott Croonquist's design is all gear drive, it was still in the design stage when at PD6 and he was having some issues with the steering but the drive system appeared to work great.
David D., nice looking 70!!
Before you request all the photos I have of Scott C's articulated Cub be sure your email can handle a 12.6MB zip file. )
)
I've split the image files of Scott C's articulated Cub into two zip files the first is 5.6MB, the second is 7.1MB. )
)
S
sogle
Guest
hey there just wondering if I can put 3 point system or something on the back of my 682 and if could be hydralic ?
thanks
thanks
Hey guys, just wanted to say thanks to the people that helped with my snowthrower. I checked everything and I think for the most part my lack of throw is due to a rusty spout and I probably have worn paddels. But I don't need to fill my neighbors drives so I'll leave it for this winter and work on it this summer. I also made a rear weight bracket and have two 50# leyland weights hanging off the back.
Again thanks for the help and the pics!
Jim
Again thanks for the help and the pics!
Jim
Stacy O.
You can on both counts but it would be kinda pricey, If you still have that 1250 & 108, it would be cheaper and better in the long run to convert one of those since they have a cast iron rearend, JMHO.
You can on both counts but it would be kinda pricey, If you still have that 1250 & 108, it would be cheaper and better in the long run to convert one of those since they have a cast iron rearend, JMHO.
bmcmeen
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- Oct 31, 2002
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Terry B. -
Nope, in all our years here we've never seen one...
Um, I think there was even a picture posted of one within the last week. They all mount just fine once you get past the thought of drilling holes in your fenders. Cozy made one, Sims made one, and <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> had a "delux" cab (all steel one with soft doors) and a fully soft "windbreaker". You can find pics of the "delux" cab mounted on both the 1450 and my 169 at my site.
You also need to understand what kind of stresses an all-steel cab puts on those fenders - you might not want to "permanently" put a cab on a daily driver, cuz you WILL crack the fenders eventually. BTDT. Thus, I remove the cab every spring with the help of whoever I can sucker into coming over <font size="-2">Thanks Tom and Tedd!!</font>
Nope, in all our years here we've never seen one...
Um, I think there was even a picture posted of one within the last week. They all mount just fine once you get past the thought of drilling holes in your fenders. Cozy made one, Sims made one, and <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> had a "delux" cab (all steel one with soft doors) and a fully soft "windbreaker". You can find pics of the "delux" cab mounted on both the 1450 and my 169 at my site.
You also need to understand what kind of stresses an all-steel cab puts on those fenders - you might not want to "permanently" put a cab on a daily driver, cuz you WILL crack the fenders eventually. BTDT. Thus, I remove the cab every spring with the help of whoever I can sucker into coming over <font size="-2">Thanks Tom and Tedd!!</font>
Here 'ya go... axle-carnage!
Interesting that it let loose while I was backing into Loader-Mutt's parking space... nothing in the bucket, no wheelies, no bouncing... just BANG!
Not sure why it chose when it did, but it did. Next fab-project... SUPER-AXLE!
Interesting that it let loose while I was backing into Loader-Mutt's parking space... nothing in the bucket, no wheelies, no bouncing... just BANG!
Not sure why it chose when it did, but it did. Next fab-project... SUPER-AXLE!
