mgwin
Well-known member
Charlie,
Your compressor is larger than mine.
Your compressor is larger than mine.
-
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Finally doing a 100!
- Thread starter mgwin
- Start date
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mgwin
Well-known member
A few more parts sandblasted and primed.
I am running out of parts to blast.
Hope to sling some paint next weekend, weather permitting.
I am running out of parts to blast.
Hope to sling some paint next weekend, weather permitting.
Timothy, I'll answer for Marty using his words, I changed the pertinent info into bold text:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Marty A. Gwin (Mgwin) on Sunday, April 02, 2017 - 03:02 pm:
I guess I should give some tips as I progress.
I like to sandblast almost everything down to the bare metal. This gives you a nice smooth surface to start with.
The reason I say almost everything is because some things don't like sandblasting.
Example: Don't sandblast your starter/generator, that wouldn't be a good idea!
I wear disposable rubber/latex gloves through the entire process (blasting, priming, and painting)to keep the oil in my skin from getting on the parts.
Also, be very careful on the tranny. Mask off any holes, seals, or cracks (gear stick). You wouldn't want any media to get inside.
Before priming, blow off the dust with an air hose and wipe the parts off with a tack cloth. This removes the dust so the primer can absorb into the metal.
For the cast iron parts, use a thick, clean stiff brush instead of a tack cloth. The cloth will leave "cloth fuzz" all over the cast iron.
As far as priming, I like to use Rustoleum automotive primer (grey, not red). It goes on good, and you don't have to pull out all the paint equipment.
Give the primer at least 24 hours to cure before sanding off any runs.
Sand all parts before painting to aid in adhesion.
After sanding, use a tack cloth to remove the dust. Now you are ready to paint.
More tips to follow.
<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Marty A. Gwin (Mgwin) on Sunday, April 02, 2017 - 03:02 pm:
I guess I should give some tips as I progress.
I like to sandblast almost everything down to the bare metal. This gives you a nice smooth surface to start with.
The reason I say almost everything is because some things don't like sandblasting.
Example: Don't sandblast your starter/generator, that wouldn't be a good idea!
I wear disposable rubber/latex gloves through the entire process (blasting, priming, and painting)to keep the oil in my skin from getting on the parts.
Also, be very careful on the tranny. Mask off any holes, seals, or cracks (gear stick). You wouldn't want any media to get inside.
Before priming, blow off the dust with an air hose and wipe the parts off with a tack cloth. This removes the dust so the primer can absorb into the metal.
For the cast iron parts, use a thick, clean stiff brush instead of a tack cloth. The cloth will leave "cloth fuzz" all over the cast iron.
As far as priming, I like to use Rustoleum automotive primer (grey, not red). It goes on good, and you don't have to pull out all the paint equipment.
Give the primer at least 24 hours to cure before sanding off any runs.
Sand all parts before painting to aid in adhesion.
After sanding, use a tack cloth to remove the dust. Now you are ready to paint.
More tips to follow.
mgwin
Well-known member
Kraig,
You took the words right out of my mouth!
Tim,
I used a small angle grinder with a wire brush, a drill with a wire brush, a handheld wire brush, a pocket knife, and some sand paper!
You took the words right out of my mouth!
Tim,
I used a small angle grinder with a wire brush, a drill with a wire brush, a handheld wire brush, a pocket knife, and some sand paper!
mgwin
Well-known member
Ready,
Get set,
Go!
Also sandblasted and primed more parts.
Get set,
Go!
Also sandblasted and primed more parts.
Marty, you and David are both making great progress! Gotta love fresh shiny yellow paint.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Marty G. How come the yellow paint always looks darker in the can and then lightens up once applied to the parts?
You're making me want to get some paint applied. p.s. You're making great progress.
mgwin
Well-known member
Marlin,
Uh.... dunno, maybe it's the lighting.
The camera has some to do with it.
Look at the frame pic on my trailer outside, and then the dash tower pic in my basement. The frame looks orange, and the tower yellow.
I know flash, and non flash pics are very different.
Uh.... dunno, maybe it's the lighting.
The camera has some to do with it.
Look at the frame pic on my trailer outside, and then the dash tower pic in my basement. The frame looks orange, and the tower yellow.
I know flash, and non flash pics are very different.
mgwin
Well-known member
Timothy,
Sand it and wipe down with a tack cloth.
Sand it and wipe down with a tack cloth.
mgwin
Well-known member
Finally, after about a month, I got a day without it raining.
However, it is supposed to start in a few minutes!
Anyway, I got to sling some yellow!
However, it is supposed to start in a few minutes!
Anyway, I got to sling some yellow!
mgwin
Well-known member
Tim,
Start in one spot ( I usually start on the bottom) and work your way to the other end going all the way around with a thin "tack coating."
By the time you go all over it, the starting spot will be fine to paint again.
If you are painting small pieces, go over each one with one coat, and then you will be able to go back to the first one you started on again.
I then go back to the starting spot and put another thin coat on.
Keep putting the thin coats on until you get the desired look.
I like to keep putting coats on until it looks real shiny and thick.
I am definitely no professional, but this works real well for me.
Rolled it in the basement today.
Start in one spot ( I usually start on the bottom) and work your way to the other end going all the way around with a thin "tack coating."
By the time you go all over it, the starting spot will be fine to paint again.
If you are painting small pieces, go over each one with one coat, and then you will be able to go back to the first one you started on again.
I then go back to the starting spot and put another thin coat on.
Keep putting the thin coats on until you get the desired look.
I like to keep putting coats on until it looks real shiny and thick.
I am definitely no professional, but this works real well for me.
Rolled it in the basement today.
mgwin
Well-known member
How about some more yellow.
Painted some more parts so I can start putting it back together.
Assembled the clutch for painting and taped up the fiber disc so it wouldn't get any paint on it.
And some white too.
For some reason the white seemed to go on better than the yellow.
I don't think I had a single run with the white!
Always doing a few extra parts. Can't seem to quit doing that.
Painted some more parts so I can start putting it back together.
Assembled the clutch for painting and taped up the fiber disc so it wouldn't get any paint on it.
And some white too.
For some reason the white seemed to go on better than the yellow.
I don't think I had a single run with the white!
Always doing a few extra parts. Can't seem to quit doing that.
mgwin
Well-known member
Put some skin on today.
When mounting tires, put some ArmorAll on the lip of the rim and tire.
It will go on much much easier.
You can almost get the tire on without any help from a "pry tool."
Notice I said "almost"!
When mounting tires, put some ArmorAll on the lip of the rim and tire.
It will go on much much easier.
You can almost get the tire on without any help from a "pry tool."
Notice I said "almost"!
Marty, nice progress.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Very nice!!!
