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Mike, did you mill the counterweight and drill and tap the mounting holes for the balance weight? Any pics? I have a Kohler NOS 16 hp std piston that would work great as long as the Bore, OOR, And Taper are good. Call me if you want to discuss. Cell is 203-400-9220. Kenny
 
Kenny, I've got my test bar in the lathe and have worked on square, gotta have zero before I put the crankshaft in.

Then I'll turn the crank and mount the re-balance kit, This is the part I thought some of the folks here might be interested in seeing pics of the process. I am also planning to setup the flywheel on the rotary table and mark out the degrees on both sides of TDC.

I'll give you a ring and maybe we can set aside some time and make a plan.
 
Let me see if I can post up some pics of installing Mr.Kirks Rebalance Kit.

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First the "patient"..

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And here's the mill I used, a Clausing 8520.

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I wanted a better finish so I reset the crank into the lathe - between centers- and used a dremel with fine stones and set into a home brewed mount.

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Tapping the mounting bolt holes.
 
Part 2

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The plate is mounted but I need to get some threadlocker to finish the install.

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And here's the bare block..

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And my messy bench!

More to come..
 
Thanks for the reply Mike M., as I said it isn't finished, I need to run out and get some red loctite. Also the spec calls for the heads to stand proud by 40 thousandths.. So they will get closer when tightened but still not go flush.
 
Mike F ,when you run the set screws in flush ,i grind a little noach in the head of the out side of the screw ,than use a center punch ,in the face of the crank ,going into the weight locking the screw ,no need for lock tite,thats what i have done a a number of cranks .hope this helps
 
Thanks for the tip David. I'm a big believer in Loctie, but I'll probably stake the screw just the same.

And thanks for the post!
 
Mike - nice to see you're making progress.

Dave - can you do that to my crank? I'm really fearful of those grenade gears in mine. Also, maybe now is a good time to mention your thoughts on the cam shaft, why so many of them are wobbly, and what you do to them.
 
Harry ,any time ,when the weather is better .the weight looks like it came from David Kirk .it looks heavyer than the one i use ,must be for the 16 hp engine
 
David, Harry, yes it is from Mr. Kirk and made for the 16. He just got a new batch in when I ordered mine.

And thanks for the posts.
 
Mike, glad to see you hard at work. Judging from the background shots you're no stranger to restoration work! Also, I love your wooden machinist's toolbox. Keep it up. I'm staying tuned.
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Thanks J.C.! It's good to see you here! Always value your input and look forward to hearing from you again. :cool:

That box is much better than the one Kraig wanted to share... :cool: roflmao..
 
FINALLY! Got some time to get the short block back together. It's been weeks of 14 and 15 hour days at work.. Temps down to nine below.

Today was in the hign to mid fiftys. Made for a great day to be able to get into the shop and get some work done.
 
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Mike Frade (Mfrade) on Sunday, February 28, 2016 - 06:14 pm:

FINALLY! Got some time to get the short block back together. It's been weeks of 14 and 15 hour days at work.. Temps down to nine below.

Today was in the hign to mid fiftys. Made for a great day to be able to get into the shop and get some work done.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

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<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">Mike, I posted the smile face because I was happy that you were able to get into your shop and get some work done.
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</font>
 
I know Kraig.... just being silly! I couldn't help myself!
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Harry, it BETTER run! And darn good too!! I just am not sure when. Too much work, to many projects... and not enough of me to go around.
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I was thinking today of doin' her in a red / white scheme...
 
Mike - now just where are your priorities? The short block is done. I would think everyone on here has priorities that always put Cub Cadets as No. 1
And about that paint scheme - the decals won't look right with red and white. The only thing that really looks right is the original colors. That's my story and I'm sticking to it (except the engine could be black for a really nice contrast, but the air cleaner cover and points cover and breather cover should be Federal Yellar - hey wait a minute - that paint scheme is already spoken for. Well I suppose as long as you don't put NF front wheels on it for a little wider stance you could copy mine).
 

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