Archive through August 23, 2010

[dtanner]

Guys in the am I have to travel 68 miles on way to repair a pto on a 125. I ordered the guy a rebuild kit fro CCS and I see the pictures he now sent me that the clutch fingers are toast and the button in the center is broken. I need to know what button fits on the three fingers on his 125. I have some spare parts here but I need to take the right parts with me.Just what center button is on the clutch face on a 125? thanks

 

[T-Mo]

Frank S.,
Yes implements from a 128 will fit a 129. Both wide frames in the same series.

 

[fcurrier]

Grazing Cubs:

Not a male in the bunch. How do they keep multiplying?

Wilbur: The button should look like the one on your 125.

 

[wshytle]

Here's the 109 going to the rescue of the Gravely. I think it blew Saturday while trying to get the garden back under control. The grass is 3 feet tall in places and the Gravely let me down once again. The 109 has become my yard wrecker for towing things around and it does it so well. I found it jerks Gravelys as well as "green" things.

The Gravely will be for sale very soon.

 

[bproctor]

Several weeks back I discussed fiberglass dash repair or replacement and someone expressed interest in doing a "How to repair a fiberglass dash" post. I have a FREE 125 dash that needs TLC if someone wants it. Just send your address.

 

[digger]

Don T.

 

[sblunier]

Don,

So will my loader, but not knowing what pump he has, etc. there may be some variation. Either way, 45 sec. is WAY WAY WAY too long.....I would personally consider 10 sec. slow, as I'm use to 4-5 sec.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Just posting these for Jerry Bliler. I'll let Jerry give the descriptions.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Frank,

 

[rporter]

I am looking at a QA42A snow blower(or thrower) and it needs the Drive pulley. I will put it on a 127. Can someone tell me What size/dimensions the Pulley Needs to be? I am thinking maybe... 3 or 3 1/2 " O.D. ?? I don't want to overspeed ,but sure could use your advise ! Thanks ,

Rich

 

[fcurrier]

Rich: 4 - 1/2" on the one here.

 

[rporter]

Frank, Thanks, Rich

 

[sblunier]

...But a 4" (or if you have good bearings, 3-3/4") will make it work better!!!!!

 

[dtanner]

Charlie "Digger" Proctor

Thanks I know I have one or two of that type pto button here and will have to order more parts soon.

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - All I wanna know is did it sound like a DIESEL when it did THAT?

 

[dtanner]

Frank c
(Wilbur: The button should look like the one on your 125.)

If you remember my 125 is the cub that will have a re-bore and since it has no engine in it and I saw a sin number cut off I wanted to see what the two type buttons for the PTO might look like.So I will take both styles to be sure.I did get my 129 Ready to get the key replaced on the pump for the loader.with the relief valve set at 1200 psi ,it will break the key fast with the pto set up right. It won`t slip at all.

 

[rporter]

Steve, Thanks for the advice, I'm thinking ,from what you guys say, maybe a 4" would give me a little better performance but not overtax the driveline .?? And thanks everyone, you're a big help. Think It'll Snow Soon??!!

Rich

 

[dtanner]

Pictures of my 100 for Frank C

It should have a creeper

 

[kshultz]

Hey Guys....the crazy squealing sound was just the front PTO. And the smoke that I saw is apparently just on a cold start up. So things are good here with my 982 SGT baby!! COME ON!!!

Please check out the wanted section.

 

[bnolte]

A couple of weeks ago I noticed that one of bolts that attaches the right side of the transaxle to the frame of my 129 was loose, and had backed out quite a ways. I tightened it, and found the other bolt on the right side was loose as well. I looked at the left side of the transaxle, and the bolts were MISSING, and soon determined that they had snapped off at some time in the past, flush with the center part of the rear end. After tightening the loose bolts, I had to cut the grass, and noticed that the hydro speed control almost immediately worked better.

I figured having narrowly avoided disaster this time, I figured I better fix it properly sooner rather than later, so I went off to TSC for a #3 easy-out spiral screw extractor, along with a fresh 1/4" drill bit to try to extract the stub. Of course I had to pull the axle, which meant draining the transaxle, and proceeded to drill the hole through the stub of the old bolt. As you can guess, the extractor merely chewed up the remains of the old bolt, along with any of the original 3/8 thread. Once I had satisfied myself that the original threads were beyond salvage, I stopped after work for some more tools, this time a fresh 23/64 drill bit, a 7/16 tap, and the necessary grade 5 hardware I would need.

Its all back together, though I need to let the RTV cure overnight before pouring the Hy-Tran back into the transaxle. Here is what she looks like before I replaced the axle and wheel.