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Archive through May 23, 2011
- Thread starter mpatterson
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
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- Home of the Plow Special
Steven-
It was years ago when I replaced the pump on my tractor, but I just went to NAPA and asked for their cheapest electric fuel pump. It's a "low pressure" pump that shouldn't cost you much more than about $40 and will look something like this:
If you search around and aren't in too much of a hurry, you can probably find one online for cheaper. (~$30)
Hmmmm..... I wonder if our sponsors carry an aftermarket pump like this?
<font size="-2">Hint, hint, cough, cough....</font>
It was years ago when I replaced the pump on my tractor, but I just went to NAPA and asked for their cheapest electric fuel pump. It's a "low pressure" pump that shouldn't cost you much more than about $40 and will look something like this:
If you search around and aren't in too much of a hurry, you can probably find one online for cheaper. (~$30)
Hmmmm..... I wonder if our sponsors carry an aftermarket pump like this?
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- Allen Schumacher
Wayne, I love it when a plan comes together !
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Steven, I would also be sure to wire the switch in series with seat switch and the "on" side of the PTO switch; so you don't create the condition where the motor is no lomger running, but gas is spewing out all over.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
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Jeremiah-
That's a good idea. My tractor had the seat switch defeated LONG before I got it.
I can tell you that the pump doesn't put out enough pressure to "spew gas all over" if the engine isn't running. I guess it just doesn't have enough pressure to get past the carb-float.
That's a good idea. My tractor had the seat switch defeated LONG before I got it.
I can tell you that the pump doesn't put out enough pressure to "spew gas all over" if the engine isn't running. I guess it just doesn't have enough pressure to get past the carb-float.
i'm still having trouble with my k301, i've tried new crank bearings and made shure the cam has the right end play and i still have alot of play in the gears between the cam and crank. I'm not shure there should be any play there at all and i really dont want to put the eninge back in the tractor to find out i still have a knocking rattle sound. any help or ideas are more then welcome. thanks
jesse
jesse
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Art, I'm imagining a situation in which there is a line rupture, the operator jumps off the seat which stops the motor (and the tractor), but the gasoline keeps coming out of the ruptured line.
The only thing keeping this from becoming a truly catastrophic event is a source of ignition. My thinking is that it is better not to have fuel running/spewing/dribbling out seeking a source of ignition.
It is better to be safe than sorry. There was a fellow killed by a gas/tractor incident in our area a few years back.
At least with the interlock you improve your chances.
The only thing keeping this from becoming a truly catastrophic event is a source of ignition. My thinking is that it is better not to have fuel running/spewing/dribbling out seeking a source of ignition.
It is better to be safe than sorry. There was a fellow killed by a gas/tractor incident in our area a few years back.
At least with the interlock you improve your chances.
hello Dave and thanks for responding. with a feeler gauge i have a tight 11,000 10 is the upper end of the spec and 12 won't fit. i'd say i have somthing like half a toothe maybe of play. only time i hear the noise is when i have the vavle springs on or i hold the crank and move the cam, the noise sounded awful when it was runing. I'm not shure if shimming up the cam anymore would make it quit or not. I'm affraid the teeth are worn on the crank or cam but they look good to me. any ideas or comments are great and thanks to everyone who responds.
jesse
jesse
Thanks guys-
The d**n 129 is together and running as good as could be expected. I did find out this engine is bored .010 over and it doesn't even smoke on start up. It should be a good worker for the neighbor. I was taking it down my drive a while ago and she quit moving after I slowed a little. While walking back to get a tow tractor I figured the solid dowel broke in the driveshaft. When I got back I found the whole, unbroken dowel on the drive beneath the tractor. I knew the hole was a tad wallowed but I thought it would stay. It now has the famous 1/4" bolt through the coupler. I'll run it tomorrow for a while and then retorque the head, finalize the carb and park it. I now have to go through a 42" deck and weld some baffling, anti-scalp runners, etc. I hope to have this project finshed Friday if not before. I have put so much of my own stuff on hold and I'll be glad to get back to it all. BTW, it's another 129.
Thanks again for all of the moral support.
The d**n 129 is together and running as good as could be expected. I did find out this engine is bored .010 over and it doesn't even smoke on start up. It should be a good worker for the neighbor. I was taking it down my drive a while ago and she quit moving after I slowed a little. While walking back to get a tow tractor I figured the solid dowel broke in the driveshaft. When I got back I found the whole, unbroken dowel on the drive beneath the tractor. I knew the hole was a tad wallowed but I thought it would stay. It now has the famous 1/4" bolt through the coupler. I'll run it tomorrow for a while and then retorque the head, finalize the carb and park it. I now have to go through a 42" deck and weld some baffling, anti-scalp runners, etc. I hope to have this project finshed Friday if not before. I have put so much of my own stuff on hold and I'll be glad to get back to it all. BTW, it's another 129.
Thanks again for all of the moral support.
hi guys !
Wayne Shytle
(I knew the hole was a tad wallowed but I thought it would stay) I have used an automotive hose clamp over a drive shaft pin to keep it in place till I could find a replacement drive cup.
another thought on the low pressure fuel pump. The supply line running to the carb you can add a tee and run that line back to the tank. I guess one could also add a relief valve to only by pass when the pressure got to high.
jesse jones
I have never seen much play in the teeth at the crank cam teeth area.Just which side on the cam did you shim it? If you shimmed it on the pto end that could force the cam back off the crank teeth???
Wife is on vacation again and Canada Post is talking strike.There goes my Cub time and all we seem to get here this spring is rain. I might be bringing home a new toy in the am if it stops raining.Kawasaki Nomad 1500 for me to play with lol. Have a great nite all. later Don T
pS Wayne I hope you had a Happy Birth day (59) and counting.
Wayne Shytle
(I knew the hole was a tad wallowed but I thought it would stay) I have used an automotive hose clamp over a drive shaft pin to keep it in place till I could find a replacement drive cup.
another thought on the low pressure fuel pump. The supply line running to the carb you can add a tee and run that line back to the tank. I guess one could also add a relief valve to only by pass when the pressure got to high.
jesse jones
I have never seen much play in the teeth at the crank cam teeth area.Just which side on the cam did you shim it? If you shimmed it on the pto end that could force the cam back off the crank teeth???
Wife is on vacation again and Canada Post is talking strike.There goes my Cub time and all we seem to get here this spring is rain. I might be bringing home a new toy in the am if it stops raining.Kawasaki Nomad 1500 for me to play with lol. Have a great nite all. later Don T
pS Wayne I hope you had a Happy Birth day (59) and counting.
thanks for your input Donald. i installed the shims on the flywheel side right where the service manual said to. The more i think about the way the gears are cut and i only had one thin shim to start out with, i bet i was hearing the cam moving back and forth. I had 11,ooo end play with 2 shims and now with 3 i have 4,000. 5 would almost fit but was to tight. i bet with only one shim i had maybe 15,000 end play. the manual says to install one shim and that's all i did. never gave it a second thought. i hope 4,000 is'nt to tight but the cam spins free and smooth. i've been doing the cub hobby for 11 years and this one has been kicking my but. Thanks for all the advise and comments. I'm glad i joind this site. it looks like a good place to be.
jesse
jesse
jbaker
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- jeff l baker
Hey guys I havent been on in a few days and probaly will be a few more,, a storm rolled thru and tore up my house pretty good from hail, holes in siding and all metal trim dented, shingles, and no power for 14 hours. Good thing for generators, all the family is safe. and to stay on topic ALL the cubs are safely tucked away in the barn.
Need help with my QL PTO reassembly…
I recently tore down my 1450 to replace a leaking crankshaft oil seal. Oil had blown all over the inside if the front of the engine and PTO – so I took it off to replace the seal and to clean the PTO components. Now I need to get everything back together and I’ve got a few questions…
- When testing the coil using a digital multimeter – where do I place the multimeter leads? (The coil is presently bolted to the block) I’ve found *tons* of references to using the Ohm function to verify a resistance of 3.0 – 3.4ohms – but I don’t know exactly where to place which lead to place exactly to verify this… Also, does the ignition/batt need to be on or off for this? Here is a link with some useful info - I just need a little extra...
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30
- If I have the coil installed and plugged in, and turn on the key and PTO switch – should I be able to detect a magnetic field present with a screw driver? (this is with the coil mounted to the block, but the rest on the PTO not reinstalled yet…
- Is it possible to replace the bearing in the PTO? Mine seems like it could use some lube…
All this boils down to the fact that I’d like to test and verify the PTO before I finish putting everything back together.
Thanks for any help,
-Calvin
I recently tore down my 1450 to replace a leaking crankshaft oil seal. Oil had blown all over the inside if the front of the engine and PTO – so I took it off to replace the seal and to clean the PTO components. Now I need to get everything back together and I’ve got a few questions…
- When testing the coil using a digital multimeter – where do I place the multimeter leads? (The coil is presently bolted to the block) I’ve found *tons* of references to using the Ohm function to verify a resistance of 3.0 – 3.4ohms – but I don’t know exactly where to place which lead to place exactly to verify this… Also, does the ignition/batt need to be on or off for this? Here is a link with some useful info - I just need a little extra...
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30
- If I have the coil installed and plugged in, and turn on the key and PTO switch – should I be able to detect a magnetic field present with a screw driver? (this is with the coil mounted to the block, but the rest on the PTO not reinstalled yet…
- Is it possible to replace the bearing in the PTO? Mine seems like it could use some lube…
All this boils down to the fact that I’d like to test and verify the PTO before I finish putting everything back together.
Thanks for any help,
-Calvin
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Dave Hassler - saw your initial post and wondered if it may be the condensor or the coil starting to break down from heat. Let us know which you khink the problem really was, coil or condensor.
Mike Patterson - I gotta say my feeling on buying a parts tractor is you're really just buying a bunch of used parts. You really can't tell much about their condition. Even tho you say the engine runs, that's all you really know of it. Although it's generally unlikely that all the parts will have problems, you have to expect they won't be the best. I've purchased a few parts tractors that really ended up being just a bunch of wore out parts. You already know a Series 1 engine can be a problem, and will be at some point. And on the rearend, I think I always ended up with it left over, never sold most I had. About like the frame. The whole idea of buying a parts tractor should be paying less than the total value of the major parts. It should be like buying a wreaked car at an insurance auction. Unless you got other bidders you should get it pretty cheap. In this case I'm not a 782 guy (to new for me) but it sounds as tho the valuable parts are already gone. I'm thinking the hydro pump, lift cylinder and lines are most valuable. A running Series 1 may be worth a buck, but it's a Series 1 and only works with a Series 1. Probably alot of others laying around out there. Also remember many of the parts won't sell because of shipping costs so you are dealing with a local market. I would recommend putting a minimum value on the few major parts and then only paying 1/2 of that total, if that much. Sorry the Forum rules don't allow actual numbers. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die, they just find another resting place.
Mike Patterson - I gotta say my feeling on buying a parts tractor is you're really just buying a bunch of used parts. You really can't tell much about their condition. Even tho you say the engine runs, that's all you really know of it. Although it's generally unlikely that all the parts will have problems, you have to expect they won't be the best. I've purchased a few parts tractors that really ended up being just a bunch of wore out parts. You already know a Series 1 engine can be a problem, and will be at some point. And on the rearend, I think I always ended up with it left over, never sold most I had. About like the frame. The whole idea of buying a parts tractor should be paying less than the total value of the major parts. It should be like buying a wreaked car at an insurance auction. Unless you got other bidders you should get it pretty cheap. In this case I'm not a 782 guy (to new for me) but it sounds as tho the valuable parts are already gone. I'm thinking the hydro pump, lift cylinder and lines are most valuable. A running Series 1 may be worth a buck, but it's a Series 1 and only works with a Series 1. Probably alot of others laying around out there. Also remember many of the parts won't sell because of shipping costs so you are dealing with a local market. I would recommend putting a minimum value on the few major parts and then only paying 1/2 of that total, if that much. Sorry the Forum rules don't allow actual numbers. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die, they just find another resting place.
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