Archive through October 17, 2006

[kmcconaughey]

Tedd, before you install the planks dip them in the wood preservative to get it deeper into the wood. You can make a "dip tank" out of heavy poly (6mil) and some 6x6 timbers. Drape the poly over the 6x6 timbers so that it forms a trough, you could build a "tank" out of 2x6 lumber too, in any case make it long enough that the trailer planks fit. Fill (well, not exactly full as it will overflow when you dip the planks) the trough with the preservative and then dip the planks into the preservative and let them soak for several minutes to allow the preservative to get deep into the wood. You'll need a rack, the traler frame could work, to place the planks on to dry. Be sure to place a piece of poly under it to catch the drips. We did this 10 or 15 years ago when we replaced the floor in my parent's horse trailer and it is still in excellent condition. We may have used linseed oil or it might have been CWF preservative I forget what it was as my father bought the stuff. Be sure to wear protective gear, safety glasses, chemical resistant gloves (nitrile gloves are good) and perhaps even a half face respirator.

Or you could just paint the wood.

 

[bmoore]

Tedd,
Most treated lumber is treated to resist damage from insects, not from water.
Water resistance is something else altogether. The end grain is the most susceptible to moisture, since wood is basically a collection of bundled straws running the length of the lumber. I have seen end grain sealed by dipping the ends in hot (melted in a double-boiler arrangement) paraffin wax, soaking in multiple applications of an oil (such as linseed oil), multiple applications of either thinned polyurethane or oil-based paint, and by spreading thinned (with mineral spirits) roofing cement. Thinning allows the finish to "wick" along and through the fibers more easily. A final top coat of un-thinned poly or paint is then usually applied.
Whatever you put on the surfaces WILL eventually wear off or through. Paint will need to be scraped/sanded for repairs. Oil or varnish doesn't have the UV protection of paint, but you will have the look of the wood. Oil is probably the easiest to maintain and repair. Linseed oil will darken with exposure to light over time, giving the wood a more amber tone. If you just brush on a new coat of linseed oil every year, you should be good for a long time.
Final note: If you use linseed oil, be sure to buy "boiled" linseed oil (available in almost any hardware store, lumber yard, or home center), as opposed to "raw" linseed oil. The "raw" will take forever to dry. Either will accumulate on the surface, so after you wipe or brush it on, you'll want to wipe of the excess to keep from having a sticky mess.
Send me an email or give me a call if you want.

 

[till]

I really like the idea of linseed oil.
I think I will use Kraig's approch on building a dip tank for the oil.

BTW Bruce,
I like your patio.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tedd, going on Bruce's thoughts on end grain you could get by with a lot less mess using a 5 gallon pail and just soak each end of the planks, then brush the linseed oil on the remaining length of the planks.

 

[bmoore]

Tedd,
When I was talking about soaking the end grain, any container would do. Kraig's bucket suggestion, an old roasting pan, John Deere hubcap, etc. The double boiler deal was only to melt the parrafin. You could just stick one end of several boards in and let them soak overnight, then flip them over to soak the other end after cutting to length. If you want to check out the process during the day, you'll have to have some suitable refreshments to drink while watching the oil soak in, and somebody to help monitor the test. If you decide to do that, give me a shout.
I assume you're talking about the picture on my profile page. That's the floor of my Cub Shed. Since the PO had neglected the leaky roof, all the 2x4 floor joists were completely rotted. I jacked up the shed and replaced it with what you see.

 

[till]

Sounds like we have a plan. I guess I will have to have Kraig over also to document the whole process. That way there is also the safety factor incase I fall in the 5 gallon bucket.

This is a sping project, so I will keep you posted. I am really liking this idea of oiled 2X6's. Should look sharp and last a long time too. I have already started to save up for the LED tail and marker lights. Once I finish the decking I will work on the tie downs.

 

[lbaker]

Right or wrong, I used Hy-Tran on my new trailer. Soakes up good and not to bad looking either!! (Are treated 1X5s) 2 gallon was worth about 4 coatings.

 

[till]

Lyle,

Maybe I can put the old Hytran I have to some use then......

 

[bmoore]

Tedd and Lyle,
The Hy-Tran coating of the wood has been making me curious. As I understand it, Hy-Tran "encapsulates" moisture, rather than repelling it like a regular oil. What happens if the Hy-Tran keeps water in contact with the wood of your deck boards? When it gets rained on, do you get the little pink globules on the surface? I think I'd experiment by putting some Hy-Tran on a couple of scrap boards similar to what you'll use for the trailer flooring and let them sit out in the weather for a while. By your Spring flooring project time, you should know if that's what you want to use. By the way, boiled linseed oil is a heck of a lot cheaper than Hy-Tran, and it's a proven product for helping (nothing lasts forever) preserve wood.

 

[lbaker]

Tedd/Bruce- Have had close to 6 inches rain in past 2 months on trailer. Yes, it does "bead" up, perhaps not as much as say Thompsons sealer. Main thing is boards have turned a lot darker.

 

[gerickson]

Here is my IH Cub hauler. It is a 1974.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Glen, nice!

 

[eford]

This is what I'm driving now and till it's in the ground.

 

[eford]

Maybe this one will work. The 'new' f250, now the 150 doesn't have to be scared!

 

[tschwartz]

My friends and I just finished repainting my trailer. It turned out a lot better than I thought it would. I tried my hand a using a paint sprayer last year on my CASE 644 loader tractor and turned out to be a disaster and had to be compleltly redone. We end up priming it with spray-can primer and then painting it Equipment Yellow with a brush!!! The paint laid out real nice and you can't see brush lines.

 

[mbounds]

Public Service Announcement. Owners of IH Model 1200 & Model 2000 Trailers Take Notice!!

In the process of replacing the old plywood decking, I discovered the both rear spring hanger brackets were hanging on the frame by only a thread and a prayer!! I had them promptly welded. I was lucky!! That trailer could have come apart with one of my Cub Cadets at highway speeds going to a show!! In the photos, look at the hanger bracket and you can see the new welds under that fresh paint.

If you own one of these trailers, Please inspect the rear hanger brackets thoroughly. Do not endanger yourself, your family, your equipment, or others on the roadways.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[bbranstetter]

Myron, Good save.

You bring up a great point too, we should all be doing a close inspection of our trailiering equipment before we embark for the coming weekend. Last week I found that the backside of my spare tire had become severely worn thru from just rubbing up against the side of the trailer. Remember to check them bearings too.

 

[mbounds]

IH Trailer Owners: While replacing the 30 year-old plywood flooring, I found that the plastic tail light housings on my Model 1200 were disintegrating and crumbling into granules! I have found a source (and now I have new tail lights) for the following for IH Model 1200 Trailers Serial Number 1280001U012001 and above built 1977 & after:

76 368-C1 Tail Light Assy (Left & Right)

76 369-C1 Lens, Tail Light-Rear (2)

76 370-C1 Lens, Tail Light-Side, Marker

I'm still looking for the Front Marker lights. I may have found the 76 366-C1 Lens, Front Marker.
The bases do not come separately, only as a complete unit. So far, aven't found any with the side "ears" for the bolts.

I do not have a Model 1200 below 12001 or a Model 2000, both built 1973-1976,(use the same tail and side marker lights) to compare with.

Anyone else have any info??

Myron B

New lights ready to install:

Uh oh!..

Out with the old...Yuk...

New lights installed with brake lights all aglow..

 

[tdrudis]

It's a little heavy but I ain't skeered.

 

[kduffy]

Well, my dad must have a bit of IH fever in him because he just brought home a new project, not a cub, but its an IH at least. My dad learned how to drive Semi-Trucks on his dads IH Emeryville semi, so he finally has found one, a 1965 International Emeryville, an old farm truck that will be his project truck. From what he has told me and what i've seen, its pretty solid, will need some body work, but the wiring hasn't been eaten by mice or anything and it all looks pretty complete, even paperwork still in the cab from when the truck was last ran...in 1988