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Archive through December 08, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Well guys I`am out in my shop all day and hope to pull the drive shaft to see what it might need . I hope I have all the parts here I might need to have it running at days end. We have a xmas supper party to go to tonight so I can miss that (free Food lol).
Lets see what I find. Thanks Frank for the info. I will be now able to use the drive shaft spring compressor tool I made. I have two different styles and never used them. should be a blast.
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I have to say Thanks Frank C for the taper pins so I cold repair my slopy steering. The 102 and I thank you... The 102 has tight steering again. I must say this worked slick !
 
Frank - hey thanks for the lead. I hadn't kept up with the Sandbox posts. I'm really surprised at ole Tom H tho, leaving his new 128 out in the snow. He just aughta take better care. Now Marty's 128, that is a sweet looking unit. Guess there is just something about that red stripe in the decal.

Dennis - I sure agree about the T/O bearing making noise before it completely fails. But that noise isn't just the bearing, it's the friction and pressure from the lever twisting the bearing and wearing the driveshaft. A noisy clutch should get attention, but to many owners just get earplugs. Still say your lucky with yours, and could be you know how to destroy them so you take care in how you use them.

Don T - I hope you made a typo, and you "can't" miss the Christmas supper party. Have some punkin' pie for me (with whipped cream).
 
Harry Mister hydro

I`am know for my typos lol. This picture tells it all . slick to do and nice and tight steering I have on the 102 now.

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Some PO Mods are a good thing I think. I hope you all like the time it takes me to post pictures .

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Quite the cover up lol.
 
HARRY - Yes, clutches are one of those things you should, "Do as I SAY and DO NOW, NOT as I DID!" ;-) Everything you need to know about proper care & use of a CC clutches is in the CC Operator's manual. Keep them adjusted, don't ride the clutch, only put your foot on the pedal when you need to stop or change directions. IH took care of everything else... except putting the correct orientation of the anti-rattle springs on the service manual.

On the anti-rattle spings, when installed per the manual, the ends that go over the OD of the friction disk have very little force. When you install the springs on the roll pins first, then slide the friction disk onto the roll pins, you trap the springs, yes, but the ends also have a LOT more force so they resist centrifugal force and don't unhook themselves from the friction disk. Installed per the manual, they come off in meer seconds. BT-DT.

Still not agreeing on the T/O bearing wearing the drive shaft. Yes, the bearing moves up & down the shaft... sliding what? Maybe a half inch? The inner race should ALWYS be turning with the driveshaft. The whole T/O bearing will be turning, so for a brief instant when you push the clutch pedal down the outer shield over the bearing will be rotating when it contacts the T/O lever. But if your T/O bearing is good, the outer shield should stop instantly and no wear occurs after that. Yhat's why they use a T/O BEARING in the first place! CC clutch is no different than ANY other clutch in that manner.

I don't think the newer T/O bearings your local CC dealer sells are as good as they were decades ago. I know where there's a mountain of T/O bearings made by IH's original supplier that I'm going to use when I replace the teaser spring in my 72 this winter. I don't think I replaced the teaser spring 3-4 yrs ago when I went back to the stock clutch, maybe I did, but it's broke... clutch is "grabby", so I get to repair it again! Only takes an hour or two.

Well, I've got 2-3 inches of snow to clean off the driveway, then off to work! Not using a CC to push snow, but's it's IH and a GD! ;-)
 
Well I found some ware on the clutch release lever and the teaser spring is small and weak . Did I read some where about adding a washer to help the spring last longer. Just how much weld should I add to the lever. I don`t have a new replacement ?

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wore real thin on the one edge !
 
Amy, I do not have dimensions but the plate is slightly wider than the two mounting bolts. It's just an L shaped part If I had to guess I'd say it's 6" wide and 7" long with a bend making the 7" length into a 5"x2" L. Unless you're going for a 100 point Resto I'd say you can get by just winging it and making a part that will bolt on. 1/8" thick might be a bit on the heavy side, 16 gauge should be enough, but then.
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DON - Adding the washer is ONLY for the pressure spring if it's fatiqued and collapsed some. Teaser spring is a REPLACE Only item.

I would not try to weld that lever, if you get just a bit more weld on one side than the other, you WILL have the lever contacting only one side of the bearing and making the lever try to twist in it's bracket. As long as there's no holes worn in the raised areas that are supposed to contact the T/O bearing, they're good to run a while longer. That gives Charlie time to get back in business and get you some parts, or to find a different source.
 
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