Archive through September 11, 2012
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Robert - Welcome to the forum!
Loved your comment " I don't plan to sell it until I'm too feeble to drive it." That's the same way I feel about my "new to me" 982. I'm more inclined to preserve it (rust control and fix what's broken) rather than "restore" if for the foreseeable future. Plan on working it as hard as I can. Do what works for you.
Chris - if you need to give that groundsaw a test run, I have a job for you. I have to trench in a couple power lines. How deep will it go? It looks really cool!
All - does any one have a Haban 60" mower that would be willing to help me out. My 982 came with one, but the PO wasn't honest when I asked if it was all there. I am missing the rear stabilizer assembly. I found the brackets for the tractor frame at Houtz but that's all they had. I've looked through the other sponsors sites with no luck but did order several other missing pieces.
I'd really appreciate several pictures with some scale reference or some dimensions given. I have access to a machine shop and can fabricate one if I have to.
Loved your comment " I don't plan to sell it until I'm too feeble to drive it." That's the same way I feel about my "new to me" 982. I'm more inclined to preserve it (rust control and fix what's broken) rather than "restore" if for the foreseeable future. Plan on working it as hard as I can. Do what works for you.
Chris - if you need to give that groundsaw a test run, I have a job for you. I have to trench in a couple power lines. How deep will it go? It looks really cool!
All - does any one have a Haban 60" mower that would be willing to help me out. My 982 came with one, but the PO wasn't honest when I asked if it was all there. I am missing the rear stabilizer assembly. I found the brackets for the tractor frame at Houtz but that's all they had. I've looked through the other sponsors sites with no luck but did order several other missing pieces.
I'd really appreciate several pictures with some scale reference or some dimensions given. I have access to a machine shop and can fabricate one if I have to.
I have to share this one I was working on my son's 125 putting rear ag tires on it noticed I steel rod hanging under it so I decided to investigate more looked at it more the thing has an IH spring assist under it I never realized it have had the tractor for 4 years and not realized it woooooo hooooooo
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Gerry Ide (Kide)- hey keep scratching your head. You took my comment somewhat out of context. I can't ever say anything in 1 sentence. Here is what I said (it's 5 or 6 sentences):
"That little points pushrod does wear and with the points set at the correct gap your timing will still be off. If you have a timing light use it to set the timing. You might find the points have to be adjusted closer to .025 before you get the timing to 20degrees BTDC. I think the FAQ's may have a static method to set the timing if you don't have a timing light. These Kohler engines will still start and run even with the timing way off and nearly TDC, but you'll burn a hole thru the piston, which is how I got my first 1450."
Here is what I meant: "with the points set at the correct gap (meaning .020 with a gap gauge) your timing will still be off (well maybe off, or could be off, but was always off for me). The main point I was making is setting the points at .020 generally will not give you the correct timing of 20degrees BTDC. I always related this to wear on the little pushrod but I believe even when I replaced the pushrod and set the gap at .020 with my gauge, it would not give me the correct timing of 20degrees BTDC. If I recall correctly I believe I always had to increase my gap to get the timing exact (maybe my gap gauge was worn or I just don't measure my gap very well). I don't know scientifically if wear on the little pushrod would go this or not. I realize it may not make sense - but what does make sense is that everyones .020 gap measurement with a gap gauge may not be exactly the same. I think Matt or someone else confirmed before that a point gap of .020 will hardly ever give you the correct 20degrees BTDC timing.
I'm actually not that convinced that the static method for setting the timing gives you the correct timing either but I'm certain it's better than a gap gauge on the points. I may be old fashioned but I like using a timing light and seeing the S or SP timing mark hit the line exactly when my timing light flashes. I don't think there is any better timing method than having the engine running and seeing exactly when it sparks. (Now I suppose someone is going to tell me the marks on the flywheel can be off and if this is the case then I suppose you have to pull the head and make sure the piston is exactly TDC when you see the T mark on the flywheel thru the site hole - does make me wonder how much tollerance Kohler allowed for with their casting and markings).
My overall point was that setting the gap on the points will hardly if ever give you the correct timing - it gives you a good starting point and the engine will generally start, but it's absolutely best to use a timing light and adjust the point gap until you get your timing exactly 20degrees BTDC.
Chris R - Woooo Hooo to you. Now, I was just talking about adjusting things so I have a recommendation for you. Since you found the spring assist I would suggest you initially set the spring tension to the point where it feels good for what ever you may be lifting - then for each year older the tractor gets I would tighten the adjusting bolt 1/4 turn. This will return the spring tension to where it was the year before. Then when ever you use the tractor it will seem to require the same lifting strength as it always did (and will have nothing to do with you or your muscles getting a year older).
Nice find.
"That little points pushrod does wear and with the points set at the correct gap your timing will still be off. If you have a timing light use it to set the timing. You might find the points have to be adjusted closer to .025 before you get the timing to 20degrees BTDC. I think the FAQ's may have a static method to set the timing if you don't have a timing light. These Kohler engines will still start and run even with the timing way off and nearly TDC, but you'll burn a hole thru the piston, which is how I got my first 1450."
Here is what I meant: "with the points set at the correct gap (meaning .020 with a gap gauge) your timing will still be off (well maybe off, or could be off, but was always off for me). The main point I was making is setting the points at .020 generally will not give you the correct timing of 20degrees BTDC. I always related this to wear on the little pushrod but I believe even when I replaced the pushrod and set the gap at .020 with my gauge, it would not give me the correct timing of 20degrees BTDC. If I recall correctly I believe I always had to increase my gap to get the timing exact (maybe my gap gauge was worn or I just don't measure my gap very well). I don't know scientifically if wear on the little pushrod would go this or not. I realize it may not make sense - but what does make sense is that everyones .020 gap measurement with a gap gauge may not be exactly the same. I think Matt or someone else confirmed before that a point gap of .020 will hardly ever give you the correct 20degrees BTDC timing.
I'm actually not that convinced that the static method for setting the timing gives you the correct timing either but I'm certain it's better than a gap gauge on the points. I may be old fashioned but I like using a timing light and seeing the S or SP timing mark hit the line exactly when my timing light flashes. I don't think there is any better timing method than having the engine running and seeing exactly when it sparks. (Now I suppose someone is going to tell me the marks on the flywheel can be off and if this is the case then I suppose you have to pull the head and make sure the piston is exactly TDC when you see the T mark on the flywheel thru the site hole - does make me wonder how much tollerance Kohler allowed for with their casting and markings).
My overall point was that setting the gap on the points will hardly if ever give you the correct timing - it gives you a good starting point and the engine will generally start, but it's absolutely best to use a timing light and adjust the point gap until you get your timing exactly 20degrees BTDC.
Chris R - Woooo Hooo to you. Now, I was just talking about adjusting things so I have a recommendation for you. Since you found the spring assist I would suggest you initially set the spring tension to the point where it feels good for what ever you may be lifting - then for each year older the tractor gets I would tighten the adjusting bolt 1/4 turn. This will return the spring tension to where it was the year before. Then when ever you use the tractor it will seem to require the same lifting strength as it always did (and will have nothing to do with you or your muscles getting a year older).
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Harry-
Why would the static method not work? It does exactly the same thing as the timing light does, without the engine running.
Why would the static method not work? It does exactly the same thing as the timing light does, without the engine running.
I think the points gap doesn't really matter as long as they stay open the right amount of crankshaft rotation. I use static timeing but i think the dwell angle is the perfect way to set points.My 169 is in time when the point gap is at 16(with new point push rod). My #2 100 is in time when the points are at 24. G M used to have points that was set by dwell angle and they rarely ended up at .016 when the dwell was at spec. Does anyone know if you can use a dwell meter for 4,6, or 8 cylinder engine on a one cylinder engine and what the dwell should be? I have been away from tune up work to long to remember details.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Frank,
Yes, your right, I should get used to the correct terminology. I have a hammer, screwdriver, and a "multimeter"!
Don, Allen,
Thank you! I was hoping I didn't have to make ANOTHER order with Charlie so soon. Gee Whizz...just bought him a steak dinner with the amount I just spent in parts! Allen, that is definately the basic way of testing it put into plain english! I think even I couldnt' screw that up. Will see what I come up with as a reading once I get it started.
Yes, your right, I should get used to the correct terminology. I have a hammer, screwdriver, and a "multimeter"!
Don, Allen,
Thank you! I was hoping I didn't have to make ANOTHER order with Charlie so soon. Gee Whizz...just bought him a steak dinner with the amount I just spent in parts! Allen, that is definately the basic way of testing it put into plain english! I think even I couldnt' screw that up. Will see what I come up with as a reading once I get it started.
Mike Patterson
Yes Charlie does like steak and orders let him get more deals at those great yard sales . I have another name for a hammer (multi angle swing press ) lol. I like to say that when I have help and ask for a hammer to be passed.
Yes Charlie does like steak and orders let him get more deals at those great yard sales . I have another name for a hammer (multi angle swing press ) lol. I like to say that when I have help and ask for a hammer to be passed.
kide
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- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Harry - I've often been accused of telling how to build a clock when asked what time it is.. you may be my long lost brother....
Luther - Dwell angle refers to the time that the points are closed, not open. This is when the the coil saturates and that's what you measure with the dwell meter. A single cylinder engine closes the points only once per revolution ( wasted spark)if a crank mounted cam or once very two revolutions if off the camshaft, in either case much more dwell time than needed to saturate the coil before the points reopen. While dwell and timing are related through both being affected by when the points open, setting timing by measuring dwell is about the same as setting timing by gapping the points. I agree with Matt and Harry - timing light or static timing.. If you want to get really accurate, you find a degree wheel and use the static method to mark the flywheel and then use a timing light with the engine running to actually check it. ( note this all applies to point and coil, not magneto setups).
Dennis - I've still got a Mallory Dual point for a late (8BA) Ford Flatty, with the original "door knob" condensers on the double transformer style coil.. When I checked 'em a few years ago, they were still good...
Frank - I've got VOMs, a couple of old Simpson 260s, my dad's Heathkit VTVM, several DVOMs (including some that measure RMS AC), but when using them for work I call 'em by their use. Multimeter sounds like what the kid just out of Devry Tech might call 'em
JMHO Only 
Luther - Dwell angle refers to the time that the points are closed, not open. This is when the the coil saturates and that's what you measure with the dwell meter. A single cylinder engine closes the points only once per revolution ( wasted spark)if a crank mounted cam or once very two revolutions if off the camshaft, in either case much more dwell time than needed to saturate the coil before the points reopen. While dwell and timing are related through both being affected by when the points open, setting timing by measuring dwell is about the same as setting timing by gapping the points. I agree with Matt and Harry - timing light or static timing.. If you want to get really accurate, you find a degree wheel and use the static method to mark the flywheel and then use a timing light with the engine running to actually check it. ( note this all applies to point and coil, not magneto setups).
Dennis - I've still got a Mallory Dual point for a late (8BA) Ford Flatty, with the original "door knob" condensers on the double transformer style coil.. When I checked 'em a few years ago, they were still good...
Frank - I've got VOMs, a couple of old Simpson 260s, my dad's Heathkit VTVM, several DVOMs (including some that measure RMS AC), but when using them for work I call 'em by their use. Multimeter sounds like what the kid just out of Devry Tech might call 'em
mfrade
Well-known member
""She came back to visit today - another blown gasket. Maybe now her owner will believe me that mowing needs to be done at WOT? ""
Frank, I believe you should have added, In my opinion, to the above sentence.
In my experience, and using an infrared camera, WOT makes the engine hotter not cooler. More RPM's equals more heat. Yes, I know you're going to say it also equals more airflow... and I won't debate you on it.. Just tossin' in my 2 cents and my opinion. OH, I've never run mine WOT (unless I had to!) and have never spoiled a head gasket!
Frank, I believe you should have added, In my opinion, to the above sentence.
In my experience, and using an infrared camera, WOT makes the engine hotter not cooler. More RPM's equals more heat. Yes, I know you're going to say it also equals more airflow... and I won't debate you on it.. Just tossin' in my 2 cents and my opinion. OH, I've never run mine WOT (unless I had to!) and have never spoiled a head gasket!
MIKE - To throw a litte Premium No-lead gas laced with 108 octane leaded race gas onto the fire..... I agree 100% with you.
Back when my old Tiny-Tach still worked I used to mow around 2400-2600 RPM with the 129, and about the same RPM according to my ear with the 72. Never blew a head gasket on either one over many many years.
Back when the old #70 out in the shop was newer, around 1970, I could R&R the head gasket in the rebuilt K161 in about an hour with hand tools because I had so much practice. The head was warped, but there was NOTHING flat enough to dress the head, not even a large enough piece of glass that was flat enough, all the window panes in the old barn windows were so distorted you could tell they weren't flat. That engine had been run really hard, WFO for several hours mowing two large farm yards every week. After the engine was rebuilt the second time it got better, then was replaced with a K181 replacement engine and the problem disappeared entirely.
I always found it best to run engines right around their torque peak unless you need full HP to do the job.
Back when my old Tiny-Tach still worked I used to mow around 2400-2600 RPM with the 129, and about the same RPM according to my ear with the 72. Never blew a head gasket on either one over many many years.
Back when the old #70 out in the shop was newer, around 1970, I could R&R the head gasket in the rebuilt K161 in about an hour with hand tools because I had so much practice. The head was warped, but there was NOTHING flat enough to dress the head, not even a large enough piece of glass that was flat enough, all the window panes in the old barn windows were so distorted you could tell they weren't flat. That engine had been run really hard, WFO for several hours mowing two large farm yards every week. After the engine was rebuilt the second time it got better, then was replaced with a K181 replacement engine and the problem disappeared entirely.
I always found it best to run engines right around their torque peak unless you need full HP to do the job.
Gerry you are right and thank you for the refresher course.My bad.Since you can set the points with the engine running i think this may be a way to accurately set the points when finding the timeing mark is a problem. I have not hooked a dwell meter to a one cylinder engine. I think you would multiply the reading on a four cylinder scale by four. Thanks.
Gerry,
I don't know, I used a PSM-6 Multimeter for a whole lot of years in the Air Force and Air National Guard to measure Ohms, DC voltage, or lack there of, during maintenance and before loading electrical fired explosive devices on aircraft, and I never attended Devry Tech. A multimeter is just that, it has multi uses and mesurement scales, and "iffen" it's good enough for the Air Force, it's good enough for me.
Wish I had one now rather than the ones I have.
I don't know, I used a PSM-6 Multimeter for a whole lot of years in the Air Force and Air National Guard to measure Ohms, DC voltage, or lack there of, during maintenance and before loading electrical fired explosive devices on aircraft, and I never attended Devry Tech. A multimeter is just that, it has multi uses and mesurement scales, and "iffen" it's good enough for the Air Force, it's good enough for me.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Paul:
(OT) Try PSM6.com.. Didn't mean to impugn Devry or the Air Force/National Guard. In 50+ years of involvement in electronics and working closely with both mainframe field engineers and radio techs, I've never heard anyone say "I'm a gonna go get the multi-meter and check that power supply" or something similar. If it's volts, it's a voltmeter, if it's continuity or resistance it's an ohmmeter, if checking current draw, it's an ammeter that I'm agonna go get... Maybe it's the difference in casual training and the requirements for precise communications (and thus very rigid nomenclature)drilled into armed forces techs who may be working at any time with folks they've never known before... Anyway, I've gotta go check a light bulb to see if it's bad - gonna go grab a ohmmeter.
(OT) Try PSM6.com.. Didn't mean to impugn Devry or the Air Force/National Guard. In 50+ years of involvement in electronics and working closely with both mainframe field engineers and radio techs, I've never heard anyone say "I'm a gonna go get the multi-meter and check that power supply" or something similar. If it's volts, it's a voltmeter, if it's continuity or resistance it's an ohmmeter, if checking current draw, it's an ammeter that I'm agonna go get... Maybe it's the difference in casual training and the requirements for precise communications (and thus very rigid nomenclature)drilled into armed forces techs who may be working at any time with folks they've never known before... Anyway, I've gotta go check a light bulb to see if it's bad - gonna go grab a ohmmeter.
Working nights I'm not always sharpest this time of day, so correct me if I'M WRONG. And reading the post today I'm sure it will happen.
(Jeremiah are you off line today)
Weather the point gap is .20 something / Or the timing it what? / Or you used what tool/ Or the What is What?
My question is where did it run best at the speed you were going for.
My adjustment are does it make me happy at what I'm doing that day? I do not do Pull days or hot rod my Cub, but if I did..................
I'll get back to you.
Most days before I go to bed I always like to check out this page. Like PlayBoy I look at the pictures first.
Night guys
Bill
(Jeremiah are you off line today)
Weather the point gap is .20 something / Or the timing it what? / Or you used what tool/ Or the What is What?
My question is where did it run best at the speed you were going for.
My adjustment are does it make me happy at what I'm doing that day? I do not do Pull days or hot rod my Cub, but if I did..................
I'll get back to you.
Most days before I go to bed I always like to check out this page. Like PlayBoy I look at the pictures first.
Night guys
Bill
Bill, here's one, granted it's a Puller.
lpalma
Well-known member
Never seen a pink one in person.
Ryan,You lucky dog...
Frank C,Did you use new head bolts?
There was some mention a few days ago about a # 4 cart.
Ryan,You lucky dog...
Frank C,Did you use new head bolts?
There was some mention a few days ago about a # 4 cart.
Lewis Palma
That is a sweet looking trailer, looks all-most original paint. think the wheels might have been painted ???
I doughy frank used new head bolts ! but I bet he will be back to defend himself.I don`t have a Cub to mow with and never run them at wot most of the time.I do sometimes and that depends on what I`am doing. The 129 never see WOT when moving into a pile of stone. It would bury itself to fast even with the 165 lbs on each rear wheel.I run at about 1/2 t for most things.
That is a sweet looking trailer, looks all-most original paint. think the wheels might have been painted ???
I doughy frank used new head bolts ! but I bet he will be back to defend himself.I don`t have a Cub to mow with and never run them at wot most of the time.I do sometimes and that depends on what I`am doing. The 129 never see WOT when moving into a pile of stone. It would bury itself to fast even with the 165 lbs on each rear wheel.I run at about 1/2 t for most things.
