Finally doing a 100!

[mgwin]

Harry,

I removed the pins from two 100's.
One was the one I am restoring, and the other was the donor 100.

I have two more 100's to go, along with two more 70's.
I dread the time when I have to remove those axles!

The only grease fittings on the axle are on each end for the wheel spindle.
You can see this on the two axles in the pic below.

Wonder when they started putting the grease fittings and the grooved pins in the cubs?

I just sold my 122, but I have a 71.
I will have to take a look at it to see if it has a grease fitting in the middle.

 

[mgwin]

Harry,

Curiosity got the best of me, I had to go look.
No grease fitting on the 71 either.

I noticed the pin turned freely, so it is more likely stuck real good too!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Marty G. Try getting some CONKLIN Rust Bomb from a distributor and start spraying it onto the pivot pin. The price in the picture is for a 12 can case. I used it a few years back on an extremely rusted old house jack. I soaked it from a Tuesday after work until Saturday morning. After about five minutes of working the jack screw back and forth with a hammer and bar I had it broke free. The rust turned black and I accidentally got some on my hands. The black gunk had to wear off from my hands. A good cleaning of the jack and it still turns freely.

 

[dschwandt]

This is really strange...
Just for kicks and giggles I checked my original bound copy of parts book TC 113 for all Cubs ser #400,000 and below, issued in '77, and it clearly shows the grooved pin and zerk fitting for the 70, 71 & 100 as well as other models up through the 147. Part #384626-R3.

I'll have to check my 70 & 100 and see what the deal is w/those.
There must be earlier versions of the parts books out there that might shed some light on this issue. Strange indeed!

 

[mgwin]

I am not "setting the woods on fire" like David is, but I am making a little progress.
A few more "small stones."

 

[mhomrighausen]

Marty G. You're making good progress though. Keep it up.

 

[mgonitzke]

If I were you I would mask off the areas of the spindles that end up inside the wheel and axle.

 

[mgwin]

Matt,

I will when I paint them. They just got a little overspray of primer.
I learned to mask them off after I did my first cub! Had to sand the paint back off so I could get the wheel on.

Same goes for the drive shaft and clutch too.

 

[mgwin]

I have a problem of wanting to do more parts than I need.
If you'll notice, I have done two axles, four seat pans, and two head light panels and brackets.
I guess I had better stick to the one 100 in order to get it done this year!

Today's work:

 

[mhomrighausen]

Marty G. Still making progress though.

 

[mgwin]

Finally quit my road trips and got a little more completed on the 100.

After taking the hydraulic lift and components off of the 124, I started doing some more sandblasting and priming.

Even squeezed in a fender before it started raining.

The steering column, driveshaft, and clutch components only got a light coat of primer.

The threaded area on the parts and the inside of the clutch plates did not get any primer, except for a tiny amount of overspray.

These will be assembled before any paint is applied.
The inside of the clutch plates will also be sanded.

I found out while restoring my first cub (128), that painting parts like this first don't work.
You will have to sand it all back off in order to put it together!

 

[mgwin]

Few more pieces today.

 

[lpalma]

Marty,
Painting like they did at the factory I guess.
I did that with my Original, no farting around painting bolts buy hand.

 

[mgwin]

Finally got a chance to do a little more work.

Sandblasted and primed.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Marty G. That's going to be too nice to drive.

 

[mgwin]

Ordered some Case/IH Irongard paint this week.

Got to do some more sandblasting and priming.
Took all day to do these large pieces.

 

[mgwin]

I guess I should give some tips as I progress.

I like to sandblast almost everything down to the bare metal. This gives you a nice smooth surface to start with.
The reason I say almost everything is because some things don't like sandblasting.
Example: Don't sandblast your starter/generator, that wouldn't be a good idea!

I wear disposable rubber/latex gloves through the entire process (blasting, priming, and painting)to keep the oil in my skin from getting on the parts.

Also, be very careful on the tranny. Mask off any holes, seals, or cracks (gear stick). You wouldn't want any media to get inside.

Before priming, blow off the dust with an air hose and wipe the parts off with a tack cloth. This removes the dust so the primer can absorb into the metal.
For the cast iron parts, use a thick, clean stiff brush instead of a tack cloth. The cloth will leave "cloth fuzz" all over the cast iron.

As far as priming, I like to use Rustoleum automotive primer (grey, not red). It goes on good, and you don't have to pull out all the paint equipment.

Give the primer at least 24 hours to cure before sanding off any runs.
Sand all parts before painting to aid in adhesion.

After sanding, use a tack cloth to remove the dust. Now you are ready to paint.
More tips to follow.

 

[tsdeese]

Marty when you sandblast the hood do you have to turn the pressure down I'm just wondering if it would be easy to warp

 

[mgwin]

I run my blaster at around 55 pounds to help keep the media moving out, but it is not a large blaster.
I haven't had any problems with anything warping.

I set the pressure at 45 pounds on my blasting cabinet.

 

[digger]

Holy cow, LOL
I run the cabinet and pot both WOT at 165 pounds/ 25 CFM!
I like to get things done fast.