Marty, it's a 3/4" pin, probably somewhat hard also.
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Finally doing a 100!
- Thread starter mgwin
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mgwin
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Dang, those pins were in there!!
Pressed the first pin out with around 17 tons of pressure.
The second one, not so easy. Took around 26 tons of pressure and several tries before this one moved!
I had to build up my nerve to press this hard, and pray the "push rod" didn't fly out.
Sounded like a 22 magnum went off when it moved.
Both pins were straight pins with no groove/notch for grease to go in. Guess that's why they seized up so bad.
David S,
The pins are not all that hard.
Start hitting them with a hammer, and watch those babies mushroom fast!
Pressed the first pin out with around 17 tons of pressure.
The second one, not so easy. Took around 26 tons of pressure and several tries before this one moved!
I had to build up my nerve to press this hard, and pray the "push rod" didn't fly out.
Sounded like a 22 magnum went off when it moved.
Both pins were straight pins with no groove/notch for grease to go in. Guess that's why they seized up so bad.
David S,
The pins are not all that hard.
Start hitting them with a hammer, and watch those babies mushroom fast!
Marty, good to hear that you got them out!
hydroharry
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Marty and David - well lookie here!!!! I just happen to have one of those non-grooved axle pins still around. I used to use it to drive out other axle pins ONCE I finally got this sucker out and cleaned it up.
Marty - just like you said, the head sure does mushroom. Here's a pic of it next to a 6" WP carriage bolt for wheel weights. Not the best pic - you can't see where it wore in the bushing welded to the axle channel on the frame but the wear marks are there. I think this was removed from a 122 I had. It must have been around that time period that IH switch over to the groove for grease version. At least it keeps them from rusting in place but they still can be buggers to get out.
Marty - just like you said, the head sure does mushroom. Here's a pic of it next to a 6" WP carriage bolt for wheel weights. Not the best pic - you can't see where it wore in the bushing welded to the axle channel on the frame but the wear marks are there. I think this was removed from a 122 I had. It must have been around that time period that IH switch over to the groove for grease version. At least it keeps them from rusting in place but they still can be buggers to get out.
mhomrighausen
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Marty G. Good to hear that the pin is out. I'm pretty sure that IH used the same material as a Grade 2 bolt to lessen the wear on the axle and frame parts.
So, the pins in the 100's are solid??
Guess I'll have that to look forward to when the 100 and the 70's turn come up, huh?
The 126 I did last year and the 104 this year never had an issue w/the pins being stuck. They both were worn though on the ends enough to notice in the axle slop as well as the fore and aft play.
Guess I'll have that to look forward to when the 100 and the 70's turn come up, huh?
The 126 I did last year and the 104 this year never had an issue w/the pins being stuck. They both were worn though on the ends enough to notice in the axle slop as well as the fore and aft play.
hydroharry
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David - if you're really lucky, someone will have changed it over it's so far 50+ year life.
mgwin
Well-known member
Harry,
I did not see any wear on the pins except on the ends, just rust. I would almost swear they had loc-tite on them!
David,
Oh yes, the axle pins are solid as can be. Surprised me too.
Unless your 100/70 tractors are in excellent condition, you need to go ahead and take them all apart now while you can still can get them apart!
The rust will eat that pretty IH slam off of the bolt heads.
If they are sitting outside, my best wishes for a successful tear down.
If the coiled pin is broke in the axle pin, you might as well go ahead and get the sawzall out also.
The broke pin is a good sign the axle pin is stuck some kind of good in the axle.
I did not see any wear on the pins except on the ends, just rust. I would almost swear they had loc-tite on them!
David,
Oh yes, the axle pins are solid as can be. Surprised me too.
Unless your 100/70 tractors are in excellent condition, you need to go ahead and take them all apart now while you can still can get them apart!
The rust will eat that pretty IH slam off of the bolt heads.
If they are sitting outside, my best wishes for a successful tear down.
If the coiled pin is broke in the axle pin, you might as well go ahead and get the sawzall out also.
The broke pin is a good sign the axle pin is stuck some kind of good in the axle.
hydroharry
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Marty and David - lets think about this pin and how it fits and what it does in the axle.
First, the pin is inserted into the bushing welded to the front of the axle channel, then thru the hole in the center of the axle, and into the bushing on the back of the axle channel.
This pin is held in place with a spring roll pin inserted thru a hole near the top of the bushing at the front of the axle channel, thru the hole in the pin and out the hole in the bushing near the bottom of the frame.
Grease is applied to the outside of the pin thru a zerk at the center of the axle. This allows the axle to rock side to side on this stationary pin.
Seems to me that as long as the tractor is used on a somewhat frequent basis, and as long as the grease zerk at the center of the axle is greased once or twice a year, the pin should remain free within the axle allowing the axle to rock side to side during use.
The problem (RUST) may develop if the tractor sits un-used for a long period of time, and the axle is ungreased for a long period of time.
My thinking is the first thing to do if there is a need to remove this pin is apply grease to the grease zerk and rock the axle to spread the grease out as much as possible. Step 2 would be to apply solvent to the spring roll pin in the front bushing. I would do all this with everything striped from the frame except the front axle - and I would have the frame upside down. This would allow the pin to sit toward the opposite side of where pressure was being applied during use and wearing the ends of the pin.
With luck, once the spring roll pin is removed you'll be able to drive the pin out. The entire pin should not be rusty - just exposed areas that never received grease.
The pin really outta move - it's just a matter of getting it located into the correct position so it's line up and will slide out.
I don't know what Marty did to use a BIG PRESS to push it out, but the force must have somehow aligned it.
Marty - did you look over the bushings welded on the axle channel? The Service Manual recommends replacing them if worn. I actually never saw one worn - the pin was always worn.
First, the pin is inserted into the bushing welded to the front of the axle channel, then thru the hole in the center of the axle, and into the bushing on the back of the axle channel.
This pin is held in place with a spring roll pin inserted thru a hole near the top of the bushing at the front of the axle channel, thru the hole in the pin and out the hole in the bushing near the bottom of the frame.
Grease is applied to the outside of the pin thru a zerk at the center of the axle. This allows the axle to rock side to side on this stationary pin.
Seems to me that as long as the tractor is used on a somewhat frequent basis, and as long as the grease zerk at the center of the axle is greased once or twice a year, the pin should remain free within the axle allowing the axle to rock side to side during use.
The problem (RUST) may develop if the tractor sits un-used for a long period of time, and the axle is ungreased for a long period of time.
My thinking is the first thing to do if there is a need to remove this pin is apply grease to the grease zerk and rock the axle to spread the grease out as much as possible. Step 2 would be to apply solvent to the spring roll pin in the front bushing. I would do all this with everything striped from the frame except the front axle - and I would have the frame upside down. This would allow the pin to sit toward the opposite side of where pressure was being applied during use and wearing the ends of the pin.
With luck, once the spring roll pin is removed you'll be able to drive the pin out. The entire pin should not be rusty - just exposed areas that never received grease.
The pin really outta move - it's just a matter of getting it located into the correct position so it's line up and will slide out.
I don't know what Marty did to use a BIG PRESS to push it out, but the force must have somehow aligned it.
Marty - did you look over the bushings welded on the axle channel? The Service Manual recommends replacing them if worn. I actually never saw one worn - the pin was always worn.
mhomrighausen
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Harry B. When i had to get a replacement axle for the 105 years ago the used axle never had a grease zerk on it. I had a gentleman in the machine shop drill and tap on for me. I wonder if some of them accidentally went out that way. I'm hoping to feel well enough to pick up the 104 and 100 in two weekends. I also need to purchase a coping saw. I'm going to try drilling a hole through the pivot pin and then cut sideways almost through the pin if it is stuck on the 100.
I replaced the bushings on the 126 I did last year.
Believe me, it's a total and complete PITA right from the get-go as they appeared to be spun welded or fused into the C-channel and had to be cut out in pieces w/a sawzall. I believe I posted pic's at the time.
Believe me, it's a total and complete PITA right from the get-go as they appeared to be spun welded or fused into the C-channel and had to be cut out in pieces w/a sawzall. I believe I posted pic's at the time.
I replaced the bushings on the 122. Correct that it is a PITA. The pin rusted in the axle. It sheared the roll pin and the axle pin rotated in the bushings wearing them. Happened back when my Dad had it.
mgwin
Well-known member
Harry,
The axle pivot pin rusted inside the axle way before I acquired the 100s.
This caused the coiled pin to break, and then the axle pin pivoted with the axle.
There were no grooves in the middle of the pin for the grease, and no grease zerks on the axle.
Turning the frame upside down did not allow me to drive out the pin.
It did allow me to be able to get to the pivot pin with my sawzall.
Turned upside down, there was a small gap between the axle and the axle channel where the bushings are. This is where I cut the pins, between the axle and the channel.
I cut the pivot pin completely through on each side of the axle so I could get the axle out.
The only part of the pivot pin left was what was in the axle. Both ends of the pin that were in the bushings fell out when I cut the pin with the sawzall.
This is when I took the axle to work and pressed the pins out of the axles.
As I mentioned earlier, it took 17 tons of pressure to press out one pin, and 25 tons to press out the other pin. (I had two different axles)
P.S. As Marlin reminded me, I also drilled a hole through the center of the axle pins to help with the removal of the axle pins.
The axle pivot pin rusted inside the axle way before I acquired the 100s.
This caused the coiled pin to break, and then the axle pin pivoted with the axle.
There were no grooves in the middle of the pin for the grease, and no grease zerks on the axle.
Turning the frame upside down did not allow me to drive out the pin.
It did allow me to be able to get to the pivot pin with my sawzall.
Turned upside down, there was a small gap between the axle and the axle channel where the bushings are. This is where I cut the pins, between the axle and the channel.
I cut the pivot pin completely through on each side of the axle so I could get the axle out.
The only part of the pivot pin left was what was in the axle. Both ends of the pin that were in the bushings fell out when I cut the pin with the sawzall.
This is when I took the axle to work and pressed the pins out of the axles.
As I mentioned earlier, it took 17 tons of pressure to press out one pin, and 25 tons to press out the other pin. (I had two different axles)
P.S. As Marlin reminded me, I also drilled a hole through the center of the axle pins to help with the removal of the axle pins.
hydroharry
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Dang Marty - I wish you could show us a pic of those pins after you got them out.
mgwin
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Harry,
Nothing special, just a 3/4 inch rusty pin.
Here is the end that had the coiled pin in it.
I drove the coiled pin out (what was left of it) so I would know what size hole to drill in my new pivot pin.
Here is the same piece laying at the end of my new pivot pin.
Nothing special, just a 3/4 inch rusty pin.
Here is the end that had the coiled pin in it.
I drove the coiled pin out (what was left of it) so I would know what size hole to drill in my new pivot pin.
Here is the same piece laying at the end of my new pivot pin.
mgwin
Well-known member
Would I have any issues with the new pivot pin if I kept the 100 in the house?
It will mostly be just a show tractor, so I figured there wouldn't be a need to create any "grooves" for the grease to lay in.
I will put a light coating of grease on the pin when I install it.
Harry,
I will look tomorrow and see if I can find the old pin/pins at work.
They may still be in the shop trash can.
It will mostly be just a show tractor, so I figured there wouldn't be a need to create any "grooves" for the grease to lay in.
I will put a light coating of grease on the pin when I install it.
Harry,
I will look tomorrow and see if I can find the old pin/pins at work.
They may still be in the shop trash can.
mgwin
Well-known member
Harry,
Today is your lucky day!
I found the pins.
Notice; no grooves.
I cleaned one up a little so you could see it better.
Also, the hole drilled through each one to help them come out better.
Today is your lucky day!
I found the pins.
Notice; no grooves.
I cleaned one up a little so you could see it better.
Also, the hole drilled through each one to help them come out better.
mhomrighausen
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Marty G. I don't think that you should have any problems since you're 100 will be stored indoors. Maybe coating with a silicone lubricant would also help.
mgwin
Well-known member
A little more progress today.
The plastic is on.
A few items inside.
The plastic is on.
A few items inside.
hydroharry
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Marty - thanks for posting the pics of the RUSTY non-grooved pin. That tractor must have sat and not been greased for a long long time.
As for your 100, if you have a grease zerk on the axle so you can grease the pin annually I'd think it should be ok as well.
As for your 100, if you have a grease zerk on the axle so you can grease the pin annually I'd think it should be ok as well.
