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Greg-

The blade works but the lift rod probably won't. I had trouble getting any of my lift rods in my collection to work when I put my WF blade on my 1512 once. So I'm pretty sure the lift rod is different. It's like not even close.
 
Can anyone tell me if the snow plow from a 149 will fit a 125. I know the 149 is a wide frame and the 125 is narrow but I figured I would give it a shot. The guy only wants 30 bucks for it.
 
Brian, looking good!

Last night I did some more tweaking to the throttle cable adjustments to get Killer's RPM up to where they should be. I've never adjusted the RPM on a Kohler before so with manual in hand I went to work. I was only getting the top RPM to about 3200 I discovered that I had to reposition where the throttle cable was in the clamp. That helped now it's up to 3611 RPM according to the electronic tach that Art lent me. (I think I NEED to get one of these for my tool box.) When I adjust it to increase the high end speed, the idle will only go down to 2200 RPM. It has the OEM throttle and cable but the throttle travel doesn't seem to be enough to get a 3900 RPM high speed and a ~1000 RPM idle.
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Tonight I'm going to try moving the governor spring up to the top hole as it appears that this will give the throttle more travel.

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After I got the RPM up to ~3600 I figured that was good enough for the time being and decided to mount the PTO that I had finished rebuilding Tuesday evening. I then installed the grill frame and hood and adjusted the PTO engagement linkage. Tonight I'll hook up the wiring for the Windbreaker Cab tail light and strobe light and install the Windbreaker Cab and work some more on the RPM adjustments. Now that I have the carb adjusted, from a cold start this engine fires on the first or second revolution. Amazing!
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The old worn out K301 that was in this chassis had to be cranked before it would fire. This engine, I think due to the increased compression ratio also stops instantly, this was kind of startling to me the first few times I shut it off.
 
Joe, the subframes are different so it will not fit but for $30 SNAP IT UP ASAP!!!!! You can always trade it for the proper subframe later.
 
Kraig,

There is a small set screw on the top of the carb that adjusts the idle speed. The little lever on the throttle shaft contacts the end of the screw. Back out that screw and the idle speed will come down.
 
Steve, Thanks, but that's not the problem, I know how to adjust that.... There appears to be a limited range of throttle travel. With the throttle control cable NOT connected the throttle/governor linkage moves freely through the full range from the idle stop to full throttle. With the throttle cable connected the range is limited. If I adjust it to get full throttle the throttle shaft will not rotate all the way to the idle stop. If I adjust it so that the throttle shaft rotates to the idle stop I don't get full throttle. The OEM throttle control lever/cable (I believe it's even original to the tractor) moves freely through the full range but when I adjust where the wire in the cable is in that screw clamp (just on the right edge of the red circle in my photo below) I either get a proper idle speed but low top end or I get a 3600 top RPM but a low idle of ~2200 and the throttle does not go back to the idle stop.
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In my first post this morning, I mentioned the throttle cable clamp that I repositioned. That would be this clamp. I had to move the entire cable away from the linkage. That helped but I'm still not getting full travel on the throttle. I also rotated the breather exhaust hose fitting counterclockwise slightly as the throttle linkage was bumping up to the hose before it got to the speed adjust stop. That is not the problem plenty of clearance there now. The photo was taken before I adjusted the hose.

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Did you complete the base governor setting??? (loosen the clamp on the governor shaft, twist with pliers, etc.)???? That adjustment takes your particular linkage into account and without it your high end range could be limited.
 
Steve, I have not done any adjusting on that yet, I believe David set that when he rebuilt the engine. I could double check it to be sure.
 
Did it come with the carb installed?

If not, you need to check it.

At WOT is the clamp hitting the end of the cable sheathing??? If so, slide the cable sheath back in the clamp and then clamp the wire onto the throttle linkage further out on the wiree..might buy you some more travel.
 
Steve, David assembled the entire engine including the throttle/governor linkages, carb and air filter base plate. He also rebuilt the carb. All I had to do was mount the engine into the tractor install the S/G, install the air filter/cover and hook up the fuel tank and electrical. At WOT the clamp is NOT hitting the cable sheathing. The photo(s) were taken before I moved the cable sheathing, it was "just" hitting the sheathing as shown in the photo but I corrected that. IIRC there is NOW about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance between the cable sheathing and the clamp at WOT.
 
Kraig-
I think you may need to loosen the bolt (BLUE) and adjust the bracket (GREEN) as that stops the cable travel on the upper (WOT) end of it's travel.
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Of course, I'm going to follow that up with two very special words.... "I think".. LOL!
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Kraig-
Looking at that again, you may have to do more of this....

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(Notice I added the BLUE as well, so you'll loosen BOTH of these and slide the whole works back further. That will give you more TRAVEL.

"I think"... LOL!
 
Art, I'm aware of that adjustment too but that's not the problem. The "Speed Control Bracket" is not getting all the way to the "High Speed Stop".

BTDT, I can adjust the throttle position in the cable screw clamp as you've indicated, to get to the stop but then I don't get a low enough idle speed. Something seems to be limiting the travel, I either get top end or idle, not both.
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Kraig,

Only check the governor setting as a last resort - I'm sure I got this adjusted correctly. You're getting good advice from the other guys here...I agree, the throttle cable jacket looks a bit far extended from the clamp. This could be causing interference with the lever at the high throttle setting.
 
David, it was too far out from the clamp as shown in the photo, it's since been moved back and is now not interfering with throttle cable travel. Something in the linkage after that point is limiting throttle travel. HOWEVER with the throttle cable disconnected the throttle/governor linkage moves freely throughout the full range. When I was looking at it last night it appeared that if I were to move the right hand end of the governor spring to the top hole it would increase the throttle travel. I did not try this as I didn't want to mess up the governor sensitivity or does this end not effect that??? The throttle control lever is moving full travel in the dash slot but when running I can get either top end or idle not both, depending on where I adjust the cable in the screw clamp that Art circled in blue.
 

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