Finally doing a 100!

[mgwin]

Finally got started today on the 100.
I looked over the other 100 threads and noticed most may have started, but few, if any finished the task.
I also noticed they stopped posting too. Sad to see them lose interest.

My interest has not diminished in the least, maybe my health has a little.
As long as I can breathe and move I will keep on with my projects.

Anyway, I have started today and will continue until it is finished.
I work meticulous, so my progress will be somewhat slow. My full time job prevents fast progress also, but I will persevere with the allotted time I have.
Here is the first pic of my restoration.

"Strip it down, strip it down."

 

[jstertz]

Marty--its my personal favorite model, although over the last five years or so I've learned to like all of them with varying levels of interest. So, I will definitely stay tuned into your thread and cheer you on along the way. It never ceases to amaze me how with only its first revision, IH got so much right that it continues to be a favorite over 50 years later

 

[mhomrighausen]

Marty G. Awesome to see work begin. My oldest on has a 100 with rear pto that we got many years ago from Kunau Implement in Preston, Iowa for $150.00. It's Justin's daily worker. At the time it needed a new head gasket and some minor adjustments. My 100 will be part of when I retire projects.

 

[mgwin]

Marlin,

A 100 with a rear pto for 150 bucks! Wow!
Around here you might get what you see on wheels in my pic for $150!

 

[mgwin]

"Patience, grasshopper!"

"The man who moves mountains begins by carrying away small stones one at a time."

Tag it and bag it!

 

[eford]

Marty, wow!
I have a 125 in pieces already, maybe the project I should do next is already half done just being apart!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Marty G. Back in 2007-8 I acquired and re-sold two 100s with rear pto. If I recall I gave $100 for one and $175 for the other. The $175 one even had a NOS carburetor on the seat pan. It didn't take long to get either one running. I kept the extra carburetor. And the sale that I bought the second 100 on had a neighbor there that sold me is 149 with a cracked piston for $150.00. I'm giving $100.00 for a rolling chassis without the engine and pan seat. Narrow tires all around. When Ryan McShane was going to ISU we were finding Cub Cadets reasonable all over the place.

Earl F. Your 125 wouldn't take much to re-assemble and get running. 125s are the Cat's Meow.

 

[jwiggins]

From the 128 pics I've seen, especially that engine!!!,,,

It's pretty darn clear you finish what you start,,,
Like others have stated, very eager to "see" your progress,,,, "ESPECIALLY" since this one is a 100,

Hey Marty, as far as I'm concerned that is one Lucky 100,,,

Looks like the hood has "100 #2" on it,,, Where in the heck is 100 #1,,?!????!,,?!?

 

[mgwin]

Took the 23x8.50s off and put them in the building, put the 6-12s on, got the 23z10.50s out of the building and took the tires off the rims.

Brought the engine in, along with the hydro unit.

Jason,

I did not number the 100s in any particular order. 100 #1 & 3 are in the building. 100 #4 is a roller/parts donator, and is under the shelter behind the building.

Got this little fella polished back up and ready. The P.O. had sprayed paint on it, touching up the hood.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Marty G. Four 100s? Pretty nice collection. To make the tires look new again and to soften them up a bit use a paint brush and coat them with vegetable oil inside and out.

 

[mgwin]

Another day of working on my 100.
I needed a tie rod off the donor 100. The tie rod on the one in the basement was bent a little.

After taking this off, I noticed the donor was rusted more than it looked.
Spent most of the day taking more parts off of the donor while I could still get them off.

I did take the tranny out of the frame, removed the creeper, took the tranny outside and removed the rear cover and drained it.
I also took the steering column out of the frame along with the steering linkages.

I did manage one pic of the progress.

 

[mgwin]

Since it was around 20-25 degrees today, (don't laugh, Charlie!) I decided to work inside.

I decided to remove the PTO from the engine, since this would be fairly easy.....WRONG!

If trying to remove set screws from anything, always make sure you have some good allen wrenches that are not rounded off.
If they are rounded on the end, you can grind the end off a little to make the edges crisp again.

Make sure you use plenty of penetrating fluid.

Also, remove any dirt/grime out of the set screw top, so the wrench will go all the way down into the set screw.

You definitely don't want to round out any set screws!

After removing the set screws, I tried to pull off the pto. It wouldn't budge at all.
The bearing was seized up on the drive shaft.

Take a Dremmel tool and cut one of the screw heads off. This will allow you to be able to knock out the button and spring in the end of the pto.

After the button and spring are out, you can take a gear puller and pull the pto off of the drive shaft.

Then you can remove the locking collar.
If the pto was stuck, you can bet the basket will be too.

Now for the basket.
If you don't have a brass punch/rod, it would be a very good investment to get one.
They will not "mushroom" metal when using them to drive in/out parts.

Take a regular punch and knock the keyway in just a little to get it loose.
Then take the brass rod/punch and drive the basket in a little too.

This will allow you to sand all the rust off of the driveshaft.

Take sand paper and sand all the rust and any set screw burrs off of the driveshaft.
This will allow you to remove the basket without bending it.
Take a larger gear puller and pull the basket off carefully.

As I mentioned earlier, spray penetrating fluid often.

Success!
Look at all that nasty rust!

 

[wshytle]

Marty-

I've always just used a long punch to remove the most stubborn ptos. I remove all of the set screws and the spark plug then just approach the pto from down by the points cover. Tap, turn a bit, tap, turn a bit, and you should see it moving almost immediately. The punch will be at an angle but can still get a "good bite".

I'll try your advice on a basket pulley I'm removing from a K321. I have drilled a couple with 5/16" holes then assembled a puller using needle nose to hold the nuts on the back side until started. I usually heat the hub up pretty hot as well. I don't like drilling holes though. It's always a last resort. And the penetrating oil is a given every time.

Looking forward as things progress with your 100. I've got one here I need to go through so I'll be paying attention.

.

 

[mgwin]

Wayne,

Yes, the tap of a hammer while pulling with my other hand normally gets the pto off.
Not this time. It was like taking it off with the set screws still in!

Being in maintenance for almost 30 years, I have seen my share of stuck pulleys,sprockets, etc.
This one was stuck real good.

I hope my other old tractors come apart better than this one has!

 

[mgwin]

Sandblasted, tack clothed, primed, waiting for paint day!

 

[mgwin]

More parts sandblasted.

Sandblasted and primed.

Going to take the axles to work to press out those dang pins.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Marty G. Don't forget to drill a hole through the pins. That will help immensely in the pin removal.

 

[mgwin]

Thanks Marlin!

I don't know if I have a drill bit long enough to go all the way through.
Will a hole partially through the pin help any?
I will go check now.

 

[mgwin]

Marlin,

Will a 1" bit work?

I just drilled about half way, flipped it over, and drilled the other side.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Marty G. Even a half inch hole or smaller (not too small) will help. As Charlie P. stated, the hole will help the metal to "collapse" when pressure is applied to the pin. Charlie would be able to help you out with drill size. I'd drill from both sides if your bit isn't long enough. Every bit helps.