OK guys and gals,
I'm headin north for a few days.
Remember, Play nice and have fun.
I'm headin north for a few days.
Remember, Play nice and have fun.
-
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Archive through October 09, 2006
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Charlie, will you be passing through my neck of the woods? If so stop by and say hello! I think you have my work and home number. Have a safe trip!!!!
Hey guys I need some help. I just rebuilt a K301 for my 125. Honed the block, new piston, rod etc. I followed the manual, checked all the clearances and think I have it all together correctly. When I put it in the starter wont turn the engine over fast enough to get it going.
If I take the plug out it turns over nice and smooth but once the plug is back in the starter cant get it through the compression stroke.
I know the starter, battery is good because I have been using this tractor all summer with another motor. In fact I just cut the grass yesterday and changed the motor last night.
Any thoughts before I take it back out and apart?
Thanks,
Jim
If I take the plug out it turns over nice and smooth but once the plug is back in the starter cant get it through the compression stroke.
I know the starter, battery is good because I have been using this tractor all summer with another motor. In fact I just cut the grass yesterday and changed the motor last night.
Any thoughts before I take it back out and apart?
Thanks,
Jim
Jim, make sure your electrical connections are good, especially the ground. With an engine that is well used and loose it might be OK but a fresh rebuild will be tighter can make a difference. One thing to remember is that the ends of the wires can look good but deep inside the insulation they can be corroded. The wire behaves like a wick and moisture can get deep into the wire. The ends dry out quickly but the moisture stays longer inside the wire and over many years can go bad. They will still carry some electrical current just not enough. I'll let the engine experts comment on the rebuild and what if anything might be wrong there.
KRAIG - I've heard of the skirts breaking off pistons on the in-line 6-cyl gasoline engines in 460, 560, & 660's but I've never heard of a piston breaking at the oil ring like that one in Your 125....
ALSO.... last summer My 982 died right after I started mowing one time....and the ignition points were covered with oil from the blowby...You said You had the same problem with the ONAN in Your Allis..... well I mowed Thursday and I could tell when I shut the 982 down the points are getting dirty/oily again....And I bet I've only put 30 hours on it. What a terrible design compared to the Kohler!
ALSO.... last summer My 982 died right after I started mowing one time....and the ignition points were covered with oil from the blowby...You said You had the same problem with the ONAN in Your Allis..... well I mowed Thursday and I could tell when I shut the 982 down the points are getting dirty/oily again....And I bet I've only put 30 hours on it. What a terrible design compared to the Kohler!
Denny, wow you got 30 hours on your Onan before the points got oil covered, you're doing good, I'm lucky to get 10 hours on the Onan in my Allis before I have to clean the points!
That was a good article on the MMO great information. Started working on the 10 horse of my 1000, sanding all those body parts to paint I needed a distraction so its motor time!
Question is: After viewing the head (off) and the top of the motor plenty of carbon which I think was caused by the Carb not being right but what I have read so far other elements also involved, what is the hottest plug you guys have ran and possible part number??
This place is great sooo much knowledge and love the pictures!
Thank you
Pops
Question is: After viewing the head (off) and the top of the motor plenty of carbon which I think was caused by the Carb not being right but what I have read so far other elements also involved, what is the hottest plug you guys have ran and possible part number??
This place is great sooo much knowledge and love the pictures!
Thank you
Pops
Kraig,
That was my first thought also. I did clean the connections and checked from the negative side of the battery to the ground wire bolted to the block. No resistance. Also checked ok to the block and to the starter. Any other places I should look at?
Thanks,
Jim
That was my first thought also. I did clean the connections and checked from the negative side of the battery to the ground wire bolted to the block. No resistance. Also checked ok to the block and to the starter. Any other places I should look at?
Thanks,
Jim
Jim, just for grins if you have a new wire that is heavy enough, replace the ground wire. It might measure 0 ohms with only a few strands still connected but it won't carry much current. As I wrote before I'll leave the engine comments to those that know more.
rbedell
Well-known member
Jim M:
Kraig is right on. I would add something that I do personally. I use 6AWG Cables or bigger and I run an extra cable from the frame to the motor block as an added measure. See attached drawing. This was drawn up for a Wide Frame with a Kohler Twin but the principle is the same.
Kraig is right on. I would add something that I do personally. I use 6AWG Cables or bigger and I run an extra cable from the frame to the motor block as an added measure. See attached drawing. This was drawn up for a Wide Frame with a Kohler Twin but the principle is the same.
KRAIG - So Our ONAN problems get that much worse huh?
I guess I'll tell My Buddy who's been saving His old 18 HP ONAN for Me to rebuild for the 982 to throw it in the ditch with all His other junk....There's a JD #55 combine in there....the engine from this JD 318 belongs there too.
Denny, well, part of the problem with my Onan is that it has an oil leak where the oil filter bracket/passage mounts to the block and oil blows all over the place. I have a new gasket for it but have not had the time to remove the loader, remove the fuel tank and other parts to pull the engine to replace the gasket. BTW, I'd say the ENTIRE JD 318 chassis belongs in the ditch, but keep the Onan!
I have 2 questions for the experts:
Was there a two stage snow blower made to fit on the wide frame Cubs? If so, what was the model number?
Also, has anyone come up with a great way to pound or dig steel fence posts And extract them using a 149 or 1650? Out here on the windy plains of Nebraska its about time to put snow fence up. I am 63 with arthritis in my hands and its getting harder to pound those steel posts into clay soil.
Was there a two stage snow blower made to fit on the wide frame Cubs? If so, what was the model number?
Also, has anyone come up with a great way to pound or dig steel fence posts And extract them using a 149 or 1650? Out here on the windy plains of Nebraska its about time to put snow fence up. I am 63 with arthritis in my hands and its getting harder to pound those steel posts into clay soil.
Roger, I believe there was a 2 stage snowblower that was made for the 82 series, (I think it was the model 364???), not sure if it would fit a QL or 1x8/9 series. Why do you want a 2 stage? This is the only thing that comes to mind for driving steel fence posts. It is a setup for driving a sand point (aka "cable tool rig") but a similar rig could be made to drive steel fence posts. I couldn't find the info on who originally posted it in my archives.
Roger: The best way still to drive them is with a post driver, understanding your dilema tho that could be a problem.
2nd part: I have backed up to the post and bumped them just a little with a 782 then wraped a chain around the center lift and very bottom of the post and pulled them out. All else fails take an old bumper jack and it will jack them right out!
Pops
2nd part: I have backed up to the post and bumped them just a little with a 782 then wraped a chain around the center lift and very bottom of the post and pulled them out. All else fails take an old bumper jack and it will jack them right out!
Pops
Jim,
I agree with James S. It sounds like your ACR is not working. I had the same problem with a 129. It started real hard after the overhaul. I thought it was just tight. I checked all the connections with no luck. I finally took the cam cover off and found the flyweights for the ACR were stuck in the run position. Got them loose and it has been a good starter since.
I agree with James S. It sounds like your ACR is not working. I had the same problem with a 129. It started real hard after the overhaul. I thought it was just tight. I checked all the connections with no luck. I finally took the cam cover off and found the flyweights for the ACR were stuck in the run position. Got them loose and it has been a good starter since.
rbedell
Well-known member
Roger B:
In addition to the 190-364 that Kraig mentioned, IH built this one (190-450) also. This snowblower can be used on the 1x8/9 & Q/L Series with the correct PTO Drive as well as the 82 series and beyond.
In addition to the 190-364 that Kraig mentioned, IH built this one (190-450) also. This snowblower can be used on the 1x8/9 & Q/L Series with the correct PTO Drive as well as the 82 series and beyond.
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