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sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Dave,
Thanks.
Actually, I had no real intention of doing anything but freshening up this engine for normal use, a stock 16hp 13-fin K-341AQS. During reassembly, the machine shop missed the the cam endplay a little bit and I was getting a very noticeable knock at all speeds. End play on the cam is spec'ed at .005-.010"....mine was at .018". Since I knew I would have the cam out (well, not out, just "loose") I had that little "hot rod" thought run through my head and sought advice on the cheater and/or K-361 cams.
In the end, I decided that since the engine didn't any "special" treatment in the ports or valve seat area to improve flow, the addition of a "hot" cam would probably not yeild torque/hp significant increases, considering the expense. I would much rather use the "complete" approach you took (if super performance would have been the goal) than the JEGS/SUMMIT "parts changer" approach of a cam only and no other work.
I pulled the engine down, shimmed the cam to .006" and crank endplay to .008" and left it at that. Seems to have taken some of the rattle out of it, but I haven't really wrung it out yet. I still think I might be getting just a little cam noise at med.->low idle, or it may just be this big'ol 16hp bangin' around a little bit. Either way, I'll pull the deck off of the 149, put it back under the 1650 and see how it does after everything is tightened up.
It all started out as "let's freshen this one up before I do any paint work on it, that will give me a chance to "run in" this new-to-me tractor for a while and get the bugs out before it gets pretty".
Thanks.
Actually, I had no real intention of doing anything but freshening up this engine for normal use, a stock 16hp 13-fin K-341AQS. During reassembly, the machine shop missed the the cam endplay a little bit and I was getting a very noticeable knock at all speeds. End play on the cam is spec'ed at .005-.010"....mine was at .018". Since I knew I would have the cam out (well, not out, just "loose") I had that little "hot rod" thought run through my head and sought advice on the cheater and/or K-361 cams.
In the end, I decided that since the engine didn't any "special" treatment in the ports or valve seat area to improve flow, the addition of a "hot" cam would probably not yeild torque/hp significant increases, considering the expense. I would much rather use the "complete" approach you took (if super performance would have been the goal) than the JEGS/SUMMIT "parts changer" approach of a cam only and no other work.
I pulled the engine down, shimmed the cam to .006" and crank endplay to .008" and left it at that. Seems to have taken some of the rattle out of it, but I haven't really wrung it out yet. I still think I might be getting just a little cam noise at med.->low idle, or it may just be this big'ol 16hp bangin' around a little bit. Either way, I'll pull the deck off of the 149, put it back under the 1650 and see how it does after everything is tightened up.
It all started out as "let's freshen this one up before I do any paint work on it, that will give me a chance to "run in" this new-to-me tractor for a while and get the bugs out before it gets pretty".
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
Guest
To anyone that plans on being in eastern WI on Saturday,stop by our GT pull at Newton,Wi which starts at 4PM. We'd love to have some guests stop in and meet with us. Look for the ol' D&D Motorsports trailer and you will find one of us wandering aimlessly looking for some tool or changing something on a puller ;-)
Newton is in Manitowoc County just off of I-43 between Sheboygan and Manitowoc. Great pull there each year,tough dirt and lots of ka-booms when things don't go right.(hard on drivelines)
Newton is in Manitowoc County just off of I-43 between Sheboygan and Manitowoc. Great pull there each year,tough dirt and lots of ka-booms when things don't go right.(hard on drivelines)
jkoenig
In Remembrance 2023
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2002
- Messages
- 1,319
- displayname
- Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
Will a quietline engine fit in my narrow frame? I may have found a 1250 or 1450 (guy's not sure which) engine. I need to replace the one in my 126. It's already .030 over and then some. Will either Q/L engine fit with my flywheel, pto, and s/g? The pto bolt is broken off, but that won't be an issue for the mechanical pto application.
Thanks, very much.
Thanks, very much.
R
rmull
Guest
Jim K.- You don't need the new block. . you can take the 12hp block to a 14hp bore. Not sure, but I am not so sure the mechanical PTO will work on a E-PTO shaft. . .could be wrong.
jkoenig
In Remembrance 2023
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2002
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- 1,319
- displayname
- Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
Hey, Ryan,
Good to hear from ya! Thanks,I know about punchin' the 301 out, but I've got this 321 that I was thinking about having sleeved and starting over with. Then I wouldn't have to worry about thin spots in block walls.
Can a 321 be sleeved? One local guy passed. He didn't like the looks of how close the sleeve would be to the bolt threads.
Thanks, Jim
Good to hear from ya! Thanks,I know about punchin' the 301 out, but I've got this 321 that I was thinking about having sleeved and starting over with. Then I wouldn't have to worry about thin spots in block walls.
Can a 321 be sleeved? One local guy passed. He didn't like the looks of how close the sleeve would be to the bolt threads.
Thanks, Jim
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Aug 4, 2006
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Ryan,
I have a 149 block and a 1650 block side by side out in the garage. Both measure 3" from the block to the end of the PTO shaft and both shafts are 1" dia........electric to mechanical should be no problem.
I have a 149 block and a 1650 block side by side out in the garage. Both measure 3" from the block to the end of the PTO shaft and both shafts are 1" dia........electric to mechanical should be no problem.
D
dvogt
Guest
for anyone interested in Quarter Scale season , the www.nqspulling.com has been updated for the upcoming season schedule.
B
bschmucker
Guest
Does anybody have any advice on building a K361 18 hp overhead valve Kohler for pulling. I'm not sure how much more work or money it will take, and I would also like to know how they perform if they're ok or great or what. I have been told that you don't see many of these motors so do you think that getting parts will be a problem. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
F
farmall gray
Guest
BJ,
I used to pull with a guy that ran one in a CC.
I worked good but he said it liked to "eat"
cylinder heads. At that time a new head cost $400.
ouch!
I used to pull with a guy that ran one in a CC.
I worked good but he said it liked to "eat"
cylinder heads. At that time a new head cost $400.
ouch!
D
dvogt
Guest
I ran a K361 for many years. 1st thing to overcome is the block & pan . you need to cut the out side flanges off then weld in some peices to plug the holes you create. then machine the block base flat. then tap the holes that are already there to put a cub style pan on it. there is alot of untaped hp in those engines. but reliability is an issue. heads are usually a problem . they are expensive
rsapp
Member
Jim K- I have a 129 with a 16hp quite line engine on it with a mechanical PTO. It works just fine!
jkoenig
In Remembrance 2023
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2002
- Messages
- 1,319
- displayname
- Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
Thanks, Robbie.
The 129 is a wide frame. I'm sure that would work with at most some minor bugs to iron out.
My 126 is a narrow frame with no room for the bigger flywheel (more air flow, more cooling for the greater heating of the 14's and 16's).
Because of the greater heat output, I'd much prefer the 14 block to the 12 bored out to 14 specs, but my 14 block is beyond service limits. Can anyone tell me if it can be sleeved?
Which risk is less: the 12 bored to 14 spec's with the risk of hot spots, or the 14 sleeved with the sleeve coming very near to the head bolt holes? My local engine machinist said he'd sleeved them before with okay results, but he didn't want to do mine! Humph! I think he's just swamped.
The 129 is a wide frame. I'm sure that would work with at most some minor bugs to iron out.
My 126 is a narrow frame with no room for the bigger flywheel (more air flow, more cooling for the greater heating of the 14's and 16's).
Because of the greater heat output, I'd much prefer the 14 block to the 12 bored out to 14 specs, but my 14 block is beyond service limits. Can anyone tell me if it can be sleeved?
Which risk is less: the 12 bored to 14 spec's with the risk of hot spots, or the 14 sleeved with the sleeve coming very near to the head bolt holes? My local engine machinist said he'd sleeved them before with okay results, but he didn't want to do mine! Humph! I think he's just swamped.
Been kept away from my cubs for a while, but just when I was getting back to them, my Dad let me know that we may have a gift coming our way in the form of a 3 cyl Kubota diesel.
Question, then, is that will this engine fit (with mods) in a regular wideframe, or only in the x82 series?
Question, then, is that will this engine fit (with mods) in a regular wideframe, or only in the x82 series?
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
Guest
Rich,depends somewhat on what model Kubota engine you are dealing with. If it was from a 782d for instance(D600b) or a D640 series in will fit much easier than a D750 etc.(They are quite a bit larger overall)
It is just so much simpler to drop it into an 82 series than into a Q-line etc...that is all I would look to do if I were you.
Also,Rich,if you plan to fit it into a gear drive plan for some serious work,a hydro is a much easier fit(that clutch on a gear drive will need some room)
Find a 782D or later model and look at just how tightly packed the engine "compartment" is compared to a Kohler and you will see why. I gotta tell ya one thing,a sweet running diesel in a CC frame does make it all worth it!!
It is just so much simpler to drop it into an 82 series than into a Q-line etc...that is all I would look to do if I were you.
Also,Rich,if you plan to fit it into a gear drive plan for some serious work,a hydro is a much easier fit(that clutch on a gear drive will need some room)
Find a 782D or later model and look at just how tightly packed the engine "compartment" is compared to a Kohler and you will see why. I gotta tell ya one thing,a sweet running diesel in a CC frame does make it all worth it!!
D
dvogt
Guest
Wyat from what 've seen there is a point where you need to add a mechanical fuel pump to keep the fuel supply good when working it hard
D
dvogt
Guest
I might al;so add that at a certain point it becomes necessary to open up passages in the carb to get more fuel in.
In tearing down the transmission for my project tractor, I went ahead and started crack checking parts (only the top shaft so far) by way of a Magnaflux dye penetrant kit. Am I wasting my time and giving myself a false sense of security finding out there's no cracks or am I finding out something worthwhile?
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