D
dvogt
Guest
depends on the clubs rules. generally stock is 1050 lbs with the driver . but this varies with all the small clubs around the country. sometimes theirs a HP breakdown also with a set weight
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N
nconn
Guest
thanks again don
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
"Cheater" Cams:
I know there are places that will regrind a stock Kohler cam for pulling applications similar to the one Dave K. describes in "Killer Kohler".
Are there any advantages to a cheater cam in a stock K-341 AQS 16hp for every-day use????? Disadvantages???? The $40-50 price for a regrind that Dave quoted seems like cheap power, BUT I don't want something that would shorten the engine lifespan, or hurt anything under long periods of continuous hot weather work mowing grass etc.
Comments?????
Are there any other modifications that need to be made to accomodate a cheater cam in a K-341????
I know there are places that will regrind a stock Kohler cam for pulling applications similar to the one Dave K. describes in "Killer Kohler".
Are there any advantages to a cheater cam in a stock K-341 AQS 16hp for every-day use????? Disadvantages???? The $40-50 price for a regrind that Dave quoted seems like cheap power, BUT I don't want something that would shorten the engine lifespan, or hurt anything under long periods of continuous hot weather work mowing grass etc.
Comments?????
Are there any other modifications that need to be made to accomodate a cheater cam in a K-341????
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
Guest
Steve,not a problem,and no additional changes need to be made. Contact Scott at Madson's and he can set you one up and ship it to you.
T
tdelooza
Guest
Steve,
For what its worth…
My 122 has a K341 with a ring gear starter. It has been bored to about 4”, something you wouldn’t do for an every day user. Other than that, internally, its mostly stock. One thing you may want to check on is if your cheater cam still has the compression release on it. The cam I originally had for this engine, cast cam reground by Vogel, didn’t have the release on it. With the bigger bore, and no compression release the starter wouldn’t turn it over. Don suggested to me that I should get an 18hp (K361) cam, as it would still have the release and be a little better grind than the stock 16. The new cam cost me about $90 from my Kohler dealer.
For what its worth…
My 122 has a K341 with a ring gear starter. It has been bored to about 4”, something you wouldn’t do for an every day user. Other than that, internally, its mostly stock. One thing you may want to check on is if your cheater cam still has the compression release on it. The cam I originally had for this engine, cast cam reground by Vogel, didn’t have the release on it. With the bigger bore, and no compression release the starter wouldn’t turn it over. Don suggested to me that I should get an 18hp (K361) cam, as it would still have the release and be a little better grind than the stock 16. The new cam cost me about $90 from my Kohler dealer.
D
dvogt
Guest
I know Morris Kemp . He's been around a long time . pulls NQS in the winter. very tough competitor.
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
Guest
Steve,ya gots mail... but yes,the power difference is noticeable when used for plowing,snowthrowing etc. It will also increase the gas consumption a bit of course,due to increased duration(but it is worth it)
Tim is right,a K361 cam is really nice in a 341!
Don or B&B,can we add a link to Brian Miller's pulling tips to this page? Guys would really utilize it a lot. Nathan and others would find it very helpful.
Tim is right,a K361 cam is really nice in a 341!
Don or B&B,can we add a link to Brian Miller's pulling tips to this page? Guys would really utilize it a lot. Nathan and others would find it very helpful.
Jim D., Here's a temporary link to Brian Miller's pulling tips.
D
dvogt
Guest
what off set do you have? most 4x8s need triming. 6x6 needs major triming
if its not much you could stud the hub by screwing a 7/16 fine thread bolt in from the back side. then use a lug nout to hold the wheel on . then you can use or make a wheel spacer to move the wheel back
if its not much you could stud the hub by screwing a 7/16 fine thread bolt in from the back side. then use a lug nout to hold the wheel on . then you can use or make a wheel spacer to move the wheel back
D
dvogt
Guest
Bolens use a more centered offset . you would have problems there
Joe i aint sure, I know he has the "Land Lord" tractor he has had, 4 cylinder VW.
I went buy bud brummetts, he has a motor he built basically entirely custom back 20 years ago. 30 cube, 371 or somethin like that detroit blower, fuel injected. Con rod is some 12" long.
Pretty damn cool, even for being 20 years old. Never pulled it but ran it.
I went buy bud brummetts, he has a motor he built basically entirely custom back 20 years ago. 30 cube, 371 or somethin like that detroit blower, fuel injected. Con rod is some 12" long.
Pretty damn cool, even for being 20 years old. Never pulled it but ran it.
Steve B.,
I have some comments on the cheater cam. My engine now has 85.4 hours on the clock (hard for me to believe)and still performs very well. I've noticed no degredation in performance and engine starts well hot or cold. Idle is good, throttle response is excellent. I've noticed no metal in the oil after break in and valve lash is stable and consistent. Oil changes are at 25 hours running Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic. Oil consumption is very low - I don't add anything between changes. Under normal use, 3600 rpm mowing, I notice no fuel consumption increase over stock. However, pushing it hard at 3900 through heavy grass, it will consume more fuel than a stock K-301. Fuel used is 89 octane with an occasional shot of Marvel Mystery oil. I never hear any signs of audible spark knock or combustion irregularities. I've tried 80/100 low-lead aviation gasoline and, other than the delightful smell, can't notice any performance change.
The only possible down side is that torque under 1800 rpm is less than stock, but I don't work the engine at this speed anyway. There is mechanical valve noise at idle (900 rpm) which is more noticeable than a stock cam. I believe this to be the camshaft "jacking" due to the combination of a more rapid valve event combined with the properties of helical gears, even though the end clearance is to book values. It's not a bad sound and I've kind of gotten to like it.
Putting the cheater cam in an otherwise stock engine would probably not make the most of it's potential. I would recommend a general cleanup of the ports, matching of the carburetor-isolator-inlet port, and maybe .040 off the head. There should be no reason that the K-341 wouldn't respond as well as the K-301, on a percentage performance increase.
With the above mods performed, you will notice a performance increase that you'll be very pleased with.
I have some comments on the cheater cam. My engine now has 85.4 hours on the clock (hard for me to believe)and still performs very well. I've noticed no degredation in performance and engine starts well hot or cold. Idle is good, throttle response is excellent. I've noticed no metal in the oil after break in and valve lash is stable and consistent. Oil changes are at 25 hours running Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic. Oil consumption is very low - I don't add anything between changes. Under normal use, 3600 rpm mowing, I notice no fuel consumption increase over stock. However, pushing it hard at 3900 through heavy grass, it will consume more fuel than a stock K-301. Fuel used is 89 octane with an occasional shot of Marvel Mystery oil. I never hear any signs of audible spark knock or combustion irregularities. I've tried 80/100 low-lead aviation gasoline and, other than the delightful smell, can't notice any performance change.
The only possible down side is that torque under 1800 rpm is less than stock, but I don't work the engine at this speed anyway. There is mechanical valve noise at idle (900 rpm) which is more noticeable than a stock cam. I believe this to be the camshaft "jacking" due to the combination of a more rapid valve event combined with the properties of helical gears, even though the end clearance is to book values. It's not a bad sound and I've kind of gotten to like it.
Putting the cheater cam in an otherwise stock engine would probably not make the most of it's potential. I would recommend a general cleanup of the ports, matching of the carburetor-isolator-inlet port, and maybe .040 off the head. There should be no reason that the K-341 wouldn't respond as well as the K-301, on a percentage performance increase.
With the above mods performed, you will notice a performance increase that you'll be very pleased with.
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