Archive through October 19, 2006

[enei]

Greetings!

I don't have a pressure washer and my tractor needs a good cleaning, especially the underside after the hydro blow I had a while back. I'm thinking about taking the side, tunnel and under panels off and taking it to a local do-it-yourself car wash and using the engine degreaser option and industrial power washer. Any concerns with this I should be aware of?

 

[digger]

Eric,
Only one concern I can think of. Don't drive it to the carwash unless you want to walk home!

 

[enei]

Charlie,

Is this a fun way of saying, "Don't do it. Your tractor won't run afterward."

 

[jluckey]

Steve and "Big" Steve:

You made the responsible decision. There are only a select few of use that have been in that position, and I tell you, it is not a fun one to make. If you guys remember, it was snowing the Friday afternoon before Plow Day v3. Keith and I pulled an elevator home from the plow day sight back to my parents house in a blizzard, I thought to myself, "what the Hell did I decide". For those of you there during v3, it was a beautiful day, but dang if we did not get lucky.

Now that v12 is going to be on the rain date, my schedule is free to come, but I just don't know yet.

Jon

 

[pscilipote]

Thanks in advance for the advice on this.
Have a CC 122. New and adjusted clutch, but still likes to give me grief shifting from 1st to reverse and vice versa. Often have to release the clutch for a bit of a turn on the shaft before she'll engage.
Any suggestions on solving this issue?

thanks
Peter

 

[digger]

Peter S.
Bent shift fork maybe?
Or your clutch engaging arm or mounting bracket could be bent or broken.
If ya had a hydro, you wouldn't have that nagging problem!

 

[dfrisk]

PETER - The way You describe the situation You have the gear teeth butting up against the sides of the meshing gear tooth. Short of doing what You're doing, engaging the clutch again and hopefully have the gears stop in a postion where they can fully engage there really isn't a "FIX" for that situation. My Son had the same problem with My 72 when He was about 6-7 yrs old so I followed Charlie's advise and bought Him a 129 HYDRO. You could re-round the engaging sides of the gears, or replace them with a better used set of gears also.
IH "ROUNDED" the engaging sides of the gear teeth to help reduce this problem but in decades of gear grinding the points wear off the gears and this is the problem We end up with. The department I used to be a Production Scheduler of at FARMALL had two HURTH gear rounding machines that did the rounding of the gear teeth.

 

[dmerkle]

Here is what happens when you plow in the mud.

 

[jwalker]

Okay people needs some opinions(that's scary)posted a while back that I had a K161 on a Original turns out it had a busted conecting rod (5 pieces no less) Spoke with some people in town and was recommended to a guy that builds engines (tractor,cart racing ect. 60's nice guy)he checked it and said to bore it turn the crank and button it back up(new gaskets,piston,rod and reseat valves) I was looking at about 500 bucks. I'd like to keep it original but I don't want to waste money. Good deal or bad?
Thanks Guys, Joe

 

[ehall]

I really need some kohler engine help.

I am trying to remove the front PTO so I can finish engine dissasembly prior to rebuild. The 3 outer set screws came out ok but all 3 inner ones have spit apart the top half came out with the allen wrench and one not so "easy out". The remaing halfs are still in the holes keeping the PTO pulley from comming off. I tried drilling them with first a regular steel bit, you know how long that lasted. Then I used a square easy out hammered into the remaing pieces. That did not work either. Is it possiable to remove the entire unit in one piece or do I need to remove the pto pulley to get to a hidden bolt? Any other suggestions?