• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through October 09, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Jim & Wes,

I was checking this as you were posting. It appears when I adjusted the valve lash it was not on the compression stroke. This made it far enough off that the ACR was not working. Rookie mistake. Thanks for the help.

Jim
 
<u><font color="0000ff"><font face="courier new,courier"><font size="-2">Does Anybody know the correct numbers for the headlights on a 149??
fence.gif
</font></font></font></u>
 
Glen, this is from the Operator's Manual for the 149.

42790.jpg
 
Kraig and others: thanks for info on the 2 stage snowblowers. I have a single stage that works good in dry snow but not good in wet snow. I spose nothing works in wet snow sept a blade.
Kraig, wonder if that guy got a patent on that post driver?
 
Roger, glad to help.Hmmm, my single stage snow thrower works great in wet snow. Click HERE.
happy.gif


I doubt it's patentable, the basic design has been around for centuries, though it's for drilling wells not driving fence posts. I figured it might be adaptable to driving fence posts.
 
Glen, Fleet Farm in my area has them for about $8.00. I believe they might even be available for $3.99. I picked some up a month or two ago to have as spares. There are two versions, both were on the shelf the price was I believe $7.99 but one of the P/Ns wasn't on the price label so I grabbed that part it was the $3.99 part. I think one is considered a flood light the other is a spot light. Someone here posted a "heads up" to this info, I forget who it was. I'll check tonight and post the two P/Ns tomorrow.
 
My 149 has the wide front wheels and tires, but I want to put the "Triple Rib" tires on the front to nicely accent the new Carlisle AG's on the rear... What sise wheels and tires do I use???
screwloose.gif
 
KRAIG - Yep, Mostly green stuff in His dump....And He's employed by that company.... Only green farm equipment He has was made in the Quad-Cities.... His planter & combine... He does have a 317.... I think it has the early Stage I Kohler that's blowing up on him for the second time.....I think it's getting repowered with a Honda..... He's using His 5020 Allis to mow with now....Cute little tractor!
 
My old neighbor called to say that he managed to break the front axle on his 149 in two. I'm not sure where the break is but he was wondering if it could be welded or does he need a new one? I told him he might be better off with a new (used) one. Any thoughts?
 
I am new to the forum. I want to repaint my front rims. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove the bearings?
 
Put the rebuilt front PTO back on. Should you be able to turn it without the crankshaft moving. I don't want to ruin a fiber button if I don't have too.
Thanks Joe
 
Will try to post more often! Anyone going to be at Cole Camp MO. this weekend??? One of the last steam shows of the season. Have been to all the shows I could get to this season and have not ran into any names I remember.
Nice to talk last night Charlie----good luck!
 
Jim E.,

We purchased a few devices just to see up close what these crooks were claiming, but most all were so rediculous that it wasn't worth wasting time, fuel, and valuable test equipment to run them. They did provide good lab entertainment though (lots of laughs generated). Things like fuel line magnets, air filters with magic elements, inlet vortex generators, etc, showed twisted cleverness at the expense of the unwary.

The only device that was partially legitimate was an inlet water injection system. However, water injection only supresses detonation. The way to get better mileage would be to raise compression (by milling the head) then injecting water to control knock. The manufacturer of the system never stated that it was increased compression ratio that improves economy, not the addition of water.
 
Kraig:
Ref the long suffering 129 hooked to the "cable tool rig" (Geez, I didn't know that's what I'd built}... I was looking for my original pics on that just last week - I think I originally posted them back around 2000...
Roger: It works great for putting well pipe in the ground, but it's not really all that "mobile" and it defintely doesn't pull 'em out.

BTW - I was saddened to learn last week of the loss of another of the old line IHC/Cub Cadet dealers... Seven Islands Lawn and Garden in Grand Ledge, MI, originally Garlock's Implement Sales, had been in business in various locations since I was a kid in the '50s ( I delivered Garlocks their newspaper to the business back then), the new owners had had the business since some time in the 80's. It was the only place I'd bought Cub parts since getting the 129 back in '85. Todd Carter from the forum here, sez that all the spare parts went back...The real loss though is the owners, who were really great people - he was a walking parts catalog... and his wife always had time to listen to another story about how great the old Cubs are...... whatabummer !!
thumbdown.gif
 
Will the head from a 10hp Kohler(out of a 102) work on a 12hp Kohler(from a 123)?

I belive I blew the head gasket in my 123, and looking at the head it looks warped.
I have not yet removed the head from the 123 yet as the motor still runs, it just appears to have a warped head and blown head gasket, as there is sign of oil from the area where the head and block meet, and the fins on the head are warped.
 
Lonny take a smooth bastard file and file over the head you will see the low spots usually by the exhaust valve.File it till the low spot goes away and then use a bench stone and lite oil to lap it in.BTDT.
 
Roger:

I can't help with the driving in of fence posts, but for taking them out, I think I found a good answer. I bought a fence post jack at Tractor Supply several years ago that works great. This thing requires hardly any effort at all. It cost, as I remember, about $25-$30.

Steve H.
 
Get a thick, (1") piece of glass, some 360 grit wet or dry paper & WD-40. lay the paper on top of the glass, spray on the WD-40 & sand the head in a figure 8. Keep the paper wet.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top