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Archive through November 06, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Thomas P: Lucky you...that busted cam would have made a big mess out of a fresh rebuild!

Yes sir, it's time for a new cam, and at the top of this page there are several vendors that can get you what you need. Also, you can get a new cam from your local Cub Cadet dealer, or any Kohler engine dealer also.
 
Craig,
Thanks for the feedback on the scraper for the QA-42A.
 
CRAIG, Frank M. - Wyatt's pulled a 1-bottom pull plow with His 169 before. I think He posted pic's of it here.
 
Dale Merkle "It's kinda funny/sad that someone ask a question again about using a sleeve hitch and tiller gearbox plate together. The funny part is the same question was ask when I post the picture a few years ago."


I just want to clarify this statement. For the record it was not me that asked the question previously. The picture was posted for someone else while I was lurking. At that Time I had just gotten my first cub and a place to use it.

I saved your picture for the fact that I thought maybe some day I would like to use that idea but I was not ready/able to yet.

I never would have asked if I could have made out the details a little better in the original photo. And the new photos that were posted were very helpful to me and I thank your for your assistance.

It was very helpful to me and I'm sure some others. It is also helpful to the community to revisit topics every now and then, and we are lucky to have experienced people such as yourself who have the patience to take the time to make a post to help someone out.
 
Please help. Cub Cadet 1450. Hydrostatic. Cutting along just fine Saturday (about an hour in) when the tractor sputtered and coasted to a stop. Engine on I pulled the lever into neutral and immediately the tractor went into reverse at speed. Brake had little effect so I turned off the ignition. Scared me as I could have been somewhere else on the lawn. Foolishly I started up again—neutral was neutral. I pushed the lever to forward and tractor went forward about ten feet and stopped. Back to neutral and once again went immediately into reverse beyond what the throttle indicated. Brake did not stop tractor. I shut off engine. I had to get it back to cover so I started again in reverse this time and easily got back to the garage. I parked it and it hasn’t been touched. I checked the manual and see nothing. Anyone have this problem? Is it possible that I need to make an adjustment of some kind and not need a new transmission? Fluids are as they should be. I don’t know where to look to even advise a dealer. Any help?
 
Gary S.
Glad to see you got posting figured out. ;-P

Not ever having that problem happen to me, I would suggest popping the tunnel cover off and see if anything looks broke, or maybe the spring came off the brake linkage.
Here's a page that addresses that issue.
http://cubfaq.com/qlbrakesprings.html

Then you might just have a roll pin break too.
You might also try the operation neutral adjust thing too.
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html

Take a look around and see whay you can find and let us know.
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Anybody got any reccomendtations on how to seat a stubborn Carlisle AG tire? I put em on in early oct. on my "169" and the one bead wont seat on one side in one small spot, but the tire goes soft really fast, and I'm about sick of pumping up constantly... Glen
 
Glen C.
First you gotta make sure that the bead is clean and smooth. Or you might have a bad spot on the tire in that spot. Mark the spot and remove the tire to make sure.
If the tire looks ok, try some bead sealer.
I have in a pinch used white teflon pipe dope around the wheel rim.
Then if all else fails, slap a tube in that sucker and forget it!
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Been seein alot of red cubs lately... Like this "160", and a completely IH red 169 on 'bay the other day...
43959.jpg

43960.jpg
 
Glen,
Pop the bead and grease the bead with wheel bearing grease. That should seal it.
 
Finished the rear weight bracket today. I was debating whether to add an additional bracket for support. I wanted to keep the bracket out of the way of the hitch and the 3 point. I think I will just run it like this and periodically check the bolts for stress, loosening, etc.

New color for the new weights.
43973.jpg

Painted bracket.
43974.jpg

Finshed product.
43975.jpg

43976.jpg

I can remove the Walmart weights and still use the hitch.
43977.jpg
 
I just added up the weight I have in my head. I have quite a bit of weight in the rear now. I have 75 lbs of "salt water" in each rear tire. I have 50 lbs of Walmart weights in the center of each tire. I have 100 lbs on the hitch. I have 200 lbs on the rear weight bracket. And finally 200 ish lbs in the seat. That's 750 lbs in the rear. Maybe now I can move the hitch of the boat around with the loader and not have the rear tires spin out on the lawn.
 
That weight rack looks like just what I need. What size bar did you make it out of? What do the weights weigh?

I am getting ready to set up my snowblower and need some weight in the back as well as chains.

Thanks

Zimm
 
I miss the Red Barron that was one sweet machine!. Got to love them Rogue <font color="ff0000">Red</font> tractors.
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Did Randy use a 12 horse flywheel and blower housing on his "16"??
 
Craig "E",
I'd say you <u>could</u> use a dual tire Cub Cadet to pull that plow. You won't have a furrow issue.
 

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