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Archive through November 22, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
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Kraig McConaughey
Glen, send that rain to Wisconsin, it's bone dry up here! It sure would be nice to get a couple of inches of rain before the frost sets and the snow flies.

Charlie, I took these photos this morning, looks like it could be made to fit without much trouble. :eek:)

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Morning People, Got my K-161 back from being rebuilt and have some questions before I fire it up (Friday, maybe)I have to install the ignition system (new) and carb (not so new but rebuilt)
Q1 Any special oil for break in? load or no load?idle engine or rev it up and down?
Q2 Should I need to adjust the time (can't find a sight hole as per manual)Do I sent the low and high speed then adj. the govner (sp?) or is there a certain order?
I rebuilt a 455 for a 73 TA but it wasn't this complex
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Thanks and have a safe Holiday, Joe
 
Joe, this is from an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>/Kohler Service Manual:

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Any one here know the number for the plugs that go into a 782 Kohler? I forgot the bring the number with me and I need to pick some up today. Thanks.
 
Steve, I have a Kohler Owners Manual for a Magnum 18 but not for a KT17, so I compared the online Parts Lookup for a plug for a 782 and it is the same as for a 1872 which has a Magnum 18. The Magnum 18 manual that I have says it uses a Champion RV17YC.
 
That makes 2 of us Kraig! Thanks for the info!

Any suggestions on a fuel filter, other than the one at CaseIH? Their's must be made of gold, as they want too much for it. I used one from Walmart that was for a car, but I think it is clogged already and may not flow as well.
 
PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT

We're going to implement a new system to the forum.
We'll be sending out a mass email in the next few weeks to all registered members and those that bounce or do not have an email address in their profile will be purged from the ranks. We go to great lengths to protect our members from spammers and email harvesters, so there's no reason not to have an email in your profile.
Also, there are many that have not taken the time to verify their original application for membership by responding to the email sent to them when they signed up.
Those too will be purged from the data base.
So, here is the notice. PLEASE update your profile.

We would also like to thank everyone that contributes by posting or via email helping others.
We have come a long way since the move and we're going to be doing great things in the future.
 
PSA Fellas,

How do I determine if I verified my original application for membership or not?

I don't recall if I responded to the email sent back when I signed up....

I checked my profile and my email addy IS there. I simply don't want to be "purged from the system" if I can help it.

RW
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does anyone know how to replace or fix the spring inside the lever that you operate a plow with
 
Comment about side hill operation of a CC. I use LOTS of Body English when operating on side slopes. Since most of the weight is towards the back of the tractor, even with 23 deg. ag tires on the back the slope has to get REALLY steep before the rear end will slide downhill. I have a hard problem keeping the front end stuck to the slope. But my choice of front tire makes a lot of difference. My 72 has the 38 yr old GY 4.80 X 8's from the factory still mounted, they have decent tread but the rubber is VERY hard and won't grip. My 129 had almost bald 6.50 X 8's and it would slide downhill also. My 982 has almost new Carlisle Turf-Trac's or something like that on the front and it will roll over LONG before those tires will slip sideways. So if You make it a point to run on sidehills I would opt for a lower traction front tire but leave a better gripping tire on the rear. You still need the rears to grip solidly even if running uphill and downhill. I've made a trip or two down slick wet grassy slopes and fortunately lived to tell about it. You only have brakes on those two rear tires and You want all the traction You can get. YMMV, yadda-yadda.. As far as Kraig's comment about the splash lubrication of the Kohler engine they will run for quite a while but You want to make sure the oil is not low. If the oil level is to the full line, and Your tires slide before You roll over You should be able to mow for 5-10 minutes at very UNCOMFORTABLE angles of operation.
 
Robert, are you referring to the spring that makes the button pop back up on the lift arm? If so the button on top should unscrew. You WILL want to spray some PB Blaster or some other good quality penetrating oil/spray down around the button first and let it set for a while. Here's an explodedview of one for a Cub Cadet 124.

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Here's an exploded view of one that would be on a Cub Cadet 100.

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Hey guys,was wandering if anyone could help on a electrical ques.I installed a kohler 16 in my 129and its seems to be a bear"A GRIZZLY"bear,love the added hp,but its not charging,I went from a old style voltage reg. to a newer style thats mounted on the side of the blower housing,the motor was a self contained unit that was joined to a genarator on a motorhome.My question was where does the b+ wire from the regulator connect to,I connected mine to the starter switch on the switch side,Is this wrong?Does it have a bad regulator?Is there something I should have done away with on the old wiring?Shure could use some cub knowledge from anyone with an opinion. Thanks kenny.
 
This hill side mowing has me thinking..

Pucker factor, I didn't seem to find it serching the vault. Maybe it is too old to be there.

I remeber when I put new rubber in my 100 the hill side mowing went much easier. No slip sliding away. Now the village has taken away most of the slop so it is not an issue anymore.
 

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