Sheds and Shops

[dcharette]

Lewis, I bet the 30 degree angles would be fun.I had to cut the 45's for the corners.The top course is called taper tops and they don't make corners for the top course.
I will add pics as it progresses.
I think the shop won't get started until the frost lifts,unless we get about a week above freezing.

Bill J.
I'm trying to minimize the foundation that will have to be parged.I beleive that an acrylic parging is used.

 

[kide]

Gotta love this forum!!! I had never heard the term parge or parging ... Google brings the info home..

 

[aschumacher]

Gerry, you were talking about new words. Here is what I found for parge. Get out your construction dictionary !

 

[dschwandt]

I'd just LOVE to hear Norm Crosby's rendition of that definition!!!

Bughole induced outgassing......Geesh....
Doncha jusr HATE it when that happens!!! Too much beans and cornbead!!!?? Pepto Bismal anyone!!!

Dave S

 

[dcharette]

or a thin coat of cementitious????

Well,just shoveled 6" of wet snow out of the basement.The pumper is booked for 9 am tomorrow morning to pour the basement floor.Wish i could have gotten the 1650 down there with the thrower on it.

 

[dcharette]

Here's a few more pics.I used the 1650 to clear the snow where the shop is going and used the potato digger to dig the trench for the footings for the floating slab.It worked pretty good.Hopefully pour the slab on Thursday!!
Here's a pic of the house as well.Floor is poured and framing is started.

 

[bjamison]

Need some recommendations on a new shed. I'm looking at putting up one of these metal buildings - I posted the link sometime back to the manufacturer's website, but here it is again:
http://www.carolinacarportsinc.com/configurator/index

What I'd like to do is put up a building with two garage doors. There would be space equal to the width of the garage doors between the garage doors and the opposite sides of them. This would be on the long side of the building and descriptively is like this:

wall-space-door-space-door-space-wall

The idea is to put tractors, junk, pop-up camper, firewood, etc, to the extent possible out of the garage door lanes and that would be to either side of the two garage doors and the space between them.

So I have some questions:

- How tall should the building be? Nothing bigger than a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck would ever go through them.

- How deep (as you drive into it) is desirable? 20ft, 24ft - looking for some reasonable depth such that I can pull in a vehicle and yet not be so crowded that I can't work around it or even move a tractor around the end of it?

- how wide should be garage doors be? I'd like to get a full size truck through them without being so narrow that I'd smash a mirror.

- If you look at the website, they offer vertical or horizontal siding. I'm thinking vertical. Don't know if this is better for looks or strength or both. What you do?

- I'd like to put this building on a concrete pad. Question is - how thick and what type - rebar or concrete with fiber or both.

This is just in the planning stage - not sure I'll do it, but I want to figure out what experience others have with their garages, and lessons learned from theirs you can share.

 

[thoffman]

Bill,
My Dad always told me to figure out what you need and go one notch bigger. Always worked out well for me.

 

[vthomley]

Bill J - make it bigger... Meaning what ever size you think is correct then build it bigger. and yes I'm speaking from experience. Until you get to Charlie sized sheds you're going to run out of room or wish you had built it a bit bigger.

I have a 30' x 40' shed with 10' sides and one large 12 foot wide 9 foot high door, plus 2 service doors. I really like my shed but the next one will be bigger, taller, and have 2 large doors.

Now to answer your questions.

How high - I thought the same I'd never put anything bigger than a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. Then I bought a 36' travel trailer... It doesn't fit I would have like to pull into the shed to service the air conditioner or fix the vent on the roof...

How deep - when I had my '97 F-350 Crew Cab I'd pull it into the shed to change oil or something and I'd have to move all my Cub Cadets outside. And extra 10' or so would have helped... Or less Cub Cadets but that's not happening.

How wide of a door - I really like my 12' wide door.

Concrete pad - mine is fiber with rebar around the thicker edge for frost or building code or something.

I have 1 movable 32" x 72" work bench, a 48" x 96" work bench. my 4' x 7 ' wagon(literally a Cub Cadet work table), a snowmobile, an ATV, 7 Cub Cadets, several wood working tools, and more in my shed. If it was heated I'd be out there every day of the winter...well I guess my 3 car garage is heated. I painted a little rattle can Cub Cadet Yellow last night!

Here's a pic of my house n shed.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL - My shop is 24W x 36D with full 8 ft sidewalls. I planned the shop when I had a SWB reg cab pickup and 2 CC's and planned for one antique Farmall w/loader. Now I have 3 CC's, a LWB reg cab pickup and TWO full size Farmalls. So now I wish I'd have built something like a 24X48+ or so.

I have one 12 ft W x 7-1/2 ft tall roll up door on a gable end because I needed my corners for large shop tools and work benches. The 36 X 80 walk-in door is on the side wall 8 ft from the front corner. For your design I'd go with at least a 7 ft high X 9 ft wide roll up door. And bigger is always better both in height and width. My 4X4 pickup barely sneeks under a 7 ft door and my one old Farmall barely fits and the other bigger one I have to remove the exh. pipe. And plan ahead now, even with a 9 ft W door you won't be able to open a car door with the car/truck sitting in the doorway, that's why I went with a 12 ft W door.

If you're going to park a full size 1/2 or 3/4T pickup, a LWB reg cab takes up all of a 20 ft deep garage stall to leave room to walk by both frt & rear, and a LWB 4-door probably wouldn't fit in a 24 ft deep garage. But if you only plan on smalle cars and shorter pickups, don't forget that a work bench on the back wall uses up 3-4 ft of depth.

Concrete is a good idea, on a slab that large I'd go 5 inches thk minimum with rebar and steel wire mesh. Not a fan of the glass fiber reinforcing.

Height of sidewalls depends. I wanted to go 10 ft sidewalls but that added 25% to the cost of my building as quoted so settled for 8 ft walls. There's not that much more cost to add two feet to the building, but the company just didn't want to build it that tall. All the sidewalls were pre-constructed, trucked in and attached to the floor on site. The vinyl siding & windows were even installed, and they didn't want to mess with getting permits to haul ten ft wide walls. It was interesting the night the salesman came and we spec'd it out and I ordered it. The salesman almost got up and left once or twice and I almost told him to get lost 2-3 times.

You'll have to check out your local building codes yourself to see what they allow as far as height and square footage and set-backs from property lines, etc.

My Dad was sure I'd build a small pole barn building and I priced a couple. WAY TOO expensive for what I wanted in a shop, hard to insulate, the concrete floor was not included, and they're noisy. After Dad saw my shop he had a similar one built only smaller, 24X24 with the same size door for his work shop.

 

[dcharette]

Hey Bill J.
I agree with everyone here, build it a little bigger than you are planning if you can afford it. It all comes down to the mighty dollar,that i know.
My last shop was 18x40.It was full and i also had a 12x16 shed out back,and a lean 2 behind it.
My new shop is going to be 24x42.Probably still won't be big enough but we will have a double car garage on the house.
I poured a floating slab,with a 12" footing 12" deep with 2 rows of 5/8" rebar.6x6" mesh throughout the slab and a 5" slab.
very similar to my last slab and i never had any issues with cracking.
My last door was 14' wide,only because it was close to my house and it made it easier to get a vehicle in if i needed to.
I'm going with a 10' wide door on this shop on the gable end.10' high walls,lots of height for hanging deer and building shelves up high for items you don't use every day.
I'm thinking of putting a wall across the shed so i have a section 18 or 20 x 24'. I have a wood stove for heat for cold days.
I was also thinking of an opague composite door to let light and heat through in the winter,but again a regulr 10'x8' garage door is about $800 less.
You would have to see what size you can build on your lot,i'd say no smaller than a 10' door and 10' walls.
I'm putting steel on the roof and vertical vinyl siding.
When are you planning on building?

 

[ljones]

Well the shop is finally done. Here are some
pics.

 

[ljones]

More.

 

[ljones]

The floor.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Very nice!

 

[kshultz]

Lucas,
Very nice job, but I don't see a frig. for the cool tools.

 

[fcurrier]

I'm impressed! Heat?
I thought I'd spend some time in the CubHouse today. +10* when I touched the Monitor off. 5 hours and 2 gal of Kerosene later it was +56*. I moved back into the cellar!

 

[lpalma]

Looking good Lucas,and so is that 123.

 

[ljones]

Frank, no heat yet other than a small space heater. Hopefully I can will get the ceiling insulated this summer so I can get some real heat next winter.


Lewis, that's the 122. The blade, one set of the wheel weights, and the s/g bracket all came from you.


Thanks for the compliments I never thought this thing would get done.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Restored 1930's Auto Shop