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Archive through October 30, 2008
- Thread starter bjrainey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
rchristensen
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- Aug 12, 2006
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- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Brad I don't remember ever seeing the bolts pull through the couplers, especially when they are relatively new. Normally over time they will rotate like this one:
After they rotate and get weaker they will eventually get out of balance and go bad.
Since yours are pulling out at the bolt holes there must be a problem with the distance from the hydro to the engine. This could be caused by something put together wrong, the wrong shaft, or your engine is moving due to bad motor mounts.
I have seen different combinations on the configuration of the drive shafts on Quietlines depending on the year of the manufacture.
Some of the early Quietlines had a steel ball inside the rear coupler and the drive shaft had a indentation in the shaft that went against the steel ball to center it.
Some Quietlines had 1 rear coupler and 1 front coupler, while others had 2 rear couplers and 1 front coupler. My 782 has 2 rear couplers and 2 front couplers and I have modified some of my Quiet lines to that configuration.
Here is a Quietline with 2 couplers on the front:
Here is the same Quietline with 2 rear couplers:
Here is a picture of some different length drive shafts and different couplers.
The couplers with the large hole in the center are for Quietlines and the ones with the smaller hole in the center are for the older 1xx series cubs.
Whenever you use two couplers you have to use the Quietline one for clearance and then you can back that up with one of the older series couplers which due to the smaller hole are much stronger which is a big help if you are going to use you Cub with ground engaging equipment.
When you convert a Quietline to the double couplers both front and rear you need to build a new drive shaft.
After they rotate and get weaker they will eventually get out of balance and go bad.
Since yours are pulling out at the bolt holes there must be a problem with the distance from the hydro to the engine. This could be caused by something put together wrong, the wrong shaft, or your engine is moving due to bad motor mounts.
I have seen different combinations on the configuration of the drive shafts on Quietlines depending on the year of the manufacture.
Some of the early Quietlines had a steel ball inside the rear coupler and the drive shaft had a indentation in the shaft that went against the steel ball to center it.
Some Quietlines had 1 rear coupler and 1 front coupler, while others had 2 rear couplers and 1 front coupler. My 782 has 2 rear couplers and 2 front couplers and I have modified some of my Quiet lines to that configuration.
Here is a Quietline with 2 couplers on the front:
Here is the same Quietline with 2 rear couplers:
Here is a picture of some different length drive shafts and different couplers.
The couplers with the large hole in the center are for Quietlines and the ones with the smaller hole in the center are for the older 1xx series cubs.
Whenever you use two couplers you have to use the Quietline one for clearance and then you can back that up with one of the older series couplers which due to the smaller hole are much stronger which is a big help if you are going to use you Cub with ground engaging equipment.
When you convert a Quietline to the double couplers both front and rear you need to build a new drive shaft.
Richard,
Isuspect that given the condition of my iso-mounts the problem may be in that the motor has shifted slightly and putting a strain on the couplers.
In one of your previous posts (the one that's going to be a FAQ on quietlines) you said that you would replace the front and rear bushings more times than not. Where are these bushings at? I pulled the rear most coupler off the short shaft coming out of the hydro, but didn't see any bushing there.
Isuspect that given the condition of my iso-mounts the problem may be in that the motor has shifted slightly and putting a strain on the couplers.
In one of your previous posts (the one that's going to be a FAQ on quietlines) you said that you would replace the front and rear bushings more times than not. Where are these bushings at? I pulled the rear most coupler off the short shaft coming out of the hydro, but didn't see any bushing there.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Brad The couplers have to be in good condition and the drive shaft has to be straight.
Here is the front coupler:
The center bushing should be good and the drive shaft should just fit in the bushing with no slop. Sometimes the end of the shaft will get worn and will not fit snugly and this will cause the shaft to wobble and will destroy the rubber coupler.
Here is the rear end and the coupler just off the hydro charge pump has a bushing also and on some early ones they had a steel ball inside. The drive shaft has to fit snugly here too.
The front bushings are not replaceable, you need to replace the entire coupler. I think you can get the rear bushings, not sure it has been awhile since I replaced one.
Here is the front coupler:
The center bushing should be good and the drive shaft should just fit in the bushing with no slop. Sometimes the end of the shaft will get worn and will not fit snugly and this will cause the shaft to wobble and will destroy the rubber coupler.
Here is the rear end and the coupler just off the hydro charge pump has a bushing also and on some early ones they had a steel ball inside. The drive shaft has to fit snugly here too.
The front bushings are not replaceable, you need to replace the entire coupler. I think you can get the rear bushings, not sure it has been awhile since I replaced one.
Brad I have found that you need to be sure the engine is aligned correctly, Also use the rubber coupler with the small hole and don't overtighten the four bolts. hey have nyloc nuts so just tighten enough to set the washer flush into the rubber. Just my 02c
I see you guys have some gear drive shifter problems. On our pulling transmissions we use this solid steel item to put on the shifter lever in place of the welded thin metal ring. Of course we prefer our two lever shifter over that even.
Aaron thanks I like the term "American Ingenuity" sounds better than my wifes "Poor Dumb B@$t@rd Design".
Jeff they weighed 25-26 pounds each with the bathroom scale. they could be filled more to add weight but would extend out farther and block access to the valve stem.
Michael yep the old girl is doing fine and coming along. She still needs a little make up and some more jewelry to be the blizzard buster I envision her to be. Thanks Again
Jeff they weighed 25-26 pounds each with the bathroom scale. they could be filled more to add weight but would extend out farther and block access to the valve stem.
Michael yep the old girl is doing fine and coming along. She still needs a little make up and some more jewelry to be the blizzard buster I envision her to be. Thanks Again
Richard and Luther,
Thanks for the info and pics.
I know for sure that the motor isn't where it is suppose to be, you can see that it is not sitting straight in the frame.
As for the bushings and Drive shaft, I guess who ever had this tractor before never replaced the rear bushing cause it's not there, and the ends of the drive shaft are worn slightly also the front coupler bearing needs to be replaced due to slop.
Seems that I'm going to get real acquainted with my CC dealer and Forum sponsors for this project... Iso mounts, bushings, drive shaft, and couplers, Then I need brakes, a new muffler, wheel bearings and steering ugrades and other stuff to along with all that.
think I know now how this thing can really draw you in... I think I'm addicted to Cub Cadets.
Thanks for the info and pics.
I know for sure that the motor isn't where it is suppose to be, you can see that it is not sitting straight in the frame.
As for the bushings and Drive shaft, I guess who ever had this tractor before never replaced the rear bushing cause it's not there, and the ends of the drive shaft are worn slightly also the front coupler bearing needs to be replaced due to slop.
Seems that I'm going to get real acquainted with my CC dealer and Forum sponsors for this project... Iso mounts, bushings, drive shaft, and couplers, Then I need brakes, a new muffler, wheel bearings and steering ugrades and other stuff to along with all that.
think I know now how this thing can really draw you in... I think I'm addicted to Cub Cadets.
Richard, yep, that looks better.
Tim, very clever idea! I'll second what Scott wrote. Good job on the photos and write up of the process too! I like photos.
Nick, your Original is coming along nicely.
Tim, very clever idea! I'll second what Scott wrote. Good job on the photos and write up of the process too! I like photos.
Nick, your Original is coming along nicely.
EVAN - You Pulling guys have just TOO much time on Your hands! Explain Your 2-lever shifting a bit more. Does each lever control a shifting rail inside the transmission top cover? Almost looks like a LENCO!
And I'm sure Kraig want's more pic's of Your "582 Mini-MX" because I know I sure do. Workmanship looks GREAT!
RICHARD - Never having had a Q/L with rubber-mounted engine a lot of the issues with them I have never encountered. But I sure admire Your experience and detailed photo explainations of them. Those little 1-Lunger Kohlers sure can raise havoc with the otherwise durable drivetrains in the Hydro tractors.
And I'm sure Kraig want's more pic's of Your "582 Mini-MX" because I know I sure do. Workmanship looks GREAT!
RICHARD - Never having had a Q/L with rubber-mounted engine a lot of the issues with them I have never encountered. But I sure admire Your experience and detailed photo explainations of them. Those little 1-Lunger Kohlers sure can raise havoc with the otherwise durable drivetrains in the Hydro tractors.
Evan, what Denny wrote.
Evan W.
And just what part of that pre 1981 582 is still on that machine?
And just what part of that pre 1981 582 is still on that machine?
I bet there's at least one original nut or bolt somewhere left on it.
Nice, VERY nice!
