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Archive through November 07, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Art,
Can't correct you cause your not wrong. You could find those resistor's on several brands of autos in the 50's as the manufactors changed from 6V to 12V systems, Chevy used one on the "Tri-Five" models (55,56,57) that was a little smaller that what Chrysler used, but the Chrysler type is what is most commonly found/used in after market electrical system changes these days. Guess it took Chrysler longer to go to an internal resistor coil than the others, because I believe they used the resistor longer than the other brands. They all do the same thing, let the vehicle start on 12 V's and then drop the voltage to to the points to 6 V's to keep from burning them up, and the points would burn up in short order if the resistor got damaged, broken, disconnected, or otherwise was defective.

As far as using a 6V starter on a 12V's, it doesn't seem to damage the starter as long as the engine starts on the first few turns, and it will also work the other way. On my Original with the 4 cylinder Teledyne engine, I am using the stock 24V starter, and operate it off of a single 12V Lawn and Garden tractor battery (the highest cranking amp battery I could find), and as long as the battery is fully charged, it will start the engine several times during a weekend show. There is no charging system on the tractor, and the engine has a magneto for ignition power, and normally starts on the first couple of turns. It will take a bit of cranking if it has been sitting for awhile (like between shows) until the fuel pump get's enough fuel to the carb. You can manually operate the fuel pump if it has been awhile since the engine was started, but it is easy to flood the engine when doing so. I got the starter and an alternator off a used engine, and the starter is a Prestolite and the alternator (not used) is a Motorola. You don't suppose someone would have sold Uncle Sam a 12V system and just claimed it was 24V do you????
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Shoot!

We had early snow in the northeast a week and a half ago and I didn't see any pictures or mentions of Cubs at work.
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I had 3 inches, could have had 6, except is was melting too fast.

It was still October, two months early. All the trees had leaves. My Cleveland Pear tree still had all green leaves.

Mass. had up to 27", but apparently no Cubs were helping with the cleanup.
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PAUL, ART - Actually, a 6V starter has heavier wire in the windings & coils than a 12V starter, to handle the higher amperage going thru them. So a 6V starter run with a 12V battery actually lasts longer or better than it does when used with a 6V battery.

The only things I've heard bad about a 6V starter used with 12V battery is that the starter drive or Bendix hits so hard they may break, and a few people have suffered broken gear teeth on their ring gears.
 
Paul-
That's interesting info, thanks for the background.

Don-
Oh yeah, the #450 is ready, but it's all falling EAST of us!!!

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Tristan, I agree the letter series and then the 1x66/68/86's are my favorites, I also like the newer ones right before Case bought IH (or whatever happened). Like this 5488:

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Guys with the snow: Its a nice near 65 here today, gettin some last minute wood cut up and drug up thanks to the 1466 mini. its been working extra hard lately, Im very pleased with it. Im hoping we get enough snow this winter to give it a good break in plowing snow once I get my off topic blade fixed, Ive got some grading and dozing that needs to be done before the ground starts freezing too.

Have a great evening everyone!
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Charlie - Just think of the tractor Glen posted the pic of as a "982 on Steroids".

Man, hard to believe the great 5X88's are all 26 to 30 yrs old now.
 
Got "Dufus", my 129 that had not run in a number of years going on Monday. Have a question about "Ginger", my 104. With the clutch pushed in the gears will clash unless you shut down and then change gears. This does not happen when first starting up but when you place gear lever in neutral and then try to re-engage a gear. I pulled grille housing and moved engine forward to check if driveshaft was binding in pilot bearing, it wasn't, so I put some grease on inside of pilot bearing and end of driveshaft and put engine back and grille housing back on. I haven't been able to recheck yet. If this has no effect what is the next step? Clutch is in adjustment, the best I can tell and the brake works ok. All other clutch components are new and undamaged.
 
Doug,
Make sure the pressure plates are not stuck to the clutch disc. With the engine off lock the pedal down and see if the pressure plates are free. If the tractor has set for a while, moisture can cause even new clutch parts to rust enough to stick the pressure plates to the disc. If they are free, the only other thing to cause that (if everything is adjusted correctly) is for the engine to be cocked/turned enough to bind the driveshaft in the pilot bearing. There is enough play in the engine mounting holes for this to happen the last time the engine was removed/reinstalled.
 
Angel didn't get any snow pictures because five minutes after I left the whole town's power went out. So the kitties and her snuggled under the blankets. Then she got a migraine so bad that she spent today in bed. The sun did come out and it pretty much melted almost all the snow. One of the reasons that I am not looking forward to cold weather is because somehow between all the steroids that I've been given in the past couple of months and other meds my system is messed up pretty good. Some days the pain is worse than others. I go back in December for more tests. Even working on the Cub Cadets has become somewhat of a chore lately. One thing I am going to try and do is convert the 125's snowthrower over to 42" from 36". Every little bit more width helps with less time outside.

Ya'all take care.
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