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Archive through November 07, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bnolte

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2006
Messages
603
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Bruce Nolte
Ed, if the PTO is pretty well hopeless, you might be able to get it off by taking the front pieces out and accessing the end of the crankshaft. The body of the PTO in front of the clutch disk rides on a large ball bearing pressed onto the crankshaft, and the setscrews dig into a ring just behind the bearing, which is set into the inner race of the bearing. If you have a reinforced gear puller, you might be able to just drag the whole thing off that way, though you will probably leave some marks in the crank, and possibly ruin the bearing. You might want to try this link as well:
http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/misctips.htm#ptoclutch
 
Kyle -

Thank you, Mr. Wizard
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Us science geeks gotta stick together!
 
1250 hydrostat drive is leaking from the top plugs on the pump. I am thinking the only way to know what is going on is to take it out and completely apart. I took off the fluid filter and no oil came out. I took off the tube from the reservoir to the pump and the unit emptied. Any thoughts as to what it might be?
 
Here is a Wikipedia definition.
"Calcium chloride tastes extremely salty and is used an ingredient in some foods, especially pickles, to give a salty taste while not increasing the food's sodium content."

I stand corrected, I put pickle juice in my tires.

Now that's funny..... I don't care who you are.
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Brian,
Growing up on the west coast I had to get up at 5am to watch Mr. Wizard on cable. I never missed a show.
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Alright Larry The Cable Guy... Snicker Glen. Charlie, I'll look into the paint, and that search feature didnt help alot, but I did find a whole heck of alot of funny "warninig" stickers though.
 
Nate, be very proud of your 782D. You have done a wonderful job. They are spendy little buggers to put back together though aren't they? I got my decals from Maple Hunter and loved em. Also, run a second ground from the - side of the battery to the lift loop on your motor. It will make a big difference. Good job and it's OK to just stand there and stare at that beauty.
 
Thanks a lot Glen. I appreciate the advice. I have both sides of the motor grounded to the frame and the 1 - wire ran to the left side of the frame, but where do you say i should put the second wire?

What is and where is the "lift loop"? What will it help with?

Also, i have installed an electric fan. It works GREAT and doesn't use much juice. It was a perfect fit. Loks stock.

Thanks again!
 
Charlie my machinist brother talked me out of using his torch on it. looks like a saw. I am just amazed and the hardness of those set screws.
 
I dunno if anyone else has used these carbide coolant bits, but I think they are great. I stick some wax on the outlet holes, fill it up with coolant and start drilling. The wax melts and the coolant runs down the bit at a slow steady rate and makes life easy for me.
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Dad knows I like old mowers, have had and still have too many. Only ever had 1 Cub Cadet though. Until yesterday...went to see my father and came home with this...
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I'm not to familar with Cub Cadets but this one appears to be all there. And I wondering if this is worth bringing back from near dead? The tractor would been buried up to the axles in soft ground if it hadn't been for the mower deck being on. Even so the spindles turn easily and there is only a small patch required on the left outer edge of the deck. I turned the pulley on the Delco, and the crank moves. Paper wasps have built nests all over this, even in the air cleaner. The trans is in neutral but won't go into any gear. Surprisingly enough 3 of 4 tires still had air in them and the 4th has held up for a day and 1/2 now. The all have severe dry rot though and will need to be replaced. Lastly the bungy was just to keep the hood from lifting during transport. I'm looking for any feedback on what I have. If I have posted this in the wrong forum please help me get where I need to be. Thanks, Tim
 
Stan. That looks awsome. If look back at plow day 10. There was a tandem rear axle cub cadet there. You really won't need to put brakes on ur's. Mine has mowed the lawn everyday since I built it and turns on a dime. I've got a little 14 hp kohler on mine and 2 drive axles and with seperate hydro pumps.
 
Thomas P:

First, welcome to the forum
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I assume your question is about the Hydro Check Valves leaking.
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If so, valve replacememt (new or good used) is necessary.
 
Stan,
Neat project. The "pull" ram looks interesting on the bed mechanism.

Nate,
Looks great. Almost a shame to put standard decals on it. What are the red and blue covered switches?
 
Ed H., I was looking for some pictures of how I have removed difficult front PTO's but seemed to have lost them. I've posted them here in the past but it's been a long time. Anyway, the short of it is to place a large bearing puller in the v-belt groves. (The pullers are rather pricey but can be rented.) I then place bolts that are just long enough to fit between the bearing puller and the block. As you unscrew the nuts off the bolts it will push the bearing separator and PTO away from the engine. (Coupler nuts make the process go a lot faster.) I've pushed the PTO and bearing off without taking out any of the screws.

I think the standard method suggested on the forum is to wrap a chain around the PTO and whip the chain until it comes off. Someone with some experience with this method can probably describe that procedure in more detail.

Hope this helps.
 
Nate: Beautiful job got the old man excited! How many clear coats did you put on? Great Story and the hard work shows that it has paid off!

Timothy: That is what I defiantly call a project tractor, can it be salvage? Yes, but it all depends on you. Whenever anybody ask me about restoring anything I simply state it boils done to 3 things. Time, Money, Knowledge.

Time: it is not going to happen over night and many get bored with their projects before they are done. Plan it in small steps it helps!

Money: Life and family comes first. Shop smart and have a budget in mind it sucks whne you may have to wait awhile to get the rat hole built back up!

Knowledge: The esiest part of restoring plus all set aside I think is the funnest part of it. Great forum's help, books are a must, and getting in there and doing it is the only way. Getting an older person or somebody familiar with your project to help whelp It's Priceless!

Good luck Pops.
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Tim P.
Go for it! Check the serial number, you might have a diamond in the rough.
And Hey! At least it's not orange!
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Timothy P., welcome to the forum! What you have there is the first model Cub Cadet, we call them Originals. It is restorable but I think Ben summed it up best.

Nate, WOW, that is one beautiful tractor! The blue engine block really sets it off nicely. You should be very proud of your work on it. I like the story behind it too.
 

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