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Archive through April 29, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Well-known member
May 26, 2011
Jim Harder
Oh I am sure its just snake oil. But I truly believe in any and all products Lucas makes. Back when I drove for a living I had a truck that made me a believer in there products. The engine in my semi would use a gallon of oil around the 1500 mile make. It didn't smoke or leak or run bad @ all. Started to use Lucas as a test and it stopped. Plus there Hub oil additive really cooled down the wheel bearings on my trailer. Not saying that there gas treatment is the best but again I truly like there products. Jim
2 weeks ago I sold my CC149 with all my attachments and was left cub-less. I needed to downsize and update and I know it's swear words, but I bought a brand new Cub GT1054. I just wanted to thank the members of this forum for all the info and help over the years. This site is a great resource. I haven't been posting for awhile but have been lurking here and there. Thanks Charlie for the few parts I got off you also. And to Kraig for the endless supply of pictures.
I had to go out and buy new tines for my troy-bilt because the guy who bought the tractor (and the tiller with the new tines I used exactly once, last fall)wanted the tractor as soon as possible.
Once again, thanks everybody. Someday I will be getting another one.
My view on the sub-soiler is that first, you'd probably never get enough traction on the tractor to be able to pull it in the first place and if you did, you would either kill the engine (speaking of gear drives), slip the clutch or perhaps break something in the tranny. I seem to recall some discussion that the IH gear drives are good for about 14 hp, even though a 582 is a 16 hp GD. Makes me wonder if IH did or changed anything with respect to the hydro drive tranny's to deal with higher hp in the design from the get-go.

On the other hand, a sub soiler in some smaller scale might be a cool implement to have in the collection.

Finally got around to changing the hydro fluid in the 126's tranny yesterday and changed the engine oil too. Next up is greasing the chassis and sharpening the deck blades and greasing the spindles. Thinking about being a little proactive and replacing the mule drive pulleys too. Tubes in the front tires are holding air great - first time this tractor has set in on place for a week and not had a flat....

Also bought some nuts and bolts. The QA for the deck on this tractor leaves something to be desired IMHO. I am going to bolt the sub frame to the tractor frame. Around my neck of the woods, there is much uneven terrain and not much in the way of flat runs - like in the midwest. Sometimes it's like you are mowing diagonal, with and across ditches at all times. I've had the 44A on the 109 and the 48" deck on this 126 pop loose when mowing. It has also happened when backing-up too. Bolting down the subframe will eliminate that. Nothing more embarrassing than mowing with the mighty IH along side my brother who is mowing with the MTD and finding myself on the ground trying to reattach a deck while he is mowing circles around me...

The Kohler in the 126 is the fastest starting engine in any engine powered anything I've ever owned - car or tractor! Generally I use a 420ish CCA battery in all of my tractors, but I can see something with much less CCA doing just fine in this tractor.

Maybe next winter, I'll pull it into the basement for a winter project. Go through the steering, maybe pull the engine and refresh the clutch and maybe some paint.

One other thing I need to look-into is the brakes have very little movement - if any when you mash the pedal flat. Brake pads look like they've got a good 1/8 of thickness on them, but the threaded rod where the brake/clutch gives the brakes a yank is threaded in as far as it will go for adjustment. I need to get into that too.

Also picked-up a coil spring at TSC for the clutch return spring.

The 126 is shaping-up into a nice working tractor and I'm looking forward to mowing with it this summer!
A friend of mine said I should look at cleaning the jet in the carb... I showed him the carb diagram and he said its in the tower that goes down into the bowl in the center of the float...

I do remember seeing a brass seat in there that looked like it could be unscrewed with a flat head, but, it wasn't part of the cleaning instructions and I saw no further details so I left it alone

Should I unscrew that seat and check inside? Since there are no instructions, is it just as simple as removing the highspeed needle then unscrewing the seat?

Thanks =)
Bill J, The QA handle on the front of your 126 should lock in the mule drive. Sometimes the springs fall out or get soft. Just zip tie it up to hold it closed. My 782D has that problem.
Bill said - "Makes me wonder if IH did or changed anything with respect to the hydro drive tranny's to deal with higher hp in the design from the get-go."

Nope, the hydro is a leech and saps horsepower!

Brian E., said - "Should I unscrew that seat and check inside? Since there are no instructions, is it just as simple as removing the highspeed needle then unscrewing the seat?"

Make sure you remove both needles, have a extremely well fitting screwdriver and you can carefully remove it. There are a series of very small holes and they can get clogged. I've had to do this on my 73 once or twice over the years.
Funny I see WD40 mentioned here . point of interest on my 1999 Golden Falcon fifth wheel camper trailer that I bought from the original owner 5 years ago. The day I looked at it in his yard I saw the white rims were like new paint . I asked did you paint the rims . he said every winter before I cover the 4 wheels and tires I spray WD40 over the rims and leave them wet to dry with a coating of WD40. So I still spray those rims every winter I have owned that fiver. The rims show NO sign of rust and the paint still looks like new today. I now spray all my summer rims for my car and truck and find the same results . WD40 was made to expel water, moisture and is great for electrical contacts .
Working on getting a hitch set up for the 782.
Can someone show me the dimensions to items #1 & #4?
3 things about WD40, it has a polymer component so it is good as a preservative, the other is that when wet it is flammable! Putting it in a switch and not giving it time to dry can be very hazardous! Also, many body shops won't even let it in the door, the polymer can become airborne and prevent paint from adhering or curing. It became known to cause many re-paint / repairs / issues. A few other forums I'm on regarding paints /coatings all say the same thing, use it at home and carefully!
Frakenstein bolts are 7/8 fine thread x2" turned down to 5/8" with about 3/4 thread left the bolts have to be fully threaded

@Mike: Thanks, I'll give it a try... I'll make sure to note the current setting on both needles prior to removal as well...

As frustrating as this all is, it's also alot of fun!
Tom: Stop by any time and bring that #40 box blade with you!

John: just a show piece. It is a new style Brinly that had never been used. Seemed like a good candidate to go with the yellow and black. My older style Brinlys get the white.

Not a stainless coulter. I just polished up the. moldboard and coulter like I do on my big plows and wipe them with a thin film of, yes! WD-40.

Does anyone know if the guy that was making and selling the scalloped coulters for the Brinlys is still doing them?
OK guys and gals, saw Paul T.'s plow and what a great job he did! I've been trying to decide what to do with mine, keep it?,trade it?,sell it?. I haven't used it in years. After seeing Paul's, i'm keeping it!, not only am I keeping it, I just finished disassembling it so I can restore it. The most important thing I forgot to do before I took it apart was... TAKE PICS. I guess i'll start taking them, starting with the pile of somewhat rusty pieces and go from there. Thanks for the inspiration Paul!!
Well Rick B, for the last 17 years I have been mowing 2 acres of crappy yard with a 15.5hp Craftsman lawn tractor with chains on for a very steep bank. I put a starter on it, my fault, a couple of batteries over the years, and a mower deck once. I believe a big part of it is how you take care of what you have. I just sold it to a guy for $330 and he thanked me a few times for the good deal. Looked brand new other than a few scratches here and there. Thanks.
Plow protection:

90wt. gear oil will last and protect much longer than WD-40 for long term plow storage, especially in less than ideal conditions (back of unheated shed, corner of barn, etc.).....grease does even better.

It's not as "clean" to use 90wt. or grease, but plows are meant to stay rust free for good performance above all else.

A new style plastic Folgers coffee can with 1" of 90wt. in the bottom and a short paint brush standing up inside makes a neat clean and self contained way to protect your equipment, and store the oil on a handy shelf without a mess.

I use a short section of 1/2" pipe nipple when I need to fab #4. Cut it just a hair fuzz longer than the bar thickness.
Nick H;
As you said, this site is a great resource with a great many giving and kind folks like Kraig and others...
so, please disregard the harsh tone from the last post directed to you......
and by the way, I agree with you....when taken care of, the GT1054 will serve you a long time..
I spray my plow with a coating of Graphite paint after every use. It protects it from rust and it prevents soil from sticking while it's wearing off. It's no where near as messy as oil or grease...