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Archive through October 02, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Park Rapids Mn.
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Ray L.
It started out as a Johnny Bucket.
I did nothin to it, that's the way I bought it and 3 others last week. And yes it has an electric winch with a handy dandy push button control too.
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I like this part, just in case ya forget!
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Thanks "Pops" I cranked it and it ran fine for several minutes more went fine under strain in field out back ( grass not been bushogged in 3 years) and went around yard for several minutes and it died. Sounded like it had no fire swapped plug wire with 1250 no fire and loosened bowl and almost cranked so I sprayed carb cleaner in carb and fired right up and drove it over across yard and turned off. I'll check the fuel lines even though bowl looks clear. The motor is in excellnt shape,was stored most of it's life in a warehouse and not used, has all dealership stickers and decals from 1968 when built easyest restoration I've ever done just sanded with 400 grit then 1500 taped over decals,painted with single stage paint and looks new. Lack of use as you know can also cause problems. James
 
Pops,
I hear ya what you're saying regarding the MMO. I'm not expecting any "wonderous healing" to occur to my engine. It runs OK now and doesn't burn much oil. Last Spring, I checked the compression and it indicated about 45psi, which I figured wasn't all that bad. I merely thought to add some MMO to the oil change this time, "because I could" not because I figured I needed a ring job and that it would cure all it's ailments....

Charlie,
I understand your concern about tearing up the collar with the jaws, but I don't follow the rest of your suggestion..... Problem is the fan is mounted in rubber. I put the shaft in my bench vise with the rag joint end up. I placed an appropriately-sized open end wrench above the fan and tried to tap on it to push it and the collar heldfast below it down the shaft, but the blows would just spring back. With more forceful blows, my fan hub began to distort....What am I doing wrong? Any other ideas?

RW
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Ryan,
I've never seen an OEM metal fan that had rubber between it and the shaft.
You might be able to heat the shaft up just enough to get it broke loose and not melt the rubber to bad.
A picture sure would be nice to see exactly what we're talkin about here.
 
Charlie P. Neat little contraption. I coudl use something like that to haul dirt next to the garage. What size tractor is it? And what are the other Cubs like?
 
I dont have any photos to share but I managed to finish plowing my garden over the weekend.
This is the larger of the two gardens I have, it is 67' wide by 187' long. Plowing it all one direction sure adds to the time it takes to plow it all under. 3 hours & 2 gallons of gas later I had it plowed. Than it was time to disk it flat, that only took another 2 hours, I disked it both ditections, with the furrows and across, afterwards I hooked onto the culitpactor and rolled it flat, another 45 minutes.
Well to say the least, I have had my fill of seat time plowing/disking and rolling the garden, but I was not done with the yard work yet. I still had to mow the lawn, yet another 2 hours of seat time.
Cubbing can be fun, but it can also be work, and after close to 8 hours of listening to my 12hp cub 72 roar I am defently ready for a break from all this fun.
That is untill next weekend when I know I will have to find some reason to fire up the ole gal and have more fun.

One more thing to mention.
It is possable to pull a 10" plow 7"deep in 3rd gear, lots of fun, hard to keep the furrow straight, to dangerous to try in a field crowed with others though. But WOW!! what a blast it was.
 
Cap'n Kirk -

Since we have some new folks here, perhaps you could repost your background and testing results of MMO and other additives (at the time) and what exactly folks should expect from using it. I don't think anyone here said it would fix your engine, bring world peace and help you shed 50 pounds...

I prefer the scientific method to anecdotes anyway...
 
Marlin,
It's a 104 according to the serial number.
I got 2 104's, both with creepers and spring assist and yet another 1250, sigh!
I swear they made more 1250's than any other dang tractor! They are everywhere.
I'm still waitin for my first 1250 with hydraulic lift though.

Tellya what Marlin,
I'll drop off these 2 104's and when your red one arrives, I'll come pick it up, that way you won't have to be burdened with keeping it full of diesel! DEAL!
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Got the clutch out of the 128 tonight; friction disc is shot and so is one of the spirol pins, I have no idea how I was even able to drive it like that. Anyhow, the pressure plates have quite visible wear, I'd estimate around .010". I'm gonna clean them up on the lathe at school on Wednesday, but how much can I take off before they are weakened too much? BTW, I'll be using the MSC 800 lb. spring when I put this back together.

Thanks!
 
Bryan,

What a nice invitation! I'll see if I can scrounge up some old notes and put a few paragraphs together on the magical, red, mystery lubricant. I'm sure if you drank some that 50 pounds could be shed rather quickly.
 
GRR!! School blocked this site from the schools computers
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lol. No more looking at cubs while at school haha
 
well n e ways im watching a 105 for sale, is there anything to watch out for on this particular model?
 
LONNY B. - Last fall, Veterans Day I mowed & vacuumed leaves & clippings....got the whole yard done in ONE Day with My 10 HP 72....Started about 1 PM Friday aft.....and unhooked the cart from the vac. and parked the 72 & vac at 2 AM Saturday morning....13 hours STRAIGHT....then Sunday spent about 10 more hours aerating the yard with the 72. According to the hour meter I put right at 25 hours on the tractor that weekend.... I lost track of how many gallons of gas and fill ups I made.....The 5 quart tank only runs 2 hours pulling that hard. Ohhhhh and I never put a wrench on the 72 the whole time except to replace the light switch which burnt up Saturday AM about the time I pulled into the shop. The cheap 24 yr old switch burnt to a crisp from the prolonged running. The new switch is rated 75A/24V instead of about 8A/12V.
 
Jeff, not a whole lot to watch out for on any of the Cubs but here's a few thinkgs to check:

1. Take a look at the underside for signs of leaking Hy-Tran. If it does show signs of leaking, we can help you track down where the leak is coming from so this wouldn't be a deal killer just a price dropper.
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2. More then likely the hydrostatic linkage will exhibit the normal wear causing "hydro creep" see the FAQ entry #14. More then likely it'll have some hydro creep again, it should not be a deal killer.

3. The drive shaft coupler on the flywheel will likely be quite worn and in need of replacing. There should be a mesh cover over this area which is between the engine and the dash pedistal. When this gets worn badly it starts to hammer on the driveshaft eventually causing the spirol pin on the hydro pump end of the driveshaft to fail.

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If this is in need of replacement I would highly recommend going with David Kirk's upgrade rather then the stock couple part:

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Driveshaft coupler mod part numbers:

748-3001 Arm, Coupling

722-3000 Disc

703-0204 Flange, Drive Shaft

715-3000 1/4" x 1 3/8" Spirol pin

David K., was any drilling required to substitute these parts for the original coupler?
 
Denny, take a close look at the upper left in the photo I just posted of the 105 I picked up a while back, see anything you recognize?
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KRAIG - I keep looking for it attached to the back of Your BIG tractor!
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Denny, there's a 48" Cub Cadet tiller in the way right now.
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Greetings!

I'm new to the CC world. My machine is a 1650 with dual hydaulics - mower deck and front. Lawn tires. It came with a 52 inch mower, blade and snow blower (with original manual) and wheel weights. I could use some help with a couple things. First, I've done what I can figure to do to tighten the belt that runs the mower deck. This includes adjusting the spring tensioner just inside the front ot the frame. Also, there is a small 'L' shaped piece that sticks out of the frame (sorry, no pics) opposite the spring tensioner. It has two notches in it. The only way I can get enough tension on the belt to run the 52" mower deck is by pulling this piece and clamping it with a vice grip beyond how I think it is designed. (Don't want to think about what will happen if that vice grip drops under the machine during operation.) Is it time for a new belt or should I be looking for something else. Second question: is there a list of available implements? I'm not set up for shop-based manufacture and modification, so I'm looking hitch and go implements. Specifically, I have a garden spot we are developing from rough (120ft x 90 ft.) What are my best options for working the soil (tiller or plow and disc), hauling dirt, pulling logs, removing small stumps, creating raised beds, etc. I don't mind hand labor, but as long as I have it I want to use the tractor for as many chores as possible.
 
Greetings!

In my last post I mentioned my new toy (1650, 16 hp., hydro. trans.) and my newness to the CC world. Practical question. Will this machine really move snow? The snow blower that came with this tractor is a 42 inch single stage. Is it realistic for me to think it will move northern Wisconsin (think Lake Superior Snow Belt) snow throughout the season or should I look to pick up something else for the snow. I have 550 feet of black top drive way that is one car wide most of the way and three cars wide by the time it gets to the garage. (Think 25 feet across at its widest point.) A truck and plow are not a good option because the driveway is lined closely with big pines. By February there is no place to push the snow. Last couple years we made do with a 10 hp Case, maual shift, no hydraulics (rather pathetic), and a 7 hp Toro walk behind. Also, when is is best to switch to the blade rather than the blower?

Thnx
Eric
 
Eric, welcome! We discussed snowthrowers a few weeks back here's a LINK to that discussion. Scroll to the bottom and work your way up the page.
 

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